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My angle finder came with the TA and it's in 1 deg incriments. Put the car up, with the weight on the suspension. Center the angle finder on the bottom side of the driveshaft, there's your baseline angle. Place the angle finder on the bottom TA mounting plate and the angle should be the same, if you want some negative, turn the diff nose down.
My angle finder came with the TA and it's in 1 deg incriments. Put the car up, with the weight on the suspension. Center the angle finder on the bottom side of the driveshaft, there's your baseline angle. Place the angle finder on the bottom TA mounting plate and the angle should be the same, if you want some negative, turn the diff nose down.
Right on!
Some sponsors (the ones who sell torque arms) sell the magnetic protractors individually. But harbor freight and other hardware stores usually have them. I'd not pay more than 4.99 for one, but if you can't find em cheaper.. oh well
My angle finder came with the TA and it's in 1 deg incriments. Put the car up, with the weight on the suspension. Center the angle finder on the bottom side of the driveshaft, there's your baseline angle. Place the angle finder on the bottom TA mounting plate and the angle should be the same, if you want some negative, turn the diff nose down.
what difference does having the suspension loaded have? i would think none otherwise every bump would cause a bind.
what difference does having the suspension loaded have? i would think none otherwise every bump would cause a bind.
This is a little beyond my realm, but you're part right... the torque arm *should* maintain the pinion angle through the range of suspension travel, but... at full drop, pinion angle is likely to be affected because the torque arm doesnt precisely follow the driveshaft. since most cars spend more time at ride height than at full droop, i feel that its best to adjust pinion angle at ride height. just my .02
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