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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 11:47 PM
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Default Subframe welding

Can I use an arc welder to weld on my sfc's? I got bmr tubulars.

My grandpa has this old 20 year old arc welder that still works good.

Would much rather just do it myself with this welder than pay someone 10o or more dollars to do it....and half the people will mess up your car.

If so....any suggestions on what type of rod to use...etc etc?

thanks
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 12:06 AM
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I dont think you can, me and my dad went out and bought a MIG welder just for this job and we have a arc welder.
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 02:09 AM
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Anyone else?....I cant seem to find a strait answer....some people say you can and some say you cant.

thanks
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 06:00 AM
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You could probably do it. I used a mig on mine. One of the easier welds I used a stick welder with a 7014 rod. As long as you keep the heat closer to the thick steel of the sfc.
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 12:53 PM
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UltraZLS1, there is no real difference, strength wise, between wire and stick welding. GMAW (gas shielded wire) produces a cleaner weld, with no spatter, FCAW (flux core wire), and SMAW ("stick") produces slag and has spatter.
A E-6013, E-7014, or E7018 electrode will do you fine. Make sure the area to be welded is clean and free of paint. You can get some anti-spatter spray, but it is not needed, a scraper will remove spatter. Protect wiring and tubing with a shield. By the way, I am a CWI (Certified Welding Inspector), and have been playing with metals and welding for 21 years. Fun job, I am now a structural building inspector.
I hope this helps,
ATAK, Inc.
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 01:16 PM
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Thanks a lot!

I have also heard I should be careful with the heat caused by the arc welding is it might melt through the thin metal I will be welding.

Is this true?

Should I just be careful and do like 1 inch at a time?

thanks again
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 04:23 PM
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As long as it is not sheet metal you should be fine. Best bet is to get some scrap metal the same thickness as what you will be welding, and set up the scrap pieces the same as the on-car connections, and do soome practice beads. Try and do it in the same position as you will on the car to give you a feel as to what it will take to do the job. take your time, and yes, do short passes, you don't want to catch the interior on fire either!!! Also, practice to get the welding machine dialed in. The arc should have a consistant sound, you should not be "cratering" the base metal, and the weld profile should be consistant, from slightly concave to slightly convex.
Most important of all... PRACTICE!!!
Tom
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 05:03 PM
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I had a muffler shop weld mine in for $50. It's real straightforward, I think it would be hard to mess up IMHO.
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by UltraZLS1

I have also heard I should be careful with the heat caused by the arc welding is it might melt through the thin metal I will be welding.

Is this true?
What I did was look closely at the molten puddle of the welding rod, you need to keep it closer to the sfc, since it's about 3/16" thick, and just move close enough to the frame section to make the puddle catch the frame.
On a section where you can see the other side of it you will see the penetration.
BTW the frame metal is 16 gauge, thats pretty thin. Some areas that need to be welded are doubled up (two 16 gauge pieces spot welded together) this sucks up some heat.
If you blow through it's going to suck to say the least.
This is why I got a friend to finish it off with a mig.
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ATAK, Inc.
UltraZLS1, there is no real difference, strength wise, between wire and stick welding. GMAW (gas shielded wire) produces a cleaner weld, with no spatter, FCAW (flux core wire), and SMAW ("stick") produces slag and has spatter.
A E-6013, E-7014, or E7018 electrode will do you fine. Make sure the area to be welded is clean and free of paint. You can get some anti-spatter spray, but it is not needed, a scraper will remove spatter. Protect wiring and tubing with a shield. By the way, I am a CWI (Certified Welding Inspector), and have been playing with metals and welding for 21 years. Fun job, I am now a structural building inspector.
I hope this helps,
ATAK, Inc.
Damn LOTS OF GOOD info there, I would only recommend using a stick if you can stick weld very good. My choice is TIG and MIG because I am good at both, I am downright shitty at stick and never really liked it, but it makes a strong as hell ugly repair on rust trailers and hitches
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