Judd

iTrader: (1)

I'm running a cheapy set-up.

Front
L.G. Motorsports relocation brackets
Stock F-Body calipers
Nappa C5 replacement rotors
Hawk HT 10 pads
Motul RBF600 fluid
Cheapy brake ducting

Rear
Stock except for fluid and Hawk HP Plus pads.

I'm very happy with the performance of the relocation brackets considering their cost. I bought the brackets used {I think I paid 125$ for them}, paid around 50 bucks for a couple of new C5 rotors from Nappa and I flush the brake system before each event. I have less than 100 bucks in the brake ducting. Besides pads and rotors {nice cheap rotors} which are consumables I have something like 200-250$ in my brake upgrade. For that 200 odd dollars and a set of Kumho 700 Ecstas {not the stickiest DOT for sure} I get 0-60 braking in the 100ft range and a decent upgrade in fade resistance. I won a 0-60-0 event sponsored by SSBC and Year One. I beat a Viper and a Lancer Evo, both of which had brake upgrades and I'm pretty sure both had "good" rubber on them. BTW, I was using Hawk HP Plus pads on the front and stock pads on the rear, all other specs were the same as above at that event.

I have about six 20 minute lapping sessions out at Road Atlanta and while I do get some brake fade by the end of a session with the HT10/HP Plus pad set-up but I do scoot around that track fairly well {usually one of the faster cars in my group}. I could improve things with better pads {dedicated serious race pad} and improved ducting {sealing the hose input to the rotor maybe?}and I still wouldn't have alot of monetary outlay into the braking system. I know there are much better brake upgrades out there but unless you are really serious about lapping days, really racing or your doing some of the open road type stuff, you really can't go wrong buying a set of brackets for cheap and keeping the stock calipers. The only thing I'm seriously considering changing right now are the pads and swapping to Castrol SRF fluid.

TOMTOM

Hey Guys Be Careful With All Your Brake Upgrades. Short Of Red Devil Titanium Rotors The Only Way To Truly Improve You Stopping Power Is To Increase Your Rotor Diameter Which Increases Your Front End, Unsprung Weight And Rolling Inertia. A Stock Front Rotor Weighs In At 14.5 Pounds. There Is Nothing Lighter. The Eradispeed 2pc Rotor Comes At 16.5 Pounds, And A Stock C5 Rotor Comes In At 27 Pounds. All The Claims Of Better Stopping After Upgrades Is Highly Subjective. I Doubt That Any Of The Claims Would Stand To Hard Data Testing. Gm Gave Us A Pretty Good Set Of Brakes. Don't Screw It Up

Black Plague

iTrader: (13)

Brake Manufacturer: (stock PBR )
Caliper/Piston Number: (F-body PBR Painted RED with caliper paint & WS6 decals)
Rotor Manufacturer: (Rotorworks)
Rotor Type: ( Slotted,Drilled,Black plated hubs & vents )
Rotor Dimensions: (Stock )
Wheel/Tire Size: (17x9 02' WS6 Rims. P275 40 ZR 17)
Tire make/model: (Stock WS6 Goodyer Eagle) Brake Line: ( Goodrich Stainless.)
Brake Fluid: (ATE Superblue)
Brake Pads: (New OE replacement pads) ( PPC Brake duct kit! ) Wow this setup works awesome! I love it.

Judd

iTrader: (1)

Untill you decide to get out on the track and actually make a few laps. Then they,,, well um, to put it bluntly, they sorta suck. But yea,,, if your dwardling around town they do work pretty well.

As far as claims that would stand up to hard data,,,,,,, how's 100ft stops from 60mph on less than great tarmac with cold tires and pads and a much better resistance to fade and warping sound? Sounds better than stock to me.

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

Brake Manufacturer: Stock
Calipers: Stock
Rotor Manufacturer: GM Blanks
Rotor Type: GM Blanks
Rotor Dimensions: Stock
Wheel/Tire Size: 16x8 wheels 245/50-16 tires
Tire make/model: Kumho 711's
Brake Line: Earls Stainless
Brake Fluid: ATE Super Blue
Brake Pads: Hawk HPS (all around)

IMHO upgrading the brakes first before anything else was a very wise decision. The difference in pedal feel and stopping power is noticable and I've been given compliments from others that have driven the car about how good my pedal feel is.

jimbo98z

iTrader: (3)

Brake Manufacturer: GM Stock
Caliper/Piston Number: GM Stock
Rotor Manufacturer: Brembo
Rotor Type: Drilled and Slotted
Rotor Dimensions: Stock Size
Wheel/Tire Size: 275/40/17 17"x9.5"
Tire make/model: BFG G-Force Sport
Brake Line: Stainless (forgot brand)
Brake Fluid: ATE Blue
Brake Pads: Hawk HPS

Works really well for the street and strip. Dust is a little high, but I clean my car pretty often so it's not a big deal.

PipesTA

iTrader: (7)

Front:

Caliper - Wilwood 6 Piston
Rotor - Wilwood Slotted/crossdrilled
Pad - Wilwood
Line - Wilwood SS
Wheel - HP Evo 19x8.5
Tire - Dunlop Direzza 245/35/19

Rear:

Caliper - Stock
Rotor - iRotor Slotted/Cross Drilled
Pad - Hawk HPS
Line - Stock
Wheel - HP Evo 19x9.5
Tire - Dunlop Direzza 275/30/19

Definate improvement over the stock LT1 brakes. The car stops straight, and has a ton of braking power. Next up is a proportioning valve to even out the braking power. Two thumbs up!

tuske427

iTrader: (1)

Brake Manufacturer: Wilwood
Caliper/Piston Number: Dynalite
Rotor Manufacturer: Wilwood
Rotor Type: vented
Rotor Dimensions: Stock Size
Wheel/Tire Size: 255/50zr16
Tire make/model: Toyo RA 1
Brake Line: Stainless (forgot brand)
Brake Fluid: PBR
Brake Pads: Wilwood

These are worlds better than the stockers, but, my car is a third gen so it's understandable as to why I say this. With these brakes and tires- they don't lock up on the highway. It's like having ABS...

Everything has been great until recently where I'm getting a persistent (metal to metal) squeal from the rear. I've taken them apart, cleaned them and installed brake silencer on the back of the pads, and the sound went away for 3 days and now it's back. Still not sure what it is. No obvious grooves , either. I've ordered new pads, hopefully that'll solve it.

Prerun4fun13

iTrader: (6)

Are these rotors a waste of money or are they decent?

lt197formula

iTrader: (6)

Front

Brake Manufacturer: Thunder Racing
Caliper/Piston Number: Stock F-body painted red
Rotor Manufacturer: PowerSlot
Rotor Type: Dimpled, slotted and vented
Rotor Dimensions: Stock
Wheel/Tire Size: Zr1 17x9.5 - 275/40/17
Tire make/model: Yokohoma ES100
Brake Line: Earl's stainless steel brake lines
Brake Fluid: GM Delco Supreme II Dot 3
Brake Pads: Hawk HPS

Rear

Brake Manufacturer: Thunder Racing
Caliper/Piston Number: Stock F-body painted red
Rotor Manufacturer: PowerSlot
Rotor Type: Dimpled, slotted and vented
Rotor Dimensions: Stock
Wheel/Tire Size: Zr1 17x11 - 315/35/17
Tire make/model: Nitto Nt55r
Brake Line: Earl's stainless steel brake lines
Brake Fluid: GM Delco Supreme II Dot 3
Brake Pads: Hawk HPS

Only had them for about a month so far and what a difference over stock 104k mile Lt1 brakes. Much better stopping power, dust is reduced, and brake fade lessened very noticeably. Overall I was extremely pleased for only spending $550 and shipping.

02silvaZ

iTrader: (12)

Brake Manufacturer: stock
Caliper/Piston Number: stock f-body
Rotor Manufacturer: rotoworks
Rotor Type: drilled and slotted
Rotor Dimensions: stock
Wheel/Tire Size: 16x8, 245/50-16
Tire make/model: Kumho Ecsta 711
Brake Line: steel braided
Brake Fluid: castrol gt-lma
Pads: GM Performance Parts Durastop Ceramics front and rear

excellent perofrmance for the stock size, car stops on a dime time after time
i definitely recommend for anyone on a budget

LTLRDSS

iTrader: (2)

brake manufacture: stock
caliper/piston#: f body/2
rotor manufacture: delco
rotor type: drilled and sloted
rotor dimention: stock
wheel/tire size: f body zr1's/ cant remember off the top
tire make/model: yokohoma/ cant remember off the top
brake line: stock
brack fluid: the purple/blueish race fluid
pads: delco

Looks awesome and you can defiantly feel a difference over stock

Reaper1278

Am I gonna need to grab a new rear end? Are there conversions to take out the drums and replace with rotors? This is about the ONLY thing the car does NOT have .

Smokin00WS6

iTrader: (4)

Brake Manufacturer: (stock, WS6 GM)
Caliper/Piston Number: (F-body)
Rotor Manufacturer: (Sure Stop bought at Speed Inc.)
Rotor Type: (Slotted/Drilled)
Rotor Dimensions: (Stock)
Wheel/Tire Size: WS6 Wheels 275 40 17
Tire make/model: Good Year GS D3's
Brake Line: Stock
Brake Fluid: GM
Brake Pads: Hawk Performance Brake Pads
HPS - High Performance Street Hawk Performance HPS

First off the Tires are amazing, I will buy another set or pair when needed of the GS D3's. Second, If you just are doing a brake change and dont want to spend an arm and leg for brakes which really are important, I really suggest going to LS1speed.com (speed inc. a sponser) and look at their Sure Stop rotors. They perform so much better than stock. No warping after 15 k miles. Doesnt wear the pads, this combo I have hawk pads and sure stops, they dont make barely any brake dust. Very Very satisfied. Maybe one day I will have to to a whole system overhaul but for now the braking has improved significantly. A++++ Very satisfied.

csteingraber

iTrader: (1)

Stock wheels, tires. Added Performance Friction pads from local store (in stock) Very noticeable improvement over old ones. Oh and new cheapo Valucraft? rotors -like $50 or less. more sensetive, noticeably quicker stopping and dont fade nearly as much when driving aggressively. Only time i'm not too happy is from very high speed stops (90+mph) they don't seem to want to grab as hard as i wish. maybe because of gasses - maybe slotted rotors would help. soon i'm gonna get stainless lines and new fluid.

By the way, one setup i haven't seen mentioned yet is the C6 Z06 brake upgrade -6piston 14inch front, 4 piston 13.4inch rears? for like $2k
seems like the biggest,best for the $$.

If i ever upgrade id get these and some 18x9or10 hypersilver C6 Z06 Wheels

1fast01

iTrader: (4)

And what about Aerospace Components Pro-Street brake kits??? Just got mine in; billet aluminum, 2-piece drilled/slotted rotors, 4-piston calipers...what more do you want??? all for under 1g (front kit only) rear is separate.

chicane

What else would I want ?? A rotor larger than a 0.81"... for starters.

AC makes a great product... for something that will never see the street. They are completly inadequate for even light street operation. It would be a great set-up for something that was rarely street driven with pizza cutters and sans sway bar... only to do a 1320. They were engineered and designed for a strip car to shed weight and have just enough braking power to slow it down before the sand box on the big end. Somehow, the tag of "Pro-Street" made it onto that kit and people, like yourself, think that it is a street worthy system.

BIG mistake. Huge...

Race car parts are for race cars. Street car parts are for street cars... Please... and for God's sake, dont get them confused with each other. By changing out to that kit... you actually lost more braking power (and unsprung weight, which is a good thing) than the trade off was worth.

1fast01

iTrader: (4)

Well Chicane...those were my goals exactly strip & some weekend cruising as this is not my daily driver. Plus who the hell needs extra weight in the front the car anyways unsprung or not? These cars are heavy as hell & will always benefit from weight reduction. What are you going to tell me next...that an iron block is the "best choice" for my T/A

chicane

Well, let me put it to you this way genius. Maybe if you would have included the information that was asked for by the topic starter... you wouldnt have had your sensative little feelings hurt. So lets get back to the topic at hand...


What about them ?? What are you going to use them for ?? They seem a little (understated) too light for a street chassis. Care to explain ?? How do they work ?? How do you like them ?? What other modifications have you had to proform to get them to work ?? What do you feel is their strong point to which one would consider this a valid consideration for their chassis ?? Have you any past experience with this system or similar systems from this manufacturer ?? In other words... dont come back here with an asshat attitude because you left out the pertinent information that this thread was asking for to begin with.



On another note... what extra sprung or unsprung weight are you refering to again ?? I went from an OE stock 11.75" four piston front system to a 14.25" six piston system and actually lost a little more than 1.75 pounds per corner. So what was your point again ??

The braking dynamics and physics of a chassis that is "heavy as hell" will always net a gain in performance from a larger rotor package. The rotor is the heat sync of a mechanical system that converts one form of energy into another. With one of those "heavy as hell" cars that you refer to... its pretty much self explainatory and doesnt seem to really require a Darwinistic explaination... but you seem to think otherwise. If you are so concerned about weight... why not take it from some other place that doesnt effect the overall vehicle saftey (especially considering that you are going to be driving this on the street) and braking performance ??

Oh that's right... you forgot to put that in your reply.

No, I wont tell you that you need an iron block... as I would hate crush your young little mind... but, I will however advise you to put the pipe down... and step away from the crack.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

so getting back to brake reviews......has anyone used the new EBC yellowstuff kevlar pads? im debating on them vs. HPS