chicane

Yeah... dont run them in the rain for long.

Kevlar's CoF will dramatically increase in the wet. It will stop like no other... but it will also eat rotors up quicker. You might also observe some release issues... but nothing you wont get used to in short time.

As for the dry... they are not too bad. Low noise, low dust, low knee... and work great just above cold, all the way through 600 to 750* in hard use.

For all around street use (moderate speed use) I myself would take the HPS pads first. But... if you want to get some compound time under your belt... and if the cost isnt a real issue... Id say try'em out. But if your not really into screwing around with compound tech Id stick with the tried and true HP/HPS.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

my car never sees rain. i dont even know what they cost, i just read about them, and wondered had anyone used them before. ill probably stick with HPS, since theyre coming with the C5 upgrade anyway.

robertbartsch

Car is a 1999 F-body with C5 front rotors, stainless lines, Hawk pads

Brake Manufacturer: GM w/ LG Motorsports C5 Corvette front brackets
Caliper/Piston Number: GM F-body x 4
Rotor Manufacturer: (13" brembo front, GM rear)
Rotor Type: (Plain)
Rotor Dimensions: (Front = 13", rear = stock)
Wheel/Tire Size: 17 inch - GM factory wheels
Tire make/model:GY F1 275/40/17
Brake Line: Stainless - Strano
Brake Fluid:Castrol Dot 3/4
Pads = Hawk HPS - non-ceramic

For me, this was not a great mod as the factory f-body brakes are very good. For my upgrade, the larger C5 front and GM rotors were new, calipers rebuilt, new stainless lines and fresh brake fluid and pads to all four corners.

I cannot tell any difference between the smaller 12 inch factory f-body front brakes and the upgraded 13 inch C5 brakes. I retained the F-body calipers in the front since their pistons are larger than the C5 front caliper pistions.

I would recommend this upgrade only for road racers or extreme use where the existing brakes are fading.

For street use, the factory brakes are more than sufficent if they are in excellent condition.

Save your money and mod something else - IMO.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

Brake Manufacturer: stock
Caliper/Piston Number: stock f-body
Rotor Manufacturer: stock replacement
Rotor Type: blanks
Rotor Dimensions: stock
Pads Front: Carbotech XP-10s
Pads Rear: Carbotech AX-6
Wheel/Tire Size: stock
Tire make/model: was GSD3, NT-01s going on this week
Brake Line: Techna-fit SS lines
Brake Fluid: ATE Superblue DOT4


for a stock caliper setup, I love it. It squeaks a bit, but I don't care bc it stops really well on completely worn out GSD3s, NT-01s are going on this week and I can't wait. The car is full weight + and it stops on a dime; I love it.

Roadwarrior1956

If you track your car (road race or open track) you will find out soon enough what a piece if trash the Camaro LS1 stock calipers are, the bodies are much weaker then the vetts and they will spread over time and ruin your rotors.

If you just drive on the street stock is fine, but if you autocross or do HPDS they will not hold up.

Go to http://frrax.com/rrforum to find out more on this.

I use track brackets C5 adapter with 05-06 GTO calipers with C5 rotors, had LS1 up grade on 94 Z28 but went through 2 set of calipers on the track because of spreading.

Brake Manufacturer: C5 stock 05-06 GTO
Caliper/Piston Number: 05-06 GTO PBR these as the same as the C6 corvette
Rotor Manufacturer: Baer two peice C5
Rotor Type: drilled and slotted
Rotor Dimensions: stock C5
Pads Front: Hawk HP+
Pads Rear: Carbotech
Wheel/Tire Size: 17 x 9.5
Tire make/model: 275-40-17 NT-01s
Brake Line: stock C5
Brake Fluid: Valvoline synthtic DOT4

Amazing difference from LS1 calipers, much stronger stopping power, use a lot less pressure on brake pedal to stop fast and shorter.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

i just put some hps pads on my 98 front and rear. and turned the rotors (im a mechanic) a week or so priror i replaced the brake fluid. just filled up the master and used a sucker on the bleeder to suck the fluid threw, then i let it drip till i was just fluid driping out no air. and i broke the pads in according the the box but im not to happy. dosent stop too well. do i need to try bleeding again, mabye have a way to turn teh abs pump on, or have a friend pump up the pedal

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

What specifically aren't you happy about?

Turned rotors and new pads together isn't a good idea. They don't seat well because of the surface of the rotor and until you get that knocked flat the pads will never have good power and pretty bad pedal feel. One reason I never turn rotors (but not the only one).

You ought to try a real pedal bleed other than a vacuum too.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

rotor and until you get that knocked flat the pads will never have good power and pretty bad pedal feel

what do you mean?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

What do you mean, what do I mean? Rotors need to have a finished surface on them that's nice and flat, and with biting edges for break in (the cross hatching).

Turning a rotor and using a zip wheel does not knock down the ridges the lathe leaves.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

yea i made a pass or 2 on "fast" do get to a flat surface, then i made a pass on slow to get a clean smooth cut, then i take some rough sand paper and scuff it up some

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Sandpaper can't knock the ridges off, and a lathe leaves ridges even on slow.....

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

so new rotors are a must for new pads

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

No.

If the rotors are warped, just replace them. If the rotors are fine and you are only changing pads, leave them be.

Just don't bother turning rotors. If they warped once they'll do it again when they have even less mass after turning. And you can't machine the rotor to a nice flat face with a lathe (which works much like a record player and it's needle--if you've every seen on... I must be getting old). You're left with grooves and sandpaper isn't very good at cutting iron.

Judd

iTrader: (1)

Plus C5 much less 4th Gen rotors are cheap,,,, not worth turning.

v7guy

iTrader: (1)

Brake Manufacturer: porsche/brembo
Caliper/Piston Number: brembo 4 piston
Rotor Manufacturer: porsche
Rotor Type: drilled
Rotor Dimensions: 330x34
Pads Front: PF
Pads Rear: hawk
Wheel/Tire Size: 18x11 x 4
Tire make/model: 315 30 18 Falken Azenis on back and Perelli pzero corsas up front
Brake Line: goodridge
Brake Fluid: Valvoline

Car stops amazingly well. No brake fade even on mountain back roads. Haven't had it to the track yet though.

Roadwarrior1956

You still believe that myth that rotors warp? come on now that myth has been proved wrong for a long time now!

The feeling or perception of wraped rotors has been proved to be the incorrect bedding in of new rotors with leads to brake material being deposited on the rotor heavier in places giving the pulse feel of a wraped rotor.

Check out this link http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Having checked rotors with a straight bar, I know they do. If it was just pad bedding then explain to me why stock rotors warp on cars that have the same owner/drivers, but good replacements like Brembo's and ATE's don't.

Build up can happen, and it feels like a warped rotor, but it's different. And frankly if you think 4 12" iron discs aren't subject to being bent by heat you have another thing coming my friend.

Case in point. A Buggati Veyron does 0-60 in 2.5 seconds. That time covers 119 feet. Your car can stop in about, or a bit more from 60 to 0. The brakes do much more work than an engine every can. That braking is turned to heat, and all that heat is generated by the pads and rotors, and shed through the rotors. And if you don't think rotors can warp, explain heat checking. That's not from pad build-up.

Roadwarrior1956

Just passing on what I have learned from experience and from people like the man who wrote this article http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...akedisk.shtml#

Please don't tell me all these people in street cars are have wrapped disks from heat check! I have corrected the so called warped disk problem many times with just turning down my rotors with excellent results and I am more then confident most people on will too. Hell you could even see the pad mark on the rotor before it was turned.

How do you know the so called warped rotor you saw with a straight edge was not from speed calipers?

You really think people should replace their rotors every time they have a pulse problem?

What a waste of money that would be!

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Pretty much--yes.

Because I know that when folks have that problem it's not from build-up because when better rotors are used in place of the old "pulsing" issues, it doesn't come back.

You aren't talking to someone unfamiliar with cars, or these parts. I never said everyone has heat checked rotors, or that even the checking is causing the warp. I simply pointed out it's not uncommon for rotors to checked, and NOT warped. That shows the fact the rotors do indeed flex and change shape a bit (that's what cracks them). And rotors that are already showing signs of stress cracks cannot be turned.

And look how well turning rotors worked out for you.....

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I know. I wasted my money by buying brembo blanks and I have to buy new rotors every time mine warp..... wait a second.. oh yeah mine don't warp