Brake Reviews
11-07-2008, 04:47 PM
#61
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Pretty much--yes.
Because I know that when folks have that problem it's not from build-up because when better rotors are used in place of the old "pulsing" issues, it doesn't come back.
You aren't talking to someone unfamiliar with cars, or these parts. I never said everyone has heat checked rotors, or that even the checking is causing the warp. I simply pointed out it's not uncommon for rotors to checked, and NOT warped. That shows the fact the rotors do indeed flex and change shape a bit (that's what cracks them). And rotors that are already showing signs of stress cracks cannot be turned.
And look how well turning rotors worked out for you.....
Because I know that when folks have that problem it's not from build-up because when better rotors are used in place of the old "pulsing" issues, it doesn't come back.
You aren't talking to someone unfamiliar with cars, or these parts. I never said everyone has heat checked rotors, or that even the checking is causing the warp. I simply pointed out it's not uncommon for rotors to checked, and NOT warped. That shows the fact the rotors do indeed flex and change shape a bit (that's what cracks them). And rotors that are already showing signs of stress cracks cannot be turned.
And look how well turning rotors worked out for you.....
Oh I know who I am talking too! that's the part that amazes that someone of your level still believes that is the only cause of this problem!
I am not trying to bang heads with you, my reason is to let people know their are other sides to the story, I did not make this stuff up.
05-12-2010, 09:25 AM
#62
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Brake Reviews Hey Guys Be Careful With All Your Brake Upgrades. Short Of Red Devil Titanium Rotors The Only Way To Truly Improve You Stopping Power Is To Increase Your Rotor Diameter Which Increases Your Front End, Unsprung Weight And Rolling Inertia. A Stock Front Rotor Weighs In At 14.5 Pounds. There Is Nothing Lighter. The Eradispeed 2pc Rotor Comes At 16.5 Pounds, And A Stock C5 Rotor Comes In At 27 Pounds. All The Claims Of Better Stopping After Upgrades Is Highly Subjective. I Doubt That Any Of The Claims Would Stand To Hard Data Testing. Gm Gave Us A Pretty Good Set Of Brakes. Don't Screw It Up
My 1pc Brembo Rotor on a UPS Digital Postal Scale lol
Hit up the UPS store to weigh your speed parts
04-08-2016, 02:34 PM
#63
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Caliper: CTSV 4 Piston Brembo
Pads: HPS
Rotor: EBC Dimpled and slotted.
Stopping makes factory brakes seem ridiculous. I drove the route from Cranbrook to Crreston. Rated the top motorcycle highway in the world. The bikes could not even come close to catching me in the corners (due to braking). It's 100+ kilometers of very intense driving. After 10,000km, the cross-hatch on the rotors was finally gone. I stopped once due to fatigue and checked my calipers, they were just, not hot. I should mention I installed air ducts from a Porsche into the wheel for cooling. There is no evidence of any heat damage whatsoever. Every F-body I have owned, I trashed the brakes factory brakes in the 1st 2 weeks of owning the car. The CTSV upgrade is the very 1st upgrade I do on these cars. The car in question is pretty tight. Factory 35th convertible with bolt-on 6pt SFC's, bushed non-adjustable PH bars and relocation brackets, bushed moly panhard bar. Factory lowers the car 1 1/2 inches, Factory Bilstein suspension. Potenza S04 275/35/18 (.1" larger diameter over the factory 275/40/17's). My buddies c5/Z06 can't touch it on a road course, strictl;y due to superior braking. So all to you gainsayers, give me your stock brake car for a couple of hours, and I'll give you back a car with 2 warped front rotors! Best mod EVER for under a $1000.
Pads: HPS
Rotor: EBC Dimpled and slotted.
Stopping makes factory brakes seem ridiculous. I drove the route from Cranbrook to Crreston. Rated the top motorcycle highway in the world. The bikes could not even come close to catching me in the corners (due to braking). It's 100+ kilometers of very intense driving. After 10,000km, the cross-hatch on the rotors was finally gone. I stopped once due to fatigue and checked my calipers, they were just, not hot. I should mention I installed air ducts from a Porsche into the wheel for cooling. There is no evidence of any heat damage whatsoever. Every F-body I have owned, I trashed the brakes factory brakes in the 1st 2 weeks of owning the car. The CTSV upgrade is the very 1st upgrade I do on these cars. The car in question is pretty tight. Factory 35th convertible with bolt-on 6pt SFC's, bushed non-adjustable PH bars and relocation brackets, bushed moly panhard bar. Factory lowers the car 1 1/2 inches, Factory Bilstein suspension. Potenza S04 275/35/18 (.1" larger diameter over the factory 275/40/17's). My buddies c5/Z06 can't touch it on a road course, strictl;y due to superior braking. So all to you gainsayers, give me your stock brake car for a couple of hours, and I'll give you back a car with 2 warped front rotors! Best mod EVER for under a $1000.
04-22-2016, 12:55 PM
#64
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G-LOC Brake pads all the way. Former guys from C-Tech left and started their own company:
http://www.g-locbrakes.com
http://www.g-locbrakes.com/about-us/
http://www.g-locbrakes.com
http://www.g-locbrakes.com/about-us/
11-26-2016, 10:57 AM
#65
DONAIMIAN, you did the brake FAQ here https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ight+reduction but you did not seem to include weights of either setup vs stock... is this knowledge that anyone has or is it kept secret?
