Brake Fluid change
10-06-2005, 06:47 PM
#21
Originally Posted by 2000WS6Vert
I've never bled brakes before. What is the difference b/t the bleeder valve that comes stock on the car and the solo bleeders that you can buy at say, Pep Boys.
10-06-2005, 08:55 PM
#22
Originally Posted by mitchntx
Compressing air concentrates the humidity in that air. Decompressing the air, forms water vapor ... unless you employ a drier. There is also other contaminates like oil from the compressor piston itself, corrosion particulate from the inside of the compressor tank and dirt in the air hose. It all adds up ... Just my thoughts, though.
I use Castrol SRF in my street car and my CMC car.
Takes longer? yes .. maybe 15 minutes ... enough time to wash my hands, pick up the tools and make a bathroom pit stop.
After using the pressure method, both pushing and pulling, I have found I get a better pedal feel using the old fashioned 2 person pump method. Maybe it's psychological ...
I use Castrol SRF in my street car and my CMC car.
Takes longer? yes .. maybe 15 minutes ... enough time to wash my hands, pick up the tools and make a bathroom pit stop.
After using the pressure method, both pushing and pulling, I have found I get a better pedal feel using the old fashioned 2 person pump method. Maybe it's psychological ...
Your absolutely correct with a HP system....
looks liek this
10-06-2005, 09:45 PM
#23
I still have great luck doing the "old fashioned" pump the pedal bleed. And, it's cheap, you don't have to buy any tools. Use what works best for you, but you don't have to spend a fortune to change brake fluid....unless you like new tools (I've used most all of them with the race team I crew for and I prefer the old fashioned way to the Phoenix Injector the team now uses. I still do it the old way).
10-07-2005, 08:17 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by trackbird
The solobleeders are designed with a check valve in them so you don't/can't suck air back into the bleeder. In a normal system, you have someone hold the pedal down, you open the bleeder a bit, some fluid comes out, and you close the bleeder. With the solobleeders, you can (theoretically, I've seen some leak, but it's not too common) just open it, pump the pedal a few times and go back and close it. It allows you to do it "solo", hence the name.
10-07-2005, 02:25 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by trackbird
Nope. Just unscrew them, screw in the new one and bleed (you'll get air in it when you make the change).
10-07-2005, 02:34 PM
#27
Yes, that's basically it. Just remember to do them one at a time and don't let the master cylinder run dry or you can get air in the ABS unit and that can be a whole different mess. Also, you want to bleed them from the farthest from the master cylinder to the closest. Passenger side rear, drivers rear, passengers front, drivers front. And, I usually do 11 pumps of the pedal on the rear brakes and 6 on the front brakes and then I refil the master cylinder (open the rear, 11 pumps, top off fluid, 11 more pumps, top off fluid. When you have fresh fluid coming out, do the next side. Then move to the front, 6 pumps, refil, 6 more, refil, repeat as needed).
10-11-2005, 09:52 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by trackbird
Yes, that's basically it. Just remember to do them one at a time and don't let the master cylinder run dry or you can get air in the ABS unit and that can be a whole different mess. Also, you want to bleed them from the farthest from the master cylinder to the closest. Passenger side rear, drivers rear, passengers front, drivers front. And, I usually do 11 pumps of the pedal on the rear brakes and 6 on the front brakes and then I refil the master cylinder (open the rear, 11 pumps, top off fluid, 11 more pumps, top off fluid. When you have fresh fluid coming out, do the next side. Then move to the front, 6 pumps, refil, 6 more, refil, repeat as needed).
A few more questions.....
How do you get the calipers to re-open to fit the new pads on? I've never played with f-body brakes before.
What is the proper type of grease to be used for the calipers?
Should I take steel wool to the discs to prep them for the new pads? I bought Hawk HPS pads.
10-11-2005, 10:58 AM
#29
Originally Posted by 2000WS6Vert
Thanks for the information!
A few more questions.....
How do you get the calipers to re-open to fit the new pads on? I've never played with f-body brakes before.
What is the proper type of grease to be used for the calipers?
Should I take steel wool to the discs to prep them for the new pads? I bought Hawk HPS pads.
A few more questions.....
How do you get the calipers to re-open to fit the new pads on? I've never played with f-body brakes before.
What is the proper type of grease to be used for the calipers?
Should I take steel wool to the discs to prep them for the new pads? I bought Hawk HPS pads.
You can place the old pad against the caliper pistons and open them up with a C clamp. Or, Sears sells a tool for it. It's designed for single piston calipers so I leave the old pad there, do one side, then the other and you're done.
Most autoparts stores will have disk brake caliper grease for the slider pins. Just tell them what you are doing and that you need grease to lube the pins and they'll get you something. It's usually quite inexpensive as well.
Steel wool probably won't "touch" the disc surface. I'd just install the new pads and run them (if you had a stock type pad on there before).
Good luck!
10-11-2005, 12:21 PM
#31
Copy & Paste Moderator
Here read this:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm
It shows how to do a rotor/pad swap on a 4th gen f-body.
They put the car up on jackstands to do all 4 corners at one, but that is unnecessary. You can jackup one corner at time (and use a jackstand) to replace the rotor/pad. Which, in my opinion, is safer.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm
It shows how to do a rotor/pad swap on a 4th gen f-body.
They put the car up on jackstands to do all 4 corners at one, but that is unnecessary. You can jackup one corner at time (and use a jackstand) to replace the rotor/pad. Which, in my opinion, is safer.