CarnivorWS.6-01

iTrader: (7)

Bought my car about 3 months ago and am putting new rotors and pads all around. Car has 48,000 on it. I am going to drain and replace Brake fluid. Any tips or suggestions on fluid type or procedure? I read in a service manual if TCS equipped I need special tools? Is this true or do they just want to keep Mr. Goodwrench employed.

pimpmaro

Nah... use a turkey baster to pull all the existing fluid out of the master cylinder (the "foggy" kind, not the clear... brake fluid crazes clear plastic). Then refill with new fluid, I recommend ATE SuperBlue. Use a standard bleeding procedure starting with the RR, moving to the LR, then RF, and LF. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder and make sure it stays full and bleed until clean fluid comes out. Nice and easy.

Bens

Pimpmaro,

The Wilwood 570 race fluid has a dry boiling point of 570 degrees and does absorb water. After absorbtion, its boiling point is 280 degrees. What do you think?

http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...pid=909&cid=26
Affordable high performance brake fluid that has both a high dry boiling point (536 deg) and a high wet boiling point (392 deg), but without being excessively hygroscopic. What this really means is that this fluid does not readily absorb moisture like most high performance fluids. Moisture in your braking system can be costly requiring a complete braking system overhaul.

Hoss Ghoul

iTrader: (2)

I'm also about to bleed my system(along with upgrading front brakes)...I'm going to use the ATE Superblue described above. I plan on having the system bled every 1-2 years as protection from the moisture. The same exact fluid is available in gold as well, which makes bleeding the system easy the next time, since you can see when it is fully flushed.

Question though...does anyone know approximately how much fluid the system holds. I have a little over half a can left after doing my 924S and want to know if I need to pick up more.

EDIT: Further down in my search I found a thread about my above question, might come in handy for you all too. About 2 litres of fluid is needed for the flush according to some of the guys in the road racing forum.

BitViper

iTrader: (63)

Any of you gents ever use a power bleeder? This ones from "Motive"


Features Custom cap to fit most late model GM cars and trucks. Looks pretty slick..just pressurize your system..then go from brake to brake .open bleeder close when new fluid shows up

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I used one last week. Works OK. The hardest part was getting it to seal on the res. After getting it sealed it worked fine. You do not need a helper.

Bill

BitViper

iTrader: (63)

Bill..did you use the "Universal" top or teh one specifically for the GM's

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I used the one with the chain, and J bolts. I did not see one in the kit that would fit. Which of the three adapter were for the GM?

Bill

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

I read that that bleeder will put air in the fluid. Air is bad(in brake fluid). I also read that the fluid should be DOT5. Make sure what u pun in is compatable with what is there.

BitViper

iTrader: (63)

the fluid chamber has got a valve the will stop air from flowing in....so its impossiable...unless you pump all the fluid out....

Bill the one you were using was the "Universal" lid sealer..the make one for late model GM tha screws right onto the MC...

check out Motive .com for teh adapter..cost about 290 bucks

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

If the High pressure air is in contact with the fuild it will force air in to solution. This will come out as bubbles when the fuild is hot. In that bleeder is there barrier between the fluid and the high pressure air? If not I would not use it,.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

You folks realize that the bleeder screws are lower than the master cylinder, right?

Open the bleeder screws and allow the system to gravity bleed ...

It's not as fast ... might take 15 minutes for the fluid in the lines to "change" themselves ... but, it's cheaper and you don't intorduce water impregnated shop air into the brake system ...

JMHO

BitViper

iTrader: (63)

It really isn't high pressure..its like 10 lbs..just enough to push the fluid thru the system..Mitchintx..your right..this is just an "assist"..and w/n the amount of h20 injected depend on humidity, the amount of "shaking" you did with the vessel and the fluid used?

I'm no expert but I'm guessing if you don't shake things up uses good fluid like type 200 or super blue..and not using the dregs from the bottle..your not introducing too much h20 into the system..and your getting done quicker and don't need to use two people

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Compressing air concentrates the humidity in that air. Decompressing the air, forms water vapor ... unless you employ a drier. There is also other contaminates like oil from the compressor piston itself, corrosion particulate from the inside of the compressor tank and dirt in the air hose. It all adds up ... Just my thoughts, though.

I use Castrol SRF in my street car and my CMC car.

Takes longer? yes .. maybe 15 minutes ... enough time to wash my hands, pick up the tools and make a bathroom pit stop.

After using the pressure method, both pushing and pulling, I have found I get a better pedal feel using the old fashioned 2 person pump method. Maybe it's psychological ...

pimpmaro

Sorry, I haven't been around here for awhile and just noticed your post. I'm mostly a fan of the ATE fluid as I have friends who have had quite a bit of success with it, in addition to the fact that I haven't had any problems boiling it while AutoXing. It has a higher wet boiling point than the Wilwood 570, but again, I know (albeit second hand) that the ATE is VERY minimally hygroscopic, which comforts me considering I don't do a fluid change ALL that often.

VIP1

How does that affect winter driving?
I drive my car all year 'round.
I dont want un-absorbed water freezing in the lines.
(That is why brake fluid is designed to absorb water,
so it doesnt form ice in the braking system.)

Not DOT5

DOT 5 fluid is Silicone based and not compatible with any other brake fluid which are Glycol Ether based.

Maybe you meant DOT 5.1?

Here is a recent thread on Brake Fluid:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/385498-good-brake-fluid.html

Here are some good articles on Brakes (including Brake Fluid):
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml

Specifically about Brake Fluid:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml


Here is a recent thread on bleeding brakes:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=bleed+brake

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I run ATE year around. I've never had an issue with it, even when it's below 0 outside.

VIP1

Cool.
Thanks.

mrbobo

After some research, I opted for Motul 600. As others have said, wet boiling point is also important.

Check this link out: http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...Comparison.htm

I bought Earls solo bleeders for all 4 wheels; 2 bottles of MOTUL 600. Pumped it out with the pedal, poured it back in the fill resevoir, until I had added both bottles. No air, and was easy.

2000WS6Vert

I've never bled brakes before. What is the difference b/t the bleeder valve that comes stock on the car and the solo bleeders that you can buy at say, Pep Boys.