Brake Fluid change
Brake Fluid change Bought my car about 3 months ago and am putting new rotors and pads all around. Car has 48,000 on it. I am going to drain and replace Brake fluid. Any tips or suggestions on fluid type or procedure? I read in a service manual if TCS equipped I need special tools? Is this true or do they just want to keep Mr. Goodwrench employed. 
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,586
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From: Columbus, OH
Nah... use a turkey baster to pull all the existing fluid out of the master cylinder (the "foggy" kind, not the clear... brake fluid crazes clear plastic). Then refill with new fluid, I recommend ATE SuperBlue. Use a standard bleeding procedure starting with the RR, moving to the LR, then RF, and LF. Just keep an eye on the master cylinder and make sure it stays full and bleed until clean fluid comes out. Nice and easy.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 17
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Precision Brakes Company Pimpmaro,
The Wilwood 570 race fluid has a dry boiling point of 570 degrees and does absorb water. After absorbtion, its boiling point is 280 degrees. What do you think?
http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...pid=909&cid=26
Affordable high performance brake fluid that has both a high dry boiling point (536 deg) and a high wet boiling point (392 deg), but without being excessively hygroscopic. What this really means is that this fluid does not readily absorb moisture like most high performance fluids. Moisture in your braking system can be costly requiring a complete braking system overhaul.
The Wilwood 570 race fluid has a dry boiling point of 570 degrees and does absorb water. After absorbtion, its boiling point is 280 degrees. What do you think?
http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...pid=909&cid=26
Affordable high performance brake fluid that has both a high dry boiling point (536 deg) and a high wet boiling point (392 deg), but without being excessively hygroscopic. What this really means is that this fluid does not readily absorb moisture like most high performance fluids. Moisture in your braking system can be costly requiring a complete braking system overhaul.
I'm also about to bleed my system(along with upgrading front brakes)...I'm going to use the ATE Superblue described above. I plan on having the system bled every 1-2 years as protection from the moisture. The same exact fluid is available in gold as well, which makes bleeding the system easy the next time, since you can see when it is fully flushed.
Question though...does anyone know approximately how much fluid the system holds. I have a little over half a can left after doing my 924S and want to know if I need to pick up more.
EDIT: Further down in my search I found a thread about my above question, might come in handy for you all too. About 2 litres of fluid is needed for the flush according to some of the guys in the road racing forum.
Question though...does anyone know approximately how much fluid the system holds. I have a little over half a can left after doing my 924S and want to know if I need to pick up more.
EDIT: Further down in my search I found a thread about my above question, might come in handy for you all too. About 2 litres of fluid is needed for the flush according to some of the guys in the road racing forum.
Last edited by Hoss Ghoul; Sep 22, 2005 at 02:25 AM.
Any of you gents ever use a power bleeder? This ones from "Motive"
Features Custom cap to fit most late model GM cars and trucks. Looks pretty slick..just pressurize your system..then go from brake to brake .open bleeder close when new fluid shows up
Features Custom cap to fit most late model GM cars and trucks. Looks pretty slick..just pressurize your system..then go from brake to brake .open bleeder close when new fluid shows up
Originally Posted by BitViper
Any of you gents ever use a power bleeder? This ones from "Motive"
Features Custom cap to fit most late model GM cars and trucks. Looks pretty slick..just pressurize your system..then go from brake to brake .open bleeder close when new fluid shows up
Features Custom cap to fit most late model GM cars and trucks. Looks pretty slick..just pressurize your system..then go from brake to brake .open bleeder close when new fluid shows up
Bill
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Originally Posted by BitViper
Bill..did you use the "Universal" top or teh one specifically for the GM's
Bill
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I read that that bleeder will put air in the fluid. Air is bad(in brake fluid). I also read that the fluid should be DOT5. Make sure what u pun in is compatable with what is there.
the fluid chamber has got a valve the will stop air from flowing in....so its impossiable...unless you pump all the fluid out....
Bill the one you were using was the "Universal" lid sealer..the make one for late model GM tha screws right onto the MC...
check out Motive .com for teh adapter..cost about 290 bucks
Bill the one you were using was the "Universal" lid sealer..the make one for late model GM tha screws right onto the MC...
check out Motive .com for teh adapter..cost about 290 bucks
If the High pressure air is in contact with the fuild it will force air in to solution. This will come out as bubbles when the fuild is hot. In that bleeder is there barrier between the fluid and the high pressure air? If not I would not use it,.
You folks realize that the bleeder screws are lower than the master cylinder, right?
Open the bleeder screws and allow the system to gravity bleed ...
It's not as fast ... might take 15 minutes for the fluid in the lines to "change" themselves ... but, it's cheaper and you don't intorduce water impregnated shop air into the brake system ...
JMHO
Open the bleeder screws and allow the system to gravity bleed ...
It's not as fast ... might take 15 minutes for the fluid in the lines to "change" themselves ... but, it's cheaper and you don't intorduce water impregnated shop air into the brake system ...
JMHO
It really isn't high pressure..its like 10 lbs..just enough to push the fluid thru the system..Mitchintx..your right..this is just an "assist"..and w/n the amount of h20 injected depend on humidity, the amount of "shaking" you did with the vessel and the fluid used?
I'm no expert but I'm guessing if you don't shake things up uses good fluid like type 200 or super blue..and not using the dregs from the bottle..your not introducing too much h20 into the system..and your getting done quicker and don't need to use two people
I'm no expert but I'm guessing if you don't shake things up uses good fluid like type 200 or super blue..and not using the dregs from the bottle..your not introducing too much h20 into the system..and your getting done quicker and don't need to use two people
Compressing air concentrates the humidity in that air. Decompressing the air, forms water vapor ... unless you employ a drier. There is also other contaminates like oil from the compressor piston itself, corrosion particulate from the inside of the compressor tank and dirt in the air hose. It all adds up ... Just my thoughts, though.
I use Castrol SRF in my street car and my CMC car.
Takes longer? yes .. maybe 15 minutes ... enough time to wash my hands, pick up the tools and make a bathroom pit stop.
After using the pressure method, both pushing and pulling, I have found I get a better pedal feel using the old fashioned 2 person pump method. Maybe it's psychological ...
I use Castrol SRF in my street car and my CMC car.
Takes longer? yes .. maybe 15 minutes ... enough time to wash my hands, pick up the tools and make a bathroom pit stop.
After using the pressure method, both pushing and pulling, I have found I get a better pedal feel using the old fashioned 2 person pump method. Maybe it's psychological ...
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,586
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, OH
Originally Posted by Bens
Pimpmaro,
The Wilwood 570 race fluid has a dry boiling point of 570 degrees and does absorb water. After absorbtion, its boiling point is 280 degrees. What do you think?
http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...pid=909&cid=26
Affordable high performance brake fluid that has both a high dry boiling point (536 deg) and a high wet boiling point (392 deg), but without being excessively hygroscopic. What this really means is that this fluid does not readily absorb moisture like most high performance fluids. Moisture in your braking system can be costly requiring a complete braking system overhaul.
The Wilwood 570 race fluid has a dry boiling point of 570 degrees and does absorb water. After absorbtion, its boiling point is 280 degrees. What do you think?
http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...pid=909&cid=26
Affordable high performance brake fluid that has both a high dry boiling point (536 deg) and a high wet boiling point (392 deg), but without being excessively hygroscopic. What this really means is that this fluid does not readily absorb moisture like most high performance fluids. Moisture in your braking system can be costly requiring a complete braking system overhaul.
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by pimpmaro
the ATE is VERY minimally hygroscopic, which comforts me considering I don't do a fluid change ALL that often.
I drive my car all year 'round.
I dont want un-absorbed water freezing in the lines.
(That is why brake fluid is designed to absorb water,
so it doesnt form ice in the braking system.)
Originally Posted by YellowToy/A
I also read that the fluid should be DOT5
DOT 5 fluid is Silicone based and not compatible with any other brake fluid which are Glycol Ether based.
Maybe you meant DOT 5.1?
Here is a recent thread on Brake Fluid:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/385498-good-brake-fluid.html
Here are some good articles on Brakes (including Brake Fluid):
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
Specifically about Brake Fluid:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml
Here is a recent thread on bleeding brakes:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=bleed+brake
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Western PA
After some research, I opted for Motul 600. As others have said, wet boiling point is also important.
Check this link out: http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...Comparison.htm
I bought Earls solo bleeders for all 4 wheels; 2 bottles of MOTUL 600. Pumped it out with the pedal, poured it back in the fill resevoir, until I had added both bottles. No air, and was easy.
Check this link out: http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...Comparison.htm
I bought Earls solo bleeders for all 4 wheels; 2 bottles of MOTUL 600. Pumped it out with the pedal, poured it back in the fill resevoir, until I had added both bottles. No air, and was easy.
