I am going to be ordering a set of SFC's and a shock tower brace, how hard is it to install a STB? Are there any sites that give step by step instructions?

 

If its a 2 point STB its as easy as taking a couple of bolts off and putting the bolts back on. A 3 point is a little more involved.

 

Oh yeah it's a 2 point

 

Then you are good. That should not take 1 hour to install.

 

make a post in suspension about shock tower braces, ive heard that they dont do anything at all on a stock suspension car, that you would have to have very stiff springs to really need one

 

The install should take maybe 15 minutes. It's easy enough to to install that I would always remove it before goin th the track. And I DID notice a difference on my stock suspension car. $100 well spent IMO.

 

The F-Body is a unibody car. That means no frame. Since there is no frame, the front quarter panels are inclined to warp when under pressure. Think of running downhill and then getting to the bottom and going uphill. The abruptness of the transition can impart a large force to the chassis, and the two front quarter panels tend to bend towards each other at the top.

The Shock tower brace simply stops this from happening by keeping the shock tower at a set distance apart with tube bracing.

What this really does is prevent chassis flex and the associated change in steering geometry when that happens. It allows the car to let the suspension work instead of letting the chassis flex for part of the travel.

That's all an STB does, and it is worth it. I have a 3-point Edlebrock and it makes a big difference when you have to work the suspension in a corner at speed. That usually happens in a corner with a change in height or an abrupt upturn in it. It CAN help in a washboard corner, too ... but let's face it, the F-Body isn't made for washboard roads to start with. If you're gonna' do washboards, then you need IRS instead of a solid axle.

 

couldnt of said it any better GregP!!!

here are some pics of my strut tower brace..tell me what u think!

 

Thanks GregP, that makes me want one even more.

 

All I have to do is remove these four bolts in the black box in the picture below, correct? Then slide the STB on and tighten the bolts back up?

 

Yes. It should take you 5 minutes at the absolute most, unless they are rusted tight.

 

Even faster if you have air tools

 

I thought I read a post that said all of the stress is placed on the K-member. Someone tested the load at the strut towers and there was virtually no stress placed there, if I remember correctly. There was a big thread about how they are actually useless.

 

Useless? Hardly. They make great towel racks, and look

 

It's an expensive towel rack. They do look good however.

 

This is true, except even with stiff springs you don't need one. There are dedicated race fbodys running 1000 lb/in front springs that don't seem to need a STB. And I'm running 700 lb/in front springs without one. Stock spring rates are only around 300 lb/in.

As stated above, the loads go through the K-member. Take a front wheel off the car and have a close look at the setup.

Another thing that is not obvious without removing the front fender is a trianglated rail above each front tire that ties into the firewall.

GM really did a good job with the design of the 4th gen unit body. Most of these parts like STB and SFC's were designed to help out 3rd gens and Mustangs. In a 3rd gen you can see the hood move in hard cornering, and it has a strut front suspension; totally a different thing than a 4th gen.

 

The 3rd gens are very flimsy. They could use one for sure.

 

The first suspension mod I did was the strut tower brace. And yes, it was noticable for the good.

Also I have noticed while changing the spark plugs that the stb was very helpful to lean on to get leverage on the passenger side rear plug.

I have a question though. If I get an anlignment should I remove the strut tower brace then put it back on after the alignment? Or leave it on and go ahead and get an alignment with the strut tower brace on?

Thanks.

 

I sure remember when my 3rd gen's hood beginning to move in hard cornering. Not a pretty sight. As far as my 4th gen, tried the strut tower brace and it didn't do jack. Well, on second thought, it helped by jacking my arm when reaching below the thing.

As far as the alignment question goes, if you are operating the vehicle with the STB, then why would you remove it when you get an alignment? Better yet, since the 4th gen doesn't benefit from it directly, it wouldn't matter.

The experience that people have with the 4th STB improving the performance is due to the STB acting as a "passive" stabiliser bar. For the weight added, I'd rather replace the front stabiliser bar with a larger diameter to directly improve the problem, rather than add weight by indirectly improving the problem.

 

If they work or not they look good on the LS1.