Torque Arms
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 14
From: England
Torque Arms Before anyone says search, I've already tried and it's still broken. 
I have been through the last 6 pages of posts but that has only produced more questions than answers.
Basically interested in torque arms, body mounted ones.
However, I keep reading that people have issues with excessive noise and 'clunking'. Is this common to ALL of them, or are some brands better than others?
I also notice they are often avaible with either rod ends or poly bushes. Any thoughts?
My main aim is of course to improve the ability of the car, but it isn't a race car. So I don't want it fouling and banging on the underside of the car.
I have been through the last 6 pages of posts but that has only produced more questions than answers.
Basically interested in torque arms, body mounted ones.
However, I keep reading that people have issues with excessive noise and 'clunking'. Is this common to ALL of them, or are some brands better than others?
I also notice they are often avaible with either rod ends or poly bushes. Any thoughts?
My main aim is of course to improve the ability of the car, but it isn't a race car. So I don't want it fouling and banging on the underside of the car.
Most people that go with body mounted torque arms do so for the traction benefit, and usually because they are big into drag racing.
Google "Unbalanced Engineering" and check out their F-body torque arm. Pretty cool idea, and they claim it isn't all that noisy. Pretty penny though.
I've been down the torque arm road, and decided to stay with the full length pieces. I'm not heavy enough into drag racing that I could justify the clunk (and nearly everyone I've talked to complains about that). If you are worried about breaking your tailshaft, both BMR and Yank make new tranny crossmembers that get the torque arm mount off the tailshaft, but still use a full length torque arm. Those produce some more noise/vibration as well though.
Google "Unbalanced Engineering" and check out their F-body torque arm. Pretty cool idea, and they claim it isn't all that noisy. Pretty penny though.
I've been down the torque arm road, and decided to stay with the full length pieces. I'm not heavy enough into drag racing that I could justify the clunk (and nearly everyone I've talked to complains about that). If you are worried about breaking your tailshaft, both BMR and Yank make new tranny crossmembers that get the torque arm mount off the tailshaft, but still use a full length torque arm. Those produce some more noise/vibration as well though.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Once you correctly setup and tighten the bolts on the Spohn TA/other body mounted TA ALL the noises go away. YOu might also have to do some "light" clearancing in the tunnel at the top section, the TA taps it sometimes.
I recently put on an adjustable (rod end) torque
arm and a trans crossmember which has an
independent torque arm mount, making it pretty
much the same as chassis mounted setups other
than TA length.
I took the crossmember back off, it was a really
unpleasant thing to drive with, all the coins in my
console were jangling full time and you could feel
the pinion angle change (as vibration).
I put the mount back on the trans and kept the
TA, which only clunks a little. But the vibration
is now unnoticeable.
I reckon if you're not so hardcore that you take
out airbags and air conditioning, you probably want
not to go that way (chassis mounted). Unless you
can come up with a much better way of damping
the substantial vibration, like for example bolting
it to a heavy chunk of iron-filled aluminum suspended
on a fat black marshmallow. Heh.
I tried isolating it with neoprene washers and that
helped none. Though maybe more bunge might make
it tolerable, it would have to be more than 1/8".
arm and a trans crossmember which has an
independent torque arm mount, making it pretty
much the same as chassis mounted setups other
than TA length.
I took the crossmember back off, it was a really
unpleasant thing to drive with, all the coins in my
console were jangling full time and you could feel
the pinion angle change (as vibration).
I put the mount back on the trans and kept the
TA, which only clunks a little. But the vibration
is now unnoticeable.
I reckon if you're not so hardcore that you take
out airbags and air conditioning, you probably want
not to go that way (chassis mounted). Unless you
can come up with a much better way of damping
the substantial vibration, like for example bolting
it to a heavy chunk of iron-filled aluminum suspended
on a fat black marshmallow. Heh.
I tried isolating it with neoprene washers and that
helped none. Though maybe more bunge might make
it tolerable, it would have to be more than 1/8".
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I recently put on an adjustable (rod end) torque
arm and a trans crossmember which has an
independent torque arm mount, making it pretty
much the same as chassis mounted setups other
than TA length.
I took the crossmember back off, it was a really
unpleasant thing to drive with, all the coins in my
console were jangling full time and you could feel
the pinion angle change (as vibration).
I put the mount back on the trans and kept the
TA, which only clunks a little. But the vibration
is now unnoticeable.
I reckon if you're not so hardcore that you take
out airbags and air conditioning, you probably want
not to go that way (chassis mounted). Unless you
can come up with a much better way of damping
the substantial vibration, like for example bolting
it to a heavy chunk of iron-filled aluminum suspended
on a fat black marshmallow. Heh.
I tried isolating it with neoprene washers and that
helped none. Though maybe more bunge might make
it tolerable, it would have to be more than 1/8".
arm and a trans crossmember which has an
independent torque arm mount, making it pretty
much the same as chassis mounted setups other
than TA length.
I took the crossmember back off, it was a really
unpleasant thing to drive with, all the coins in my
console were jangling full time and you could feel
the pinion angle change (as vibration).
I put the mount back on the trans and kept the
TA, which only clunks a little. But the vibration
is now unnoticeable.
I reckon if you're not so hardcore that you take
out airbags and air conditioning, you probably want
not to go that way (chassis mounted). Unless you
can come up with a much better way of damping
the substantial vibration, like for example bolting
it to a heavy chunk of iron-filled aluminum suspended
on a fat black marshmallow. Heh.
I tried isolating it with neoprene washers and that
helped none. Though maybe more bunge might make
it tolerable, it would have to be more than 1/8".
Fat black marshmallow...
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
Hi
I installed a BMR adustable torque arm and then later installed a BMR torque arm relocation kit in. It was basically a new tranny cross member that relocates the front torque arm mount off the tranny tail shaft.
It added some vibration and noise from the rear end, but it is not too bad. I think it was a good compromise. What I notice the most is thud when driving over fairly large bumps like train tracks or pot holes. The thud transmits into the floor closer to the drivers seat. However, it is still very streatable. I kept the old crossmember and clam shell mount, but do not plan to change them back any time soon.
JA
I installed a BMR adustable torque arm and then later installed a BMR torque arm relocation kit in. It was basically a new tranny cross member that relocates the front torque arm mount off the tranny tail shaft.
It added some vibration and noise from the rear end, but it is not too bad. I think it was a good compromise. What I notice the most is thud when driving over fairly large bumps like train tracks or pot holes. The thud transmits into the floor closer to the drivers seat. However, it is still very streatable. I kept the old crossmember and clam shell mount, but do not plan to change them back any time soon.
JA