Line Locks
SLP kits do not have the advanced protective circuitry nor feedback circuitry our kits retain. There's are not rebuildable, all our kits are.
Between a hurst style and biondo style, both are quality units. For the best bang for the buck, the B-001 kits are our best seller @~125.00 Differences in cost between our hurst style and others are solely due to the solenoid itself.
All kits retain a master switch AND control switch and include a remote LED indicator including all electrical needs. All kits come PRE-ASSEMBLED no Teflon tape necessary! We even include a grommet for the firewall!
We've got the largest selection of LL and ABS kits on the market for your car. All kits are always in stock and ship within 24 business hours guaranteed.
You can view all kits listed in the "Braking" section of our website.
The instructions that are included with the kit are a joke, and the photographs are almost useless (except to show you the general area in which to work). Maybe I'm just old, stupid and blind, but in hindsight, sounds like the SJM kit has everything that the SLP kit doesn't. This (SLP) is a very basic kit and is probably the most expensive. I would highly advise if you install an SLP kit, add at least a master control switch or something that lets you the circuit is live AND so it can be disabled. SLP kits use an on/off NON-momentary switch to control their circuit; no manufacture uses this type of control without additional safety protection. I do not believe this is track legal, nor is it safe.
…safety considerations…If you leave it switched on you may not know it is armed...cleaning your car, switching it on (leaving it armed unknowingly), you can burn the solenoid out. Your curious buddy while driving decides to switch the switch without your knowledge...stepping on the brakes without knowing it is armed leads to a very hazardous condition obviously. I think I read someone recently ran into the store, came back out and went to move the car, and it wouldn’t move since the line lock was armed accidentally. Do not run solenoids for more then 60 seconds. This is the general rule for all LL solenoids.
OUR KITS: I feel our directions are quite complete. In addition to words (for those whom do not like to read) we do have install pictures, as well as a full wiring schematic diagram included. We offer full customer support for the products we manufacture and design (and warranty them too).
We offer for the LS1 F-bodies (Biondo style B-001) configuration in both front mount kits (how SLP copied our design) or the top mount kit which is much easier to install. The top mount kit is much easier to install due to the physical mounting location of the solenoid in reference to OEM components which can get in the way when you try to drill and mount the solenoid.
As mentioned our kits are complete with all the bells and whistles included with pre-installed fittings (no Teflon tape necessary)…master arm switch with remote LED indicator and momentary control switch…down to the rubber grommet for running the wire through the firewall….always in stock guaranteed shipping within 24 business hours
Steve
President
SJM Manufacturing Inc.
www.sjmmanufacturing.com
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SLP kits do not have the advanced protective circuitry nor feedback circuitry our kits retain. There's are not rebuildable, all our kits are.
Between a hurst style and biondo style, both are quality units. For the best bang for the buck, the B-001 kits are our best seller @~125.00 Differences in cost between our hurst style and others are solely due to the solenoid itself.
All kits retain a master switch AND control switch and include a remote LED indicator including all electrical needs. All kits come PRE-ASSEMBLED no Teflon tape necessary! We even include a grommet for the firewall!
We've got the largest selection of LL and ABS kits on the market for your car. All kits are always in stock and ship within 24 business hours guaranteed.
You can view all kits listed in the "Braking" section of our website.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
IF we had a donor, we would be more then happy to work something up for you guys. There was a company that made up a kit (can't think of whom it is but did see something at one point)...it seemed quite expensive in comparison to any-other kit out there (probably due to they were the only ones making it). For some reason, corvette components are typically more expensive...
IF we had a donor, we would be more then happy to work something up for you guys. There was a company that made up a kit (can't think of whom it is but did see something at one point)...it seemed quite expensive in comparison to any-other kit out there (probably due to they were the only ones making it). For some reason, corvette components are typically more expensive...
Your kit sounds real nice, if you had one and didn't tack on Corvette tax I'm sure you could sell more than a few.
If you made up the kit, you'd need a few specialized tools as some of the bends coming off the master cyl are very tight...a standard tube bender won't cut it.
We do not have any late model corvettes to work from...only old school vettes.
i also have a master switch with a 'armed' light letting me know if its on .... which ran be about $2, if that, more in parts to do so
steve10 - what exactly is the point of having two switches to control the LL ? I can see if the momentary switch fails you can control it by the master switch, but then that would be a problem of the switch failing -or- faulty wiring, not the LL solenoid, or is there a safety feature in the solenoid that allows pressure to be bled off if it fails?
after as many uses i have put my LL through, maybe it wouldnt hurt to replace the solenoid
i do have a problem after i use my LL recently (not sure if its a LL created problem) , at the top end of the track, when i apply the brakes it will give a stiff feel to the brake pedal , and i have to pump the brakes (about two times) for it to eventually grab & slow the car down .......... but that is with the LL switch disabled and launching w/ a foot brake, but the LL is used during the burnout
The other reason why CC uses two switches is so that you don't accidentally turn on the CC without knowledge. The main master Cruise Control switch completely deactivates the ENTIRE circuit. ...This the exact same function of our LL kits master control switches.
When you’re not going to use the LL, keeping the master arm switch of ensures you (or anyone else) does not switch the circuit on. You or someone else can depress the control button all day long and it won’t activate.
When you switch the master switch, the remote LED lamp illuminates letting you know the circuit is live and the control button can be used at any time (once again, just like how your cruise control momentary button works).
We choose instead of using a single master switch with LED to use a separate master switch with remote LED. The single switches are large and cannot be hidden easily. If you do find a good hiding place for it, then you can’t see the LED. Our switches are small, can be mounted in a variety of locations and the LED lamp can be easily mounted anywhere on the dash which looks stock and is very visible when illuminated.
If you still kept the original switch (non-momentary control switches I do not believe are track legal from my understanding), then adding the extra switch to completely deactivate the circuit is a very good move.
I'd suggest for the folks considering a line lock, they all will function the same and work all alike, it is the features and benefits that makes kits different. Ours I believe are the best, safest and most complete on the market and have been proven since ~1995!
Instead of purchasing a component, then spending additional funds and the knowledge necessary to wire-in additional components (I'd imagine you needed more then 2 dollars worth of parts but if you got it for that little good job!)...you'll need connectors, switch with LED or separate high lumens LED, additional wire and a few other misc pieces. Purchase a complete kit that retains the features that you require.





