Need a new torque arm. Opinions please.
12-28-2005, 01:10 PM
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Need a new torque arm. Opinions please. Like the title staes. I need a new T/A. What is the best bang for hte buck out there? What would you guys prefer? Spohn, BMR, etc? Any info about this topic would be great! thanks
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12-28-2005, 01:36 PM
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i have the spohn non tranny mounted ta. unless your a drag only car, i dont recommend it. check out UMI's tranny mounted adjustable. its cheap and looks sturdy.
12-28-2005, 03:21 PM
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I understand that the chrome moly is damn near bullet proof but its kinda pricey. Do I really NEED to get that or will I be ok with just a standard Spohn adjustable? I dont have many power mods to speak of really except 4.11s exhaust, intake etc. so I am not pumping out too much power.
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01-01-2006, 11:42 AM
#10
Originally Posted by ecko70
I understand that the chrome moly is damn near bullet proof but its kinda pricey.
01-01-2006, 03:33 PM
#13
Originally Posted by 98NBMZ
It is also lighter than the mild steel, so there is some weight savings if you are wanting to shed a few pounds of weight off the car.
01-01-2006, 04:03 PM
#14
Originally Posted by LawmanSS
Sorta off topic, but does anyone know the weight savings between the chromoly and mild steel?...in terms of a trans-mounted adjustable torque arm...
http://www.umiperformance.com/2205.aspx
Hope that helps!
Ryan
01-01-2006, 06:25 PM
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I can tell you right now, if you get the Spohn adjustable torque arm that mounts to the body, do NOT lower your car! Mine is stock, and I have a hard time driving up on some alignment lifts, and speed bumps are a hit or miss affair, so are steep inclines.
And yes, there is some clunking going on if you don't drive smooth, especially with a M6, never really under braking though.
They do have two versions of the body mounted t/a, the straight cross member one, and the curved one for cars with Headers and Y pipes. I have the curved one which is the one causing the clearance issues. I really wanted to lower my car...but it's a no can do now
When the car sits on the ground, there is no way you could put a soda can under the cross member....maybe half a soda can...
I also need to mention that since I have SLP SFC's, this will also cause the cross member to sit a bit lower to the ground, due to the thickness of the SFC's. By the way, Spohn recommends using longer bolts if you have SLP style SFC's, but from what I see on my car, it's not really necessary. I do recommend getting the longer bolts for the attachment point to the rear end, the stockers are just cutting it too close, Sphon offers them for like 20 bucks I think. In that pic I have the stock bolts, the new ones from Spohn stick out about a 1/4" past the nut.
As for traction...this thing did make a big difference, when I was with LS6 intake and headers only. I could be in first gear and be at around 3000 rpm and mash the gas, and the car would just squat and go...it was great! Then I put the cam in....bye bye traction and that's with 315's!
Manny
And yes, there is some clunking going on if you don't drive smooth, especially with a M6, never really under braking though.
They do have two versions of the body mounted t/a, the straight cross member one, and the curved one for cars with Headers and Y pipes. I have the curved one which is the one causing the clearance issues. I really wanted to lower my car...but it's a no can do now
When the car sits on the ground, there is no way you could put a soda can under the cross member....maybe half a soda can...
I also need to mention that since I have SLP SFC's, this will also cause the cross member to sit a bit lower to the ground, due to the thickness of the SFC's. By the way, Spohn recommends using longer bolts if you have SLP style SFC's, but from what I see on my car, it's not really necessary. I do recommend getting the longer bolts for the attachment point to the rear end, the stockers are just cutting it too close, Sphon offers them for like 20 bucks I think. In that pic I have the stock bolts, the new ones from Spohn stick out about a 1/4" past the nut.
As for traction...this thing did make a big difference, when I was with LS6 intake and headers only. I could be in first gear and be at around 3000 rpm and mash the gas, and the car would just squat and go...it was great! Then I put the cam in....bye bye traction
and that's with 315's!Manny
01-01-2006, 09:47 PM
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Yes the chromoly one is lighter.. however they are probably of equal strength overall since the chromoloy has a thinner wall. and the Chromoloy WILL FLEX MORE given the same load, thinner load, and same modulus of elasticity.
Has any Finite element Analyis been performed on these units? That would tell you for sure what is best and you might be surprised and want the mild steel unit.
** DONT fall victim to clever advertising** Chromoloy is not always a better choice if it means sacrifising material.
Has any Finite element Analyis been performed on these units? That would tell you for sure what is best and you might be surprised and want the mild steel unit.
** DONT fall victim to clever advertising** Chromoloy is not always a better choice if it means sacrifising material.
01-02-2006, 11:45 AM
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Do aftermarket torque arms generally make noise while driving? I have a lowered 94 formula and i'll need a torque arm but I dont want to deal with clearance issues and I dont want a lot of noise. What are my options?