Relocated PHB
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From: TX
Relocated PHB Someone mentioned relocating the panhard bar for improved handling in a post not too long ago..
I assume they were talking about lowering the body mount point on a lowered car in order to get the bar closer to level?
If not, what were they talking about?
Also. Anybody run a z-link (watts link)?
I assume they were talking about lowering the body mount point on a lowered car in order to get the bar closer to level?
If not, what were they talking about?
Also. Anybody run a z-link (watts link)?
The panhard bar should be level for best performance. So the ability to adjust it on a lowered car is a plus. But in that case you would need to lower it on the axle end. Or raise it on the body end.
There is a panhard lowering kit (that lowers the entire panhard rod). This can improve the lateral traction, but requires different spring/swaybar rates to balance it. I can only think of one person who is running one right now, and I have one sitting in the garage to put on soon.
Some folks say you can get the same results by tuning your springs/swaybar, without resorting to lowering the panhard rod. I think that may be right. That opinion came from Sam Strano, and he does know a lot about these suspensions.
I wanted the ability to run a stiffer spring and sway bar for drag racing, and not have the rear end get loose when cornering. It's one of those rare times when a solution works well for both types of racing, instead of having to choose one over the other...
Sam hooked me up with a hollow 1" rear sway bar, to go along with the hollow 35mm I wanted for the front.
There is a panhard lowering kit (that lowers the entire panhard rod). This can improve the lateral traction, but requires different spring/swaybar rates to balance it. I can only think of one person who is running one right now, and I have one sitting in the garage to put on soon.
Some folks say you can get the same results by tuning your springs/swaybar, without resorting to lowering the panhard rod. I think that may be right. That opinion came from Sam Strano, and he does know a lot about these suspensions.
I wanted the ability to run a stiffer spring and sway bar for drag racing, and not have the rear end get loose when cornering. It's one of those rare times when a solution works well for both types of racing, instead of having to choose one over the other...
Sam hooked me up with a hollow 1" rear sway bar, to go along with the hollow 35mm I wanted for the front.
In this post there is some information about a couple of attempts at a watts link setup, and about a panhard lowering solution.
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=276
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?act=ST&f=3&t=276
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From: TX
BMR made that part for the sole purpose of making room for duals. Since it wasn't intended to lower the phb for improved cornering, many are concerned that it isn't strong enough. It looks to me like it could be, but still, thats only half of the picture. You need a bracket on the axle as well.
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Originally Posted by OldeSkool
BMR made that part for the sole purpose of making room for duals. Since it wasn't intended to lower the phb for improved cornering, many are concerned that it isn't strong enough. It looks to me like it could be, but still, thats only half of the picture. You need a bracket on the axle as well.
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Originally Posted by sikws6
Can't you just use the panhard relocation kit that BMR sells? seems like it would do the trick?
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I've got the Unbalanced Engineering Lowering PHB kit. I haven't had much time to drive/race it since installation due to a clutch failure though.
I dropped the panhard bar the full 4". A brace goes from the driver side bracket to the axle tube for structural reinforcement for the additional lateral loading. To make use of the lower rear roll center you need to increase your rear spring rate (I used the recommended 300) and put in a stiffer rear bar (solid 24-25mm or the equivalent rate hollow). I'm not sure if my compression on my Koni DA's is soft enough, but I guess I'll find out.
I dropped the panhard bar the full 4". A brace goes from the driver side bracket to the axle tube for structural reinforcement for the additional lateral loading. To make use of the lower rear roll center you need to increase your rear spring rate (I used the recommended 300) and put in a stiffer rear bar (solid 24-25mm or the equivalent rate hollow). I'm not sure if my compression on my Koni DA's is soft enough, but I guess I'll find out.
Originally Posted by sikws6
why do you need a bracket on the rearend?
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From: TX
Originally Posted by sikws6
why do you need a bracket on the rearend?
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
I've got the Unbalanced Engineering Lowering PHB kit. I haven't had much time to drive/race it since installation due to a clutch failure though.
I dropped the panhard bar the full 4". A brace goes from the driver side bracket to the axle tube for structural reinforcement for the additional lateral loading. To make use of the lower rear roll center you need to increase your rear spring rate (I used the recommended 300) and put in a stiffer rear bar (solid 24-25mm or the equivalent rate hollow). I'm not sure if my compression on my Koni DA's is soft enough, but I guess I'll find out.
I dropped the panhard bar the full 4". A brace goes from the driver side bracket to the axle tube for structural reinforcement for the additional lateral loading. To make use of the lower rear roll center you need to increase your rear spring rate (I used the recommended 300) and put in a stiffer rear bar (solid 24-25mm or the equivalent rate hollow). I'm not sure if my compression on my Koni DA's is soft enough, but I guess I'll find out.
Originally Posted by OldeSkool
Thanks for chiming in! I'm curious to know what you think once you drive it some. Does the UE kit require/include any bracing for the body mount point? I don't race, do you think SA's would suffice?
http://www.robmeadway.com/ you can see some pictures of the setup there.
Originally Posted by OldeSkool
Thanks for chiming in! I'm curious to know what you think once you drive it some. Does the UE kit require/include any bracing for the body mount point? I don't race, do you think SA's would suffice?
If you're not racing, I don't see the point of the LPHB setup. If your axle isn't centered, get a quality adjustable panhard bar and call it a day. Will the SA's work? Sure. Are they optimal? Doubtful. Are the DA's optimal? Doubtful. Will you notice the change in rear roll behavior by lowering the PHB? Yes! Will it be worth it? Only you can decide.
As a reminder, with the lowered rear roll center, you need stiffer springs and relatively low shock compression rates to accommodate the springs. Hopefully I'll have my car back next week and I'll start putting some miles on it.
Originally Posted by JimMueller
I've got the Unbalanced Engineering Lowering PHB kit. I haven't had much time to drive/race it since installation due to a clutch failure though.
Anyway, we'll have to compare notes sometime. My springs are "on the way", and so are my sway bars.
