trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Actually, here's a really bad picture of my brakes (taken with a camera phone, sorry about the quality). They are filthy in this picture (it's at an autocross event on 17x11's) and I've turned the rotors purple from the heat (so they are hard to see, they show up much better when they are shiny and haven't been abused like this). This kit has never let me down, even when turning the rotors the color you see here (and it looks great when it's clean ). I can tell you that the Precision Brakes kit will handle heat, and lots of it.

roy

I went with stock stuff from P-Car. Pads are PAGID RS44.
Front

Back

GXP Lover

Helps alot. That's exactly what I was wondering. So the pads are about the same as I've been paying for stock race-type pads, actually a little less (KFP gold's usually under $140) but the rotors are significantly more. This leads to another question though, with the better thermal properties of these rotors, do they last longer? I won't ask how much longer because there are just too many variables, but in general, would they last longer?

Thanks.

CamaroSS621

iTrader: (16)

it was me

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Hmm.

I know I'm not Victor, but seeking a "general" answer yields a lot of "it depends", that is unless you mean that with holding all other drving style variables within your control being the same (ceteris parabis). If all of your other variables are controlled, then the rotors should yield a slightly better life.

So far on my ST-40 kit, with using both street pads for street and race pads for track (bear in mind that I always use a proper pad-in when changing pads) the friction rings have lasted quite a while. I check them periodically, and they have yet to yield any warping or excessive runout.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

I notice that you have front and rear Porsche/Brembo calipers. Not to hijack or anything, but how's your brake balance? I am assuming that you might of changed your weight distribution in order to use that setup.

I'm looking towards something like you have since I am shifting a considerable amount of weight off the front nose and I've never liked the reliability of the stock rear caliper.

roy

Iam happy with it . Especially since I got the LGM torque arm mounted to the Ford Nine inch. I imagine the electoronics are working to cope with it.

GXP Lover

Thanks Foxxton. Yes, keeping all things as equal as possible. I should've been clearer in my hypothetical. I often have to answer questions with "it depends" so I should've known better...

VictorT

Hello,

Sorry about the delay... I have to say to Foxxton... Well put. Generally these rotors will last longer because they handle the heat better, and while a lot depends on what they are going through, they will give longer service than any OE rotors, plus they are lighter. Also I have available several diffrent types of rotors, so we can make sure you will be getting the best posible rotors for your driving needs. I think a really good example of how these rotors perform and last under severe conditions was given by trackbird when he showed us his brake system with blue rotors that are still performing flawlessly. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Regards,

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

No problem. I stated that in order not to appear that I'm impeding anyone or just flat out making assumptions.

BTW, there is another member here who uses a wilwood setup, and he runs them very hard, so hard that the anodising has worn off, however the calipers still appear okay, and most importantly, they work.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Victor, you're a hard working and valuable vendor around here and I know someone else who's considering a big brake kit, so when they're in the market, I'll send them your way.

Oh, and also to the forum members in general, bear in mind that while big brake kits can dramatically improve braking, having a good shock/spring combo with the shocks in good condition combined with a good tyre compound is essential to yield the most out of any brake system, especially with a big brake upgrade.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Those same rotors and pads are still on the car (daily driver). They have worn back to the silver color, never warped, and still work great (even after all my abuse at events this year). I'd run them until they turned dark blue, change tires and drive the car home and to work the next day.

They turned blue from running 1 minute autocross courses (with me and a co-driver, so the car saw double the runs) and after getting them good and hot (very hot?) while on course, at the end we had to stop from about 75-77 mph in a bit over 100 feet or so (this is possible on 315 Hoosier R compound tires) after the timers. After a couple runs, they get hot (and turn blue).

I haven't beat the anodizing off of the calpiers yet. I guess I have to run these things harder......

VictorT

Thanks for your support Foxxton... I will surely hook up your friend when he calls.

Regards,

VictorT

Sounds like you are really trying to put the screws to them... Do me a favor though, let me know when you finally get the anodizing to come off... That I want to see!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I'll keep you posted Victor!

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

I have the Baer GT+ setup with the 2-pc Eradispeed front rotors and Eradispeed rear rotors also. Essentially this is a C5 brake upgrade as the calipers=C5, pads=C5, rotors=same size as C5. Had to mod the spindles by cutting off a lug, grind the nose of the lower control arms so they wouldn't hit the inside surface of the rotors as they are quite a bit thicker than the stock F-Body rotors. Also had to grind half of the fins off the calipers to get them to clear my 17" TTII wheels

Price was $1100 on sale from sponsor. I was VERY unhappy that I had to grind the calipers to get them to work with the wheels - especially after I was told by Baer that they would fit with my wheels - no problem!

I am happy with the upgraded braking performance though and they look killer!





-Jay-

H8 LUZN

^^ yeah, it is quite obvious that the rotor surface is not fully being utilized..

Sorry to hear that man..

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

If you're talking about my Baer setup - that pics was taken shortly (next day) after install so the swept mark you see is where the rotor cladding that is applied to stop rust everywhere but in the firepath, had not completely wore thru to the rotor surface below. If you look at them now the cladding has worn off so that the swept path almost covers the full face of the rotor.