99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

First, I don't like how the stock brakes look, so I'll be doing rotors in the future...probably the Eradispeeds. Then I stumbled on some C5 brake info and found the kits to put them on LS1 FBodys. Is it worth it to swap them over? Will I even notice the difference in stopping power?

I thought it might be nice to do the Baer C5 rortors in front with new C5 calipers and the UMI brackets....and Baer FBody rotors in the back. I like how much closer the front caliper is moved to the wheel...it doesn't look so dinky.

I've searched around and it looks like I would have about $900 in the whole thing. Or, should I just do replacement rotors for looks and forget it?

Opinions?

Frosty

iTrader: (17)

I'm curious to see what others say as well. I just bought SS lines and I'm wondering if I should upgrade to the C5 stuff at the same time or just get good pads and call it a day

fasteddyss

iTrader: (1)

TTT interested too!!

jargan04

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is worth it. There are 2 kinds of kits. The LG Bolt on kit, lets you use the stock fbody calipers and just bolts to the spindle with out cutting it. The Track Bird/UMI style kit you must use C5 calipers and brackets. I had the LG kit and loved it. With it all you need is the brackets($249) and 2front C5 rotors. I did a complete LG kit install guide.

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

but arent the corvette calipers larger? i mean if you are going to a larger rotor, and using a caliper thats for a smaller rotor.. you are not increasing braking surface are you? i thought that was the whole idea of the uprade.. to increase over all brake pad to rotor contact..

some one help me see what the difference is by using the C5 caliper and the LS1 caliper

Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

I'm happy with mine. Need to do a better bleed, but they work great!

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Let's start by telling you that I've picked up UMI, and they have a very nice C5 Conversion kit.

Let me now tell you that by-in-large I wouldn't do it. If you want to, call me. But here's how I see it:

Most folks who do it see huge differences. Fine. However, those folks are upgrading from 100% stock parts. Pads, fluid, lines. Adding appropriate brake pads, some GOOD brake fluid and Stainless lines makes the stock brakes a lot more effective. And some do it because the warp F-body rotors. That's easily fixed with $65 each Brembo rotors.....

LS1's have, stock: 11.8" (which are called 12") vented rotors. Twin piston aluminum calipers, quite large brake pads.

C5 Brakes are: 12.8" (called 13") vented rotors. Twin piston aluminum calipers, and quite large brake pads.

The C5 pad is such a tiny bit smaller than an F-body pad it's funny (to me). The calipers are the very same design, though the C5 stuff is a little more rigid which isn't bad. And the rotors... they are larger, but that's not where most of the stopping power comes from.

Pads are really what stop the car. And those who have "kits" also have better than OEM pads too. Well, you can do that on your stock brakes too.

*Remember I have upgrade kits*. But I strongly recommend you make the OE brakes the best they can be first. If you still want more, fine. You can sell your F-body stuff, wait until it wears out, whatever. But, 95% of you will have all the brakes you'll ever need by using appropriate pad compounds and more performance oriented parts on the OEM brakes.

Xsta Z 28

iTrader: (2)

I totally aggee . . . I actually changed my brakes more for the "appearance" that the "performance" to be honest . . .

Silver99Z28

iTrader: (1)

I've bought the LG-brackets and will mount them soon.

The reason for me to get them was not only for the increased stopping power.

From my experience... Only two or three hard stoppings one after another from 130-160mph down to 55mph and fbody stock rotors are gone. The brakes are even fading in the first attempt.
When I had a Corvette C5 from my dealer I noticed, that the Corvette brakes are much stronger...

The dealer told me, that the C5 rotors are bigger and have better designed fins inside, so that they stay cooler...

I hope this was correct... I will find it out!

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

All valid reasons. However, pads fade...rotors don't. Bigger and better rotors will stay cooler and that keeps the pads cooler. BUT, OEM pad compounds are not up for much heat anyway. So, while your brakes will be improved, you would have been hugely better off with some pads suited for the job you were looking to do.

Silver99Z28

iTrader: (1)

Thank you... for this information!

So I will be even better prepared with C5-Rotors (that keep cooler) and better pads (that will resist the heat better)?
Is this correct?

What type of pads would be recommended for high speed / high temperature braking?

Holger

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

You could look at it that way. Of course if 500 HP doesn't hook up, what good does 550 HP do? Basically I firmly believe in using what works for the job. Anything more is wasted money. There are instances that C5 Brakes are more necessary than others. But if you need that much brake you are usually better off with a real 4-piston type setup too.

robertbartsch

What replacement pads are better than OEM for stock rotors and calipars?

How about those cheasie stock rubber brake lines - are SS braided lines the way to go?

I don't use brakes much, I guess - since my first set lasted over 45K miles. I'm still on the original clutch, flywheel and throw-out with over 400HP and seven years of service!

I must drive like an old guiser....

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

You name it. Hawk, PBR, Porterfield, there are even many non-performance pads that are better from Raybestos, Bendix, etc, etc. I have my favorites. PBR and one of the various Hawk compounds are the vast majority of what I sell for this car. But I use other things too. For those with C5 fronts, I use a lot of the Ferodo DS2500 compound (as well as the Hawks). It's situation dependent.

The brake lines are not just rubber. They are coated in rubber, but for some reasons folks don't know that they are braided fiberglass inside, not just plain rubber like a vacuum hose..... however, they do swell more than braided stainless lines do, so you can and do get better pedal feel with a change.

FWIW, the density of the pad material also effects pedal feel. Denser materials give a much firmer pedal.

And Fluid as well. It's a hydraulic fluid. And not all are equal. There are killer racing fluids that have very high boiling points, but are more compressible than other fluids and give a softer pedal. Then you add the absorbtion of moisture, which then boils to steam and makes things worse and fluid is not something to be overlooked.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

Thats for the info Sam.

What I would want to do is get the LG brackets, good pads, lines, and fluid...then get the Eradispeeds or Brembo C5 rotors for the front and fbody Eradispeeds/Brembos for the rear. But looking at what it would cost, it would be wiser to just keep saving and go with an aftermarket front setup from Baer or Wilwood.

Now I'm thinking of going with some drilled and slotted rotors (only for aesthetic reasons), PBR or HPS pads, stainless lines, and new fluid. Sound like a decent setup?

I'm looking for something that will give the brakes a positive feel and decent looks. It's not a track car but I think there is room for improvment over what the stock stuff is.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I ended up getting the PBR metal master pads for the LS1 and putting in ATE brake fluid. I am into autocrossing. So it worked well for the beginning of the season. Around the middle of the season, I got soft brakes again. Maybe because autoxing requires a lot of bleeding between events no matter what fluid is put in. It got bad enough that I hit the cones at the end of a stopbox and got a DNF. I had to begin braking earlier than the finish line so I wouldn't hit the stop box.

Who knows, I could have a separate problem for all i know

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Well, brake pads don't really go bad.... but as the wear down they sometimes loose some bite. But that takes about half or more of them to be gone. Very possible the way some drive.

But there are two HUGE causes for weak brakes in these cars. 1. worn front wheel bearings that kick the pads back, and give you a longer, softer pedal on the first hit of the brakes. And 2. binding, rusty slides and guides. Nobody ever thinks this happens. My car had one seized.... @ 23k miles and my car NEVER sees winter/salt. Just rain and spring/summer/fall days.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I run the PBR's also. I like them very much, and it's seems you did to, which it good and tells me it's not purely a coefficient of friction issue.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I sent you a PM Sam so I wouldn't hijack this thread

Frosty

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the info guys.

I probably won't do the C5 swap. I'll just buy a good set of pads and throw on the SS lines