99zman

iTrader: (23)

Hello i was wondering how the bmr sway bars are, i did a search but came up with only a little info, i just want something to make my car handle better than stock, my car is lowered with rk sports springs and i also will be getting new shocks and struts also. i dont want to be the next auto x champion, just want to make my car a little better. thanks in advance.

May Spin

A solid 32mm BMR bar will net a noticeable improvement over a stock 30mm. If you have an SS (32mm hollow) I wouldn't buy a BMR's bar.

BitViper

iTrader: (63)

Everyone says "Shocks will give you the bigest change" over stock..Id do the shock first..then move onto a swaybar...

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

I'd go with a Strano 35mm front bar, or Hotchkis 36.5mm. The Hotchkis will cost significantly more than the Strano bar.

DirtyBird222

iTrader: (7)

no bmr if your are cornering, if you are going into a strait line then ok! I got the strano hollow 35mm and what a difference it made! Night and Day!

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I say no BMR whether you are cornering or draging. It is heavy (not hollow) and too small to be stiff enough for cornering. See Rodriguez's post for good recomendations.

1QUIKWS6

iTrader: (61)

The 21mm BMR bar for the rear would be fine - I agree to go with the Strano 35mm hollow front. Don't go bigger than 21 on the rear though - it makes the car handle poorly

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Hold on there.... What you are looking for IMHO is a rear bar of around 21mm solid stiffness. He could buy a BMR 21 for the rear, and it would work well with my front. However, it's not cost effective, and would ride slightly harder than if he used my rear bar, which is a hollow, 4mm walled 22mm. And it weighs about 5 pounds less.

Why? Two reasons. I can ship my bars together, giving you just one freight charge. If you bought My front and their rear for instance, that's two shipping costs you pay for and that largely offsets their less expensive rear bar. Reason two is my bar is lighter, and where the rear bar is concerned that's all unsprung weight. The more unsprung weight the less well the suspension works. The axle won't move over bumps as easily and is harder for the compression damping in the shock to control. The result it more lead-footed ride and response. It's not terrible, but then again if you don't really save any money, why not get the lighter part and get the unsprung weight down?

I have a kit, or you can buy the bars separately. $199 for the front bar (Hollow 35, 6.25mm wall), $189 for the rear (Hollow 22, 4mm wall), or $379 for both (you'll note a slight discount for buying both.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

BTW, I don't think there is anything wrong with BMR bars themselves. I just do not agree on the sizes they used in front (and the front to rear ratio). Which is why I commissioned my own to be made to my specs. I'm a handling guy, that's what I and my car does and I need bar sets that fit that mold.

We carry 32mm front bars, I just rarely sell them. My reasoning is simple. The car likes more front bar. And Hollow 32's are easy to find, if you don't have one already. And the stiffness difference gained by changing the front isn't big enough to make it worthwhile.

99zman

iTrader: (23)

sam, i use this car as my toy, i drive it 99% on the street and i would like to take it to the drags once in a while, how would your bars or any bars affect 1/4 times and or 60ft times? would it make them worse or mabye a little better? thanks

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Hard to call.... and it really very much matters how much grip you have to begin with. If you are on street tires, and/or a poorly prepped track (or the street), you won't get hurt at all by the bars. The more grip you have, the more weight transfer comes into play. A car on ET Streets on a good track, with drag racing as a prime concern wouldn't want my front bar. On the other hand, they also often run NO bar. So the difference between what in the grand scheme of things are pretty large bars anyway (not 20mm fronts for instance) is pretty minor.

99% street is IMHO much more important than the 1% Drag racing (which seems isn't very serious) during which the bar likely wouldn't hurt you much, if at all.

The rear bar. Kind of the same. If the car doesn't have huge traction and make a big move to the right on launching you don't need a lot of rear bar. Already my bar is about 30% stiffer than the stock one. So if the car does try and move right (sitting on the RR on a launch), my rear bar will help some. But if the car doesn't have the traciton to begin with to do that, it won't matter either way.

*edited for poor spelling*

99zman

iTrader: (23)

sam what are the hours of your business? what is the best time to call you?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

11-7 Eastern Time. Best time to call... well. It's a good problem to have, but there is rarely any time that it's slow. Just call when you can. Hopefully I answer if you have specifc questions. If I don't, and you need to speak with me, just leave a message and I'll try you back. If you don't have specific questions, you can order from anyone (which would be my parents, Sam Sr. and Arlyn) since it's only us.