trans am road racers
#1
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trans am road racers
There is going to be a new 2.3 mile track opening in my hometown soon and I was wondering what I could do to my stock 02 WS6 to maybe help me take some turns better.
#2
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Really any suspension mod should help.
strut tower brace, subframe connectors, & stronger sway bars would probably help the most.
lower control arms, lowering springs, better shocks, & panhard bar would all help some too.
I'm not saying do all of them, but each part will help some.
strut tower brace, subframe connectors, & stronger sway bars would probably help the most.
lower control arms, lowering springs, better shocks, & panhard bar would all help some too.
I'm not saying do all of them, but each part will help some.
#4
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This is going to sound funny since you're only asking about suspension mods, but if you're trying to get around the track faster, I'd suggest brakes and tires first.
Tires will be your single biggest improvement as the only thing connecting your car to the track is your tires. Sticky tires (R compound) are a HUGE improvement. Plus I don't mind tracking them, that's what they're made for, as much as I do street tires with all the chunking and such. I was able to find some take off ws-6 wheels relatively cheap to mount them on so I don't have to drive to the track with them, if not trailering.
The next biggest improvement will be to get some high performance brake pads to withstand the heat you'll be generating and to have a higher friction coefficient. With these simple mods, I have been able to embarass some pretty expensive machinery on open track days/club weekends. And I have the $hitty LT1 brakes to deal with...
Anyway, hope this helps...
Tires will be your single biggest improvement as the only thing connecting your car to the track is your tires. Sticky tires (R compound) are a HUGE improvement. Plus I don't mind tracking them, that's what they're made for, as much as I do street tires with all the chunking and such. I was able to find some take off ws-6 wheels relatively cheap to mount them on so I don't have to drive to the track with them, if not trailering.
The next biggest improvement will be to get some high performance brake pads to withstand the heat you'll be generating and to have a higher friction coefficient. With these simple mods, I have been able to embarass some pretty expensive machinery on open track days/club weekends. And I have the $hitty LT1 brakes to deal with...
Anyway, hope this helps...
#5
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Don't worry about suspension upgrades right now. In stock form, you have a LOT of car underneath you.
Just make it a reliable, well prepped car.
Address the brakes. Some solid pads, like Carbotech XP8s and keep an eye on the rotors. Don't spend a bundle on exotic rotors. Just cheap ones from Autozone, O'Reilly's or NAPA will work just as well as Eradispeeds.
Change the PS fluid to Redline synthetic. Your PS system will take a beating.
Sign up early, find a good instructor (ask around) and be prepared to learn.
I never coach any of my students into buying R compounds early in their open track life. They stick very well, but give very little feedback until they lose traction. Street tires will yell and scream WAY before they lose complete traction. It helps the student learn the edge of both the car and himself.
Learn to read what your car is telling you. Look at the tires, pay attention to steering wheel input, look at the fluids ...
Once you understand what your car is telling you, THEN and ONLY then, should you begin to start working the suspension.
Good luck and be prepared to have the time of your life ...
Just make it a reliable, well prepped car.
Address the brakes. Some solid pads, like Carbotech XP8s and keep an eye on the rotors. Don't spend a bundle on exotic rotors. Just cheap ones from Autozone, O'Reilly's or NAPA will work just as well as Eradispeeds.
Change the PS fluid to Redline synthetic. Your PS system will take a beating.
Sign up early, find a good instructor (ask around) and be prepared to learn.
I never coach any of my students into buying R compounds early in their open track life. They stick very well, but give very little feedback until they lose traction. Street tires will yell and scream WAY before they lose complete traction. It helps the student learn the edge of both the car and himself.
Learn to read what your car is telling you. Look at the tires, pay attention to steering wheel input, look at the fluids ...
Once you understand what your car is telling you, THEN and ONLY then, should you begin to start working the suspension.
Good luck and be prepared to have the time of your life ...
#6
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if i were doing this.. here is my list of things i would do 1st .. at least this is MY list for what im doing in order of what i think is necessary..
1st.. brake pads (racing), replace rotors (if yours are warped)
2nd.. brake fluid change, braided brake lines (Super blue)
3rd.. shocks/struts (depending on what you have now, and what your budgets allows)
then go out and race and see how things are.. then do
4th.. springs(match them to the shocks)
5th.. bushings (if you need them)
6th.. sway bars
7th.. subframes
course this is just the suspension/brake list.. powersteering fluid/cooler and tires are a different list
1st.. brake pads (racing), replace rotors (if yours are warped)
2nd.. brake fluid change, braided brake lines (Super blue)
3rd.. shocks/struts (depending on what you have now, and what your budgets allows)
then go out and race and see how things are.. then do
4th.. springs(match them to the shocks)
5th.. bushings (if you need them)
6th.. sway bars
7th.. subframes
course this is just the suspension/brake list.. powersteering fluid/cooler and tires are a different list
#7
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Originally Posted by GR33N GoblinM6
if i were doing this.. here is my list of things i would do 1st .. at least this is MY list for what im doing in order of what i think is necessary..
1st.. brake pads (racing), replace rotors (if yours are warped)
2nd.. brake fluid change, braided brake lines (Super blue)
3rd.. shocks/struts (depending on what you have now, and what your budgets allows)
then go out and race and see how things are.. then do
4th.. springs(match them to the shocks)
5th.. bushings (if you need them)
6th.. sway bars
7th.. subframes
course this is just the suspension/brake list.. powersteering fluid/cooler and tires are a different list
1st.. brake pads (racing), replace rotors (if yours are warped)
2nd.. brake fluid change, braided brake lines (Super blue)
3rd.. shocks/struts (depending on what you have now, and what your budgets allows)
then go out and race and see how things are.. then do
4th.. springs(match them to the shocks)
5th.. bushings (if you need them)
6th.. sway bars
7th.. subframes
course this is just the suspension/brake list.. powersteering fluid/cooler and tires are a different list
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#8
Originally Posted by stang killer
Dosent take much to make the fluid boil as the car sits now.
#10
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I forgot about the frailities of the PS pump. Mine boiled the fluid and the fluid caught fire around the reseviour when I was out at Mosport... Unfortunately, I drove there.
Anyway, I guess I assumed all fluids would be changed. It usually says such on the event forms you sign up with, at least the club level.
Do what you want for tires. You'll eventually have to learn the limits of the new R compound tires...
Anyway, I guess I assumed all fluids would be changed. It usually says such on the event forms you sign up with, at least the club level.
Do what you want for tires. You'll eventually have to learn the limits of the new R compound tires...