what usually causes the line lock not to hold? its not leaking, it all wired up,but it doesnt hold no matter how hard i push the brake when i engage it. any ideas what to look at? its an slp line lock, so the name speaks for itself, but i would still expect it to work at least the first time.

 

Take the solinod loose, and turn it over and hook it back up. It should work then. Sounds like it's hooked up backwards.

 

even if it barely holds? if it were backwards, then it wouldnt hold at all would it? its hold, but not under pressure..what its made for

 

If it's in backwards it will hold some but not enough to hold the car. Take it loose and flip it over. It should work fine after that.

 

hmm..so then the slp logo should be upside down?

 

My first line lock was an SLP and I had the same problem. I switched it around and cured the problem. It worked fine after that. I think that's your problem, should be a simple fix.

 

i hope its that easy

 

I have the very same problem with my Hurst LinLoc. The first couple times I used it after the install all I had to do was press the brake pedal once while engaging loc and it would hold.

Then it got to the point where I have to pump the brakes up before engaging - and even after that sometimes it won't hold.

The solenoid can't possibly be worn out because I don't use the loc very often. Only way to get it to hold is that after engaging - I have to give the car enough gas to make the tires break loose/lose traction very quickly and then it will be fine.

If I give it gas gradually the tires grip enough prior to spinning to push the car forward even with the loc engaged. I have been told by bystanders that the front wheels are NOT turning - but they are just skidding while locked along the pavement? I find that hard to believe even with the numbers in my sig

 

well i did try to ease into it rather than to break the tires loose...ill give it a shot. thanks.

 

When you say 'flip it around' do you mean reverse the 'IN' and 'OUT' lines or just loosen the nuts and rotate the entire unit so that the solenoid is pointing 'DOWN' instead of 'UP' but keeping the In & Out lines connected as they are?

And if there is a right way and a wrong way to hook these up - why in the hell don't they put that in the instructions?

 

i went according to the pic and shitty instructions. it said the bigger 1/2 up and the smaller on bottom.

 

Maybe someone that has a loc that is working correctly could post a pic of the orientation of the solenoid?

 

that would help out alot!

 

Yes, just take the top and bottom lines loose and turn the solinod 180* from vertical, and reinstall the top and bottom lines.

There were alot of complaints with the SLP line locks not holding. The problem supposedly was the picture in the instuctions were wrong. The fix was to flip it over. It worked for me. I never had anymore trouble with it not holding.

 

i'll take a pic right now. for you guys

 

took a pic with my cell phone real quick.



the SLP sticker on mine is on the bottom, and where the wires hook up is above it. hope this helps.

on a side note i gotta keep re-tightening this damn thing, maybe 3-4 times allready. it leaks from the fittings, it's pissing me off.

 

Yep...thats the way I remember it.

 

Thanx for the pic! Now I see where my confusion came from. I have the Hurst LinLoc which has the In & Out ports perpendicular to the solenoid body instead of inline with the body as the SLP version - don't know if the flipping technique is valid for my linloc...

 

thats how mine is set. i guess i got it right. maybe i just need to give it more rpm and not ease into it, but then again, i shouldnt have to do that should i?

 

i had the same issue with mine, would hold some pressure but not enough to let me burnout.