Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

That's your problem with the rear because it's 10.5" being fitted into a wheel well that handles 9.5" max without modification. You maybe can adjust the PHB more if that allows, but otherwise you'll have to resort to maybe rolling the inner well. If custom looks aren't the plan then cutting is unecessary. Also be advised that using OE shocks with any aftermarket OE replacement spring of a different height and rate is an absolute no no as far as the shock's performance is concerned because there is simply not enough dampening to reduce the springs oscillation, so that's probably another reason for your bottoming out. I'd also like to mention that your shocks could be very old, so you are due for a replacement as well. If you plan on staying with the pro-kit, you really ought to consider either revlaved Strano Bilsteins or Koni SA's. It's a hard pill to swallow, but that's the way physics work. Fender rolling in your case should be a last resort.

In all due respect and FYI, that statement revealed that you not only neglected to take into account whether the wheels will fit properly, but also how much they really weigh. You have confused mass for weight by referencing the typing the fact that they are 3 piece forged wheels, so they must be lighter which isn't always the case. Yes for the same wheels size using less of the same material volume, forging can be lighter, however forged wheels are denser, so if comparing both wheels of the same volume and alloy, the forged one will yield more mass, thus be heavier, sound familiar? Have you indeed compared two different wheel weights? Also I'd also mention that a narrower sidewall needs to be stiffer, which in turn can contribute to added rotational mass and weight from the tyre as well.

Also, bear in mind that the even if the wheels are at least 5lbs. lighter each than a OE Z06 17x9.5 (don't we wish?) the fact that the rim's mass is pushed further the towards outside diameter will yield a much higher rotating mass, so even if the wheel is lighter than their 16" and 17" counterparts, most of the weight and mass will be towards the outside of the wheel, which can result in increased braking distances (not good).

John_D.

iTrader: (2)

Actually I think it's supposed to help balance the car when you're driving alone. The engine and tranny are pushed over to the passenger side a bit, I'm presuming to help balance the load...

ssPetess

iTrader: (8)

[QUOTE=Foxxton]That's your problem with the rear because it's 10.5" being fitted into a wheel well that handles 9.5" max without modification. You maybe can adjust the PHB more if that allows, but otherwise you'll have to resort to maybe rolling the inner well. If custom looks aren't the plan then cutting is unecessary. Also be advised that using OE shocks with any aftermarket OE replacement spring of a different height and rate is an absolute no no as far as the shock's performance is concerned because there is simply not enough dampening to reduce the springs oscillation, so that's probably another reason for your bottoming out. I'd also like to mention that your shocks could be very old, so you are due for a replacement as well. If you plan on staying with the pro-kit, you really ought to consider either revlaved Strano Bilsteins or Koni SA's. It's a hard pill to swallow, but that's the way physics work. Fender rolling in your case should be a last resort.

Very precise info. I say go out and buy a double rod ended APHB, it makes a world of difference. You'd be suprised how much even a single rod ended bar will compress with a poly bushing. I also say get rid of the pro-kit rears, I tried everything to get mine to work with out rubbing, I finally ordered DMS rears and my problems are gone. Good luck with whatever you try...

wilwhite2kss

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=ssPetess]I think i might have to take your advise , and look into new springs.