New UMI adj. torque arm installed
#1
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New UMI adj. torque arm installed
It is sweet! It plants the rear tires HARD and doesn't let the front end nose dive on breaking. Set the pinion angle at -.5 degrees and have not exerienced any terrible vibrations as many people said they had.
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Originally Posted by Speed Density
I have to order the trans. mount since im running an xpipe, is there going to be a downside to not getting chassis mount.
Yeah, broken tailshafts.
Picture a pair of scissors. That's what your Torque arm and trans try to do on a hard launch.
Not saying it's definitely going to happen, but it's **** poor design geometry from a drag racing perspective.
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I have the chassis mounted one also. I can also testify that it is a very stout piece. That along with my other susp. mods have definitly helped 100X better traction. I can honestly say the torque arm has contributed most to it.
Ski
Ski
#11
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Originally Posted by ed317
Was it hard to to install?Did it come with good directions?Did angle finder come with T/a?
I got this from a board member who bought it and never installed it. It was essentially brand new, but if they come with an angle finder, then he removed it from the package - but I don't think he did that.
I have an angle finder from previous Torque Arm installs.
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i've got a similar question.
i've got stainless works lt's and a moser 12 bolt. which torque arm will i need to buy.
car has been lowered, and has relocation brackets, panhard bar, shocks, and springs, but no torque arm yet.
do i need the chasis mount or the trans mount?
i've got stainless works lt's and a moser 12 bolt. which torque arm will i need to buy.
car has been lowered, and has relocation brackets, panhard bar, shocks, and springs, but no torque arm yet.
do i need the chasis mount or the trans mount?
#19
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Is it possible to run an X pipe witha chassis mount? Without having **** for ground clearance?
Originally Posted by TWS
Yeah, broken tailshafts.
Picture a pair of scissors. That's what your Torque arm and trans try to do on a hard launch.
Not saying it's definitely going to happen, but it's **** poor design geometry from a drag racing perspective.
Picture a pair of scissors. That's what your Torque arm and trans try to do on a hard launch.
Not saying it's definitely going to happen, but it's **** poor design geometry from a drag racing perspective.
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Originally Posted by wvaboy
i've got a similar question.
i've got stainless works lt's and a moser 12 bolt. which torque arm will i need to buy.
car has been lowered, and has relocation brackets, panhard bar, shocks, and springs, but no torque arm yet.
do i need the chasis mount or the trans mount?
i've got stainless works lt's and a moser 12 bolt. which torque arm will i need to buy.
car has been lowered, and has relocation brackets, panhard bar, shocks, and springs, but no torque arm yet.
do i need the chasis mount or the trans mount?
I have the same headers that you have, and I had a hell of a time fitting the Y pipe, I had to cut a piece out on the passenger side section to get it to fit somewhat. As a result I have great clearance on the passenger side, but I think the whole thing kinda hangs lower than it should. Because of that I got a Spohn Adjustable torque arm made for cars with headers....that's the one with the cross member in a "curved" shape for extra clearance.
Not sure if a straight crossmember would clear in my case. This is of course a Spohn Torque Arm, the UMI piece which is straight seems to have more clearance in straight configuration than the Spohn piece has....too bad UMI I didn't have a TA yet when I bought mine, otherwise I would have gone with theirs.
As for ground clearance....my car is NOT lowered, it is however a 98 and because of that it does sit an inch lower in the back than my buddies 99 Z28. So, since your car is lowered, better have a good look at this picture:
You can see how low the crossmember hangs. I have it all kinds of things with that thing already, and it sure has the battle scars to prove it. If you go with a chassis mounted TA, you need to be VERY careful where you, especially since your car is lowered.
Last thing, I noticed all the other guys that posted pictures of their TA's that they used the factory bolts, which are cutting it very close as far as length goes. The nut doesn't catch every thread since the bolt is too short. I sprung for the longer bolts from Spohn, and I think everyone who doesn't want the tail end of their TA to break should do the same.
Manny