99WS7

iTrader: (13)

whos using them and are the worth it. I want to stiffen up my TA a lot. Seen some people use them and others dont, just wanted to hear some opinions on them.

billyb

iTrader: (15)

hi i just got a spohn rear drag bar sway bar what a diff feels like i didn't even have one before and all spohn rear mods good quailty billyb www.spohn.com ck it out.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

"stiffen" what?

What handling characteristic is the car demonstrating that makes you "think" you need a change?

"Stiffen" up my car is like saying I want more HP ... you have to identify the weak areas and address them.

Or, you could just throw a shitload of cash at it and hope for the best ... it's what most people do.

99WS7

iTrader: (13)

well I have the pro kit springs when I get up to high speed like 100+ the body floats and sways alot. I have a rear control arms but I need relocation brakcets, I have the spohn rear pan hard bar and right now I'm looking at the UMI subframes. I'm also looking to replace the shocks and struts. But my main question is for those that have a front sway bar (over the motor) and if they like it and think it was worth it. Thanks

May Spin

If you are still using the DeCarbons to dampen the Eibach's that's your biggest issue and responsible almost entirely for the floating feel at speed, and should be addressed before anything else, period. Infact the stock shocks did such a **** poor job at controling the stock spring rates, replacing them will net the single biggest improvement when controling the car, overall ride quality and high speed stability.

If you feel you need more roll control for your current spring rates, a larger front swaybar works wonders. There is only two I would consider, Strano bar and Hotchkis. All others are either too small or too heavy, or both. For balance a rear bar can be added to compliment the front. I've experimented with no bigger than a 22mm hollow, but I wouldn't want any larger. A 21mm solid is a cheaper alternative.

Listen to Mitchntx.... Slow down and condsider what you are going to do with the car, address the specific problem and add or replace components appropriately. You listed a whole bunch of parts, and honestly only two makes sense, shocks and panhard bar (hope it's adjustable). SFC's?... Does your chassis flex that much? Relocation brackets?... Are you really getting wheel hop? And a STB.... Well that's been discussed to death, I'll promise you at this point in the game it's the last thing you should be considering.

Scott.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

That bar over the motor is called a shock tower brace or STB or DWN (Dead Weight on the Nose).

Don't waste your money.

Be careful when purchasing sway bars. If you go too big on the front, the car will be stiff, alright. But it won't turn. More spring rate upfront (a bigger sway bar adds spring rate) will cause the car to push. Likewise, a bigger bar in back will loosen the car up.

Scott nailed it, though.

The floating feeling you have at high speeds is a combination of lowsy spring rates and terrible shocks.

The springs support the corner weights of the car. as you go over small imperfections in the roadway, the spring compresses and then "pushes" the car's weight away. Momentum will cause the spring to extend further than factory length and so goes the pendulum ... and the higher the speed, the worse it gets.

Shocks, dampen (or control) the spring compression and rebound.

It all works together. Change any single component and the package changes.

You cannot "feel" subtle changes in handling, especially on a street car. The only definitive way to solidify your car's handling characteristics is to spend time on a closed course so that results can be measured running the same course under the same conditions.

99WS7

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the info guys, very helpfull. What would you recomend for shocks?

LoWeLL216

iTrader: (1)

Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing, a front sway bar is not over the motor, that's a strut tower brace. A front sway bar connects underneath. As far a a strut tower brace, I have one, but didn't notice any difference with it. Noticed a big difference with my sway bars, but like the other guys said decide what you want to do with the car before just randomly picking suspension parts as it changes things alot.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

With the ProKit, either Sam Strano revalved Bilsteins or buy Koni single adjustable shocks from him. www.stranoparts.com

99WS7

iTrader: (13)

[QUOTE=LoWeLL216]Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing, a front sway bar is not over the motor, that's a strut tower brace. A front sway bar connects underneath. As far a a strut tower brace, I have one, but didn't notice any difference with it. Noticed a big difference with my sway bars, but like the other guys said decide what you want to do with the car before just randomly picking suspension parts as it changes things alot.[/QUOTE

Sorry, I think I worded it wrong but everyone helped answer questions on both.

I have herd good things about both those shocks. I think I need to talk to sam again now that I have an idea what I want to go with. Thanks again for the help guys...

Bud M

iTrader: (1)

I can't imagine anybody not being happy with a stiffer front swaybar on a 4th gen. The only question is how much stiffer is right for you. I wasn't happy with the ST 35 solid, but Strano's 35 hollow is just right IMO.

May Spin

For those looking for added roll control for any spring rate I would be suprised why anyone would not like the function of ST's 35mm bar. I would imagine it's marginally stiffer than Srano's bar. I would never use ST's bar however, way too heavy