Brake experts only!!!
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From: houston dayton texas
Brake experts only!!! ABS inop, tcs off brake lights are all on! these are the codes its throwing
c1345 RHT channel will not move
c1346 adjust assembly will not move
....but I cant figure out what these are talking about..any ideas..I thought that I had a bad abs module but I don't so I need to figure out what's this is talking about
c1345 RHT channel will not move
c1346 adjust assembly will not move
....but I cant figure out what these are talking about..any ideas..I thought that I had a bad abs module but I don't so I need to figure out what's this is talking about
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Atlanta
This just happened all of the sudden or did you change something out?
I've found that by the power of google and having the codes, I've been able to solve every problem I've ever had with my last 4 cars.
take the codes and your symptoms and google them. keep digging!
Sorry I'm not much help otherwise...
I've found that by the power of google and having the codes, I've been able to solve every problem I've ever had with my last 4 cars.
take the codes and your symptoms and google them. keep digging!
Sorry I'm not much help otherwise...
Thread Starter
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From: houston dayton texas
It just happened.. I didn't replace or change anything
ok..update...I have to replace the freaking module..I love gm...by the way..anybody got a 98 module for sale with traction control..I don't think I have the $800 + they cost new.. the tech. reason behind the 1345 code is there a value in the module that moves from one side to the other when it runs thought the test cycle...apparently this valve is stuck...as far as the other is concerned it means the same thing...basically more money...so there ..just incase anybody else has this problem...oh and one more thing I found..these codes...are for a 97 year model...98 and above are totally different...so I wander if I replace it with a 99-2002 module would it work...since they have there own computer built in..I would not think that it would care what the other PCM would be...but thats what im thinking anyways.. but first im going to try to find a 98..which I think would be really a 97...but thats going to require more checking..
ok..update...I have to replace the freaking module..I love gm...by the way..anybody got a 98 module for sale with traction control..I don't think I have the $800 + they cost new.. the tech. reason behind the 1345 code is there a value in the module that moves from one side to the other when it runs thought the test cycle...apparently this valve is stuck...as far as the other is concerned it means the same thing...basically more money...so there ..just incase anybody else has this problem...oh and one more thing I found..these codes...are for a 97 year model...98 and above are totally different...so I wander if I replace it with a 99-2002 module would it work...since they have there own computer built in..I would not think that it would care what the other PCM would be...but thats what im thinking anyways.. but first im going to try to find a 98..which I think would be really a 97...but thats going to require more checking..
I have a '98 module off my car, but I don't have traction control.
I didn't think it made a difference though. Seems like that would be in the abs computer under the console, not in the abs modulator assembly under the hood.
I didn't think it made a difference though. Seems like that would be in the abs computer under the console, not in the abs modulator assembly under the hood.
It does matter. The ABS computer is actually attached to the module under the hood. And the systems are different for with and without traction control. With uses a 4 input system with 4 wheel speed sensors. Without only has 3 inputs. The two front wheels and a third sensor monitoring the ring gear in the rear end.
Try ebay. I have seen them go for under $200.
Try ebay. I have seen them go for under $200.
Wow what a nightmare. I hope this is not my problem (C0045 left rear speed sensor circuit malfunction). I went through the AllData flow chart ohming & checking voltage and it told me to replace the EBCM (abs control module thing). How the hell does breaking a 10 bolt make it go bad all of a sudden?
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Make sure it's a Bosch 5.1 ABS module. Some of the later V6's may have had them. You can also get them rebuilt, but it too costs some to do that and there are probably no guarantees a rebuild will work (but when it does, it beats having to shell out 1600 dollars for a new one though).
Last edited by Foxxtron; May 23, 2006 at 06:44 PM.
Originally Posted by keliente
...How the hell does breaking a 10 bolt make it go bad all of a sudden?
Originally Posted by 70 LS1
Don't know. I can look in my books when I get home. Did the V6's even have TC?
Originally Posted by Foxxtron
Probably more from the age and/or a short circuit, however any type of excessive rear wheel spin that is detected from the sensors compared to the front will obviously trigger the module (after all, I or anyone who's at least had some sort of dyno work done, including yearly smog tests in California, will have this type of activity done on their car), but AFA causing the module to become defective in it's own right is highly unlikely (from my experience, and I run both of my f-bodies hard).
I'm hunting around on eBay.
On that note...when you install a new ABS module can you bleed the brakes the traditional way, or do you need a Tech 2 to bleed the module? I ask because @ work, with the Chrysler minivans you need the scan tool in order to bleed the abs properly.
Tech 2 isn't required from my experience and these others:
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...hl=brake+bleed
http://www.mfba.org/showthread.php?t=42553
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...hl=brake+bleed
Since you have one you could use it, but I have used the methods described above for the bench bleed methods to rid the air from the ABS module and they've worked (being cautious of course). The big trick is to not use the brake pedal when turning on the car first for a few minutes. When you start again and operate the vehicle (away from traffic
), the ABS module should "check" then "reset" its pistons. Return to work area, then bleed accordingly.
When I performed this, the brake light went out after the last step and I had a firmer brake pedal than previous (mostly due to upgraded brake fluid).
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...hl=brake+bleed
http://www.mfba.org/showthread.php?t=42553
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...hl=brake+bleed
Since you have one you could use it, but I have used the methods described above for the bench bleed methods to rid the air from the ABS module and they've worked (being cautious of course). The big trick is to not use the brake pedal when turning on the car first for a few minutes. When you start again and operate the vehicle (away from traffic
), the ABS module should "check" then "reset" its pistons. Return to work area, then bleed accordingly.When I performed this, the brake light went out after the last step and I had a firmer brake pedal than previous (mostly due to upgraded brake fluid).
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From: houston dayton texas
Well I found one on here for $55 shipped..thanks to a member...I should have it in this sat so next week some time it will be on. What kind of brake fluid did you use Foxxtron, just wandering. If im going to have to put new fluid in, it might as well help me a little.
Motul DOT 5.1. I doubt any of you with the most aggresive street driving will ever exceed the boiling point of this. If you do AX and probably think you'll need something with a higher boiling point, then there is RBF 600 or their DOT 4 equivalents. Even then I doubt you'll exceed DOT either dry or wet boiling points of DOT 5.1.
Whatever anybody here does, DO NOT USE DOT 5.
Whatever anybody here does, DO NOT USE DOT 5.
