Front lower perches on shock install won't fit over top of shock?
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Front lower perches on shock install won't fit over top of shock?
So I've now got all the parts I needed (shock boots and lower perches) to finish up the install but now I've got a new problem. How tight are the perches supposed to be on this shock? Do I have to literally beat these things on? Just by setting the perch on top of the new Bilstein and lining it up, it doesn't look like it will fit over the top even with serious hammering Anyone have any suggestions?
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Well I tried some honing on the perch but I'm kind of uneasy on how much I should take off. I don't want to hone to much of it out and not have it catch on that ring around the bottom of the shock
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
Can you take some pictures?
-Mike
-Mike
I did a little grinding on the top plate trying to alleviate some of the lip that was on there
Not sure how far I should grind on the inside as I'm pretty sure the ring on the shock should rest on the little bit of lip that is there
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For the love of God. Take the gold cap off, it just taps off..... Put the perch on, put the cap on. This really isn't all that complicated.
I hope like hell you didn't screw up the perches, but I'm thinking you did. I would not run them on any car if you ground on them at all. They support the weight of the car, and if they don't fit right (and it's a tight fit to start with), you will have serious problems. Get new perches. Get a service manual. Read it, and PLEASE don't rely on the internet.
I hope like hell you didn't screw up the perches, but I'm thinking you did. I would not run them on any car if you ground on them at all. They support the weight of the car, and if they don't fit right (and it's a tight fit to start with), you will have serious problems. Get new perches. Get a service manual. Read it, and PLEASE don't rely on the internet.
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OMG!
Did those shocks have instructions? There should never be ANY grinding, honing required to do that or to install any otherwise "good" part. Did you attempt to even call Bilstein for help?
Please be cautious when doing this type of install.
Did those shocks have instructions? There should never be ANY grinding, honing required to do that or to install any otherwise "good" part. Did you attempt to even call Bilstein for help?
Please be cautious when doing this type of install.
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#8
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There are no instructions.... It's very simple, the parts just come off the OEM shocks (which he didn't have) and get put onto the Bilstein's. And that's how Bilstein's are for this car no matter where they come from. Further, work is generally done by folks with training and manuals, so it's generally not an issue. So in this case, there wasn't the advantage of seeing how it should have been.... Which is even more reason why you need a service manual.
But more than once a month I get calls from folks (even mechanics) who just sometimes don't see it. I admit I have moments in life when I don't see the forest through the trees as well....
But more than once a month I get calls from folks (even mechanics) who just sometimes don't see it. I admit I have moments in life when I don't see the forest through the trees as well....
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
For the love of God. Take the gold cap off, it just taps off..... Put the perch on, put the cap on. This really isn't all that complicated.
I hope like hell you didn't screw up the perches, but I'm thinking you did. I would not run them on any car if you ground on them at all. They support the weight of the car, and if they don't fit right (and it's a tight fit to start with), you will have serious problems. Get new perches. Get a service manual. Read it, and PLEASE don't rely on the internet.
I hope like hell you didn't screw up the perches, but I'm thinking you did. I would not run them on any car if you ground on them at all. They support the weight of the car, and if they don't fit right (and it's a tight fit to start with), you will have serious problems. Get new perches. Get a service manual. Read it, and PLEASE don't rely on the internet.
So the Gold cop just taps off? And I guess that's just common knowledge with shocks then Funny that nothing came up in any searches and the Bilstein instructions never mentioned that I could take the cap off without damaging the shock. So a tech manual would have mentioned that I need to do this?
I'm not meaning to be rude here, I'm a very detailed oriented person and I pretty much have to be with the job I hold. Some things that are very obvious to you will not always be obvious to someone less experienced. If you've ever had to deal with tech support you'll know what I'm talking about.
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Okay, that's what I thought about the instructions. I now remember that I too went off my service manual like you mentioned, since my HD's sit around here in case one of my cars needs them on again.
Even so, I still think that work like this is opposite from "cooking" (where it's easy to add, and very difficult to remove). When grinding and honing, it's easy to remove, but very hard to reverse.
Even so, I still think that work like this is opposite from "cooking" (where it's easy to add, and very difficult to remove). When grinding and honing, it's easy to remove, but very hard to reverse.
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Originally Posted by Hobb3s
This may not be complicated for someone that may have some mechanical knowledge of suspension systems, but for someone that has NEVER done a shock/spring swap before it's pretty foreign to me.
So the Gold cop just taps off? And I guess that's just common knowledge with shocks then Funny that nothing came up in any searches and the Bilstein instructions never mentioned that I could take the cap off without damaging the shock. So a tech manual would have mentioned that I need to do this?
I'm not meaning to be rude here, I'm a very detailed oriented person and I pretty much have to be with the job I hold. Some things that are very obvious to you will not always be obvious to someone less experienced. If you've ever had to deal with tech support you'll know what I'm talking about.
So the Gold cop just taps off? And I guess that's just common knowledge with shocks then Funny that nothing came up in any searches and the Bilstein instructions never mentioned that I could take the cap off without damaging the shock. So a tech manual would have mentioned that I need to do this?
I'm not meaning to be rude here, I'm a very detailed oriented person and I pretty much have to be with the job I hold. Some things that are very obvious to you will not always be obvious to someone less experienced. If you've ever had to deal with tech support you'll know what I'm talking about.
#13
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The cap is for the bumpstop to contact, the top of the shock is not flat without it. And Bilstein's do not come with bumpstops, you re-use GM ones (and that's if you can even find Bilstein's anyway).
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#14
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Can a flat washer be used in place of the cap?
Bottom line is I need the entire body to be under 2.1" in diameter so an air bag will slide over it. The stock gold cap has that ridge that sticks out. Maybe a thick flat washer can be glued into place?
So everyone who's got Bilstein shocks are using them with the stock bumpstop? That's horrible. They are way too stiff, not progressive and reduce usable wheel travel at least 3/8".
Are the shocks hard to get at the moment?
Bottom line is I need the entire body to be under 2.1" in diameter so an air bag will slide over it. The stock gold cap has that ridge that sticks out. Maybe a thick flat washer can be glued into place?
So everyone who's got Bilstein shocks are using them with the stock bumpstop? That's horrible. They are way too stiff, not progressive and reduce usable wheel travel at least 3/8".
Are the shocks hard to get at the moment?