poly bushing
Are you talking upper or lower a-arm? I had both on my car, however I took them out. As much as I like a slick handling car, the combination of poly bushings, stiff sidewalled "Z" rated tires, and poor roads where I live, made for a bad mix.
The installation wasn't too hard, if you've ever done anything like that before, you'll easily figure it out. The horizontal bushing is best remover in a bench press, however.
The installation wasn't too hard, if you've ever done anything like that before, you'll easily figure it out. The horizontal bushing is best remover in a bench press, however.
From my experience, the poly bushings didn't last longer than the rubber, required constant greasing, and created unecessary bind, which some improperly detect as "tighter feeling", when in reality causes poor suspension articulation.
I suggest looking at either Moog problem solver bushings and/or TRW replacement bushings. With the last 4th Gens rolling off the assembly line at around 2002, it's about that time to replace them.
I suggest looking at either Moog problem solver bushings and/or TRW replacement bushings. With the last 4th Gens rolling off the assembly line at around 2002, it's about that time to replace them.
Really? I would have anticipated well greased poly being better as far as articulation is concerned.
What's the difference between Moogs, TRW and stocker replacment bushings?
It looks pretty straight forward. Am I right? Just take apart the spring/strut, pull the arms off and squeeze in/out with the bushings?
What's the difference between Moogs, TRW and stocker replacment bushings?
It looks pretty straight forward. Am I right? Just take apart the spring/strut, pull the arms off and squeeze in/out with the bushings?
That's right Tobynine, well greasing the poly won't change it's bind characteristics. Heck, from what I and others in the AX and RR world have tried, they didn't last longer, and worse, they deformed (cold-flowed). Why add extra suspension bind, when it isn't desirable at all? If it's firmness of "feel" you're looking for, let properly valved shocks perform that duty like it's supposed to.
AFA the Moogs, TRW, and stockers, there is probably not as much difference in the rubber being used, however my preference is for the Moog problem solvers.
It is straightforward, provided you are familiar with how the front lower A-arm is assembled to the shock, k-member,(EDIT: tie rod end), and front spindle, they should come off, however, AFA pressing the bushings in and out, you'll need to perform this with an arbor press very carefully to ensure that you press the old ones out, then press the new ones in. Depending on how torn up the older rubber bushings are, there might be a detectable difference in "feel", but most importantly, proper suspension movement.
EDIT: tie rod end, see above paragraph
AFA the Moogs, TRW, and stockers, there is probably not as much difference in the rubber being used, however my preference is for the Moog problem solvers.
It is straightforward, provided you are familiar with how the front lower A-arm is assembled to the shock, k-member,(EDIT: tie rod end), and front spindle, they should come off, however, AFA pressing the bushings in and out, you'll need to perform this with an arbor press very carefully to ensure that you press the old ones out, then press the new ones in. Depending on how torn up the older rubber bushings are, there might be a detectable difference in "feel", but most importantly, proper suspension movement.
EDIT: tie rod end, see above paragraph
Last edited by Foxxtron; Jun 12, 2006 at 05:22 PM. Reason: include forgotten detail
