Red Dragon

I was thinking about buying the Eradi Speed rotors for my WS6. My question is are these rotors lighter and better than the stock ones, like Baer claims, or should I save my money.

I know the stock ones are good, but i want alittle bit more, but not over powered either <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

1COOLPC

I have them on my car, check my link below.

I've found that they provide similar braking to the stock rotors but that's OK because the stock rotors are fairly large to begin with.

The benefits I've found is that hopefully they will resist warping better. So far so good. I warp the stock rotors 3 times before gettin these so that's what I'm hoping for. Plus they look cool.

The fronts were about 3 pounds lighter than the stock rotors and the rears were about 1/2 pound lighter. Not a lot but every little bit helps with unsprung weight.

They are expensive and are only worth it if you really want them badly. I'm glad I have mine.

z0sense

iTrader: (1)

The theory behind cross drilled/slotted rotors is that the additional surfaces area they create will reduce temps while braking, and they will dissipate heat faster.

With the right brake fluid you should be fine (helps the spongy feeling you get when the fluid starts to boil) with the stock rotors. If you do a lot of high speed breaking they will benefit you some (this also applies if you use the breaks alot - this would cause a rapid heat build up). Most of the time people buy the rotors for appearance rather then performance. If you jam on the break no matter what speed you are going, you take the risk of warping your rotor!

Warping is caused due to heat....so don't jam on the breaks and you should be fine. I run my car at 170 almost daily and have no real probs with stock rotors.....but then again I have break cooling ducts!

Also remember that a complete break system with new calipers and such is a whole new ball game! These really do make a difference in the way the car stops, but unless you are road racing they really aren't needed. Usually a rotor swap is pointless.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

sense ... where do you road race your car ... to achieve 170? MSR isn't big enough to handle those speeds. I can get 110 to 115 in my TA there.

Curious ...

For a good replacement that does a great job at preventing warpage, go to Autozone. Several of us F-Body driver have PUNISHED these rotors with Hawk Blues and Carbotech Panther Plus pads. Noone has warped a rotor yet ... we've cracked a few, but never warped them.

kmdracer

hey mitchntx, which rotors are you using from autozone? Checked their site and found AIMCO and RAYBESTOS_PG_PLUS. I definitly need better rotors than stock. Am on my 3rd set now in 40,000 miles. I don't really get on them that hard and do little top speed driving, so I haven't been able to figure out why they warp. A honda racer friend asked me if I torque my rims. I do to 100 ft/lb Is this correct? Thanks

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Aimcos ... haven't tried the Raybestos.

I torque my lugs to 90ft/lbs because they get so God aweful hot and I change tires so often.

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1COOLPC:
<strong>The fronts were about 3 pounds lighter than the stock rotors and the rears were about 1/2 pound lighter. Not a lot but every little bit helps with unsprung weight.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Was that 3 pounds for each front rotor or for both combined??

z0sense

iTrader: (1)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by mitchntx:
<strong>sense ... where do you road race your car ... to achieve 170? MSR isn't big enough to handle those speeds. I can get 110 to 115 in my TA there.

Curious ...

For a good replacement that does a great job at preventing warpage, go to Autozone. Several of us F-Body driver have PUNISHED these rotors with Hawk Blues and Carbotech Panther Plus pads. Noone has warped a rotor yet ... we've cracked a few, but never warped them.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I am sorry I should have specified. I go 170 on the Highway daily, and I am not talking for short distances......
Sorry about the misunderstanding. Although if you go to the Big Bend events you can easily reach your top speed!

Red Dragon

well even if they only stop alittle better than stock they do help with warping so that is a plus and i show the car sometimes so the rotors would look good too.

While we are on this what kind of brake fluid and brake pads should i use

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

More info on brakes ...

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=120564

I have always been impressed with the OEM pads when it comes to juggling performance vs dusting.

With increased performance, you'll get an increase in dust. It's just the nature of the beast.

Red Dragon

Hey Mitch thanks for the link. only problem is I started that thread on ls1.com. Im the Last Dragon on that board cause someone already had Red Dragon <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Anywho, i agree with you on using the stock pads I was just trying to see if anyone was using anything else, but i will probaly stay with GM pads

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

LOL!

You guys need to be consistent ... I can't keep up!

LOL!