Stock LCA's
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 3
From: Cleveland, OH
Stock LCA's It's been 6 years since I had the stock LCA's back in, and tonight I'm putting them back in with 1LE rubber.
Question.
Which way do they go in the car? Does one end matter over another? And which way should the bushings be facing? In other words the bushings are pressed in, but does the pressed in end face the outside or inside of the car?
Worst case is if someone with stock LCA's could take a look at their car.
Thanks!
John
Question.
Which way do they go in the car? Does one end matter over another? And which way should the bushings be facing? In other words the bushings are pressed in, but does the pressed in end face the outside or inside of the car?
Worst case is if someone with stock LCA's could take a look at their car.
Thanks!
John
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
From: Picatinny Arsenal, NJ
Here's an old post of mine that might help since it has pictures.
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I have the perfect reply for this. Here is an older post of mine that I just copied and pasted. (The original post can be found at https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/423983-my-comparison-between-my-gm-1le-lcas-factory-rear-lcas-pics-inside-questions.html.)
I just had my factory rear control arms replaced with GM's factory 1LE control arms. The 1LE LCAs were purchased new from Dal Slabaugh@ vandevere.com and were part number 10164151. They were priced at $67.32 each and freight was $10.28 for NJ. I had thought of maybe just buying the Moog 1LE-type bushings and using them to replace my factory LCA bushings, but that would probably add more labor time and, in the end, would still cost the same as buying brand-new factory 1LE LCAs. I had wanted to stay with rubber bushings to avoid any binding issues, coldflow, and occasional greasing that are associated with polyurethane bushings; and the possible increase in NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness), graphite greasing, and short lifespan associated with rod-ends. Installation was $65 (including the 1LE panhard rod installation) at TT Performance in Clifton, NJ.
On the 1LE rear control arms bushings, were the following:
HARRIS
B68
62538
FG
1LE LCAs
I inspected the factory rear control arms once they were removed and noticed that the factory bushings had "spacers" unlike the 1LE control arm bushings that were solid. On the factory rear control arm bushings, were the following:
10251393
BLACK
PINK
10251394
factory LCAs
Why would the bushing designs be different? Would one design have an advantage over the other? Thanks in advance for the info.
Just for the hell of it and since the part and installation were inexpensive, I had also purchased an SLP 1LE panhard rod from lmperformance.com. The SLP 1LE panhard rod (SLP part number 70401) was $26.96 and $20 shipping (direct from SLP). The installation was included in the $65 installation. The SLP 1LE panhard rod bushing design was identical to the factory panhard rod bushing design. On the 1LE panhard rod bushing, were the following:
09
CLEVITE SILENTBLOC
FG
62292
1LE panhard rod
There was also an orange marker-slash on the top of the 1LE panhard rod (not pictured).
On one bushing end of the factory panhard rod, were the following:
96
CLEVITE SILENTBLOC
FG
62296
On the other bushing end was the same as above except that 96 and 62296 was, instead, 98 and 62292.
factory panhard rod
Both panhard rods were so identical that I'm not even sure if I got the 1LE panhard rod. All I can do is go by the vendor(s)' product description.
After the installation of the 1LE suspension components, I noticed that there was no increase in NVH. I drive like an old lady so I couldn't tell if my handling improved. Hopefully, the rear 1LE LCAs will improve my 60 foot times this February when Atco Raceway reopens. If not, then I can always use Nitto 555Rs for the rear.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I have the perfect reply for this. Here is an older post of mine that I just copied and pasted. (The original post can be found at https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/423983-my-comparison-between-my-gm-1le-lcas-factory-rear-lcas-pics-inside-questions.html.)
I just had my factory rear control arms replaced with GM's factory 1LE control arms. The 1LE LCAs were purchased new from Dal Slabaugh@ vandevere.com and were part number 10164151. They were priced at $67.32 each and freight was $10.28 for NJ. I had thought of maybe just buying the Moog 1LE-type bushings and using them to replace my factory LCA bushings, but that would probably add more labor time and, in the end, would still cost the same as buying brand-new factory 1LE LCAs. I had wanted to stay with rubber bushings to avoid any binding issues, coldflow, and occasional greasing that are associated with polyurethane bushings; and the possible increase in NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness), graphite greasing, and short lifespan associated with rod-ends. Installation was $65 (including the 1LE panhard rod installation) at TT Performance in Clifton, NJ.
On the 1LE rear control arms bushings, were the following:
HARRIS
B68
62538
FG
1LE LCAs
I inspected the factory rear control arms once they were removed and noticed that the factory bushings had "spacers" unlike the 1LE control arm bushings that were solid. On the factory rear control arm bushings, were the following:
10251393
BLACK
PINK
10251394
factory LCAs
Why would the bushing designs be different? Would one design have an advantage over the other? Thanks in advance for the info.
Just for the hell of it and since the part and installation were inexpensive, I had also purchased an SLP 1LE panhard rod from lmperformance.com. The SLP 1LE panhard rod (SLP part number 70401) was $26.96 and $20 shipping (direct from SLP). The installation was included in the $65 installation. The SLP 1LE panhard rod bushing design was identical to the factory panhard rod bushing design. On the 1LE panhard rod bushing, were the following:
09
CLEVITE SILENTBLOC
FG
62292
1LE panhard rod
There was also an orange marker-slash on the top of the 1LE panhard rod (not pictured).
On one bushing end of the factory panhard rod, were the following:
96
CLEVITE SILENTBLOC
FG
62296
On the other bushing end was the same as above except that 96 and 62296 was, instead, 98 and 62292.
factory panhard rod
Both panhard rods were so identical that I'm not even sure if I got the 1LE panhard rod. All I can do is go by the vendor(s)' product description.
After the installation of the 1LE suspension components, I noticed that there was no increase in NVH. I drive like an old lady so I couldn't tell if my handling improved. Hopefully, the rear 1LE LCAs will improve my 60 foot times this February when Atco Raceway reopens. If not, then I can always use Nitto 555Rs for the rear.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 3
From: Cleveland, OH
You rock man, I really appreciate you taking the pics tonight.
And I'm not sure it's a pinion leak, my TA cover looks the same and has for 5 years, I just wipe it off if I'm under there and think about it. Never a drop in the driveway, check the fluid level every spring. I usually drain and refill every couple of years.
