Can someone give me a link or better yet, the directions to bleeding the brakes.

I am asking for a friend who drives a 96 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 if it makes any difference.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

The tried and true method requires 2 people, one sitting in the driver's seat and the other at the wheel.

Remove the tire/wheel

Locate the bleeder screw

Loosen it 1/4 turn and then retighten (snug, not real tight)

I put a length of clear fuel line on the bleeder screw so that I can see fluid color and any air bubbles. I can also direct the draining into a catch can.

Make sure the master cylinder is full of fluid and you have plenty on-hand to top it off occasionally.

Now you are ready for the bleed procedure ...

It's all in communication and consistency.

The person at the wheel calls the shots. When he's ready, he tells the person behind the wheel to "pump"

The person behind the wheel, pumps the brake pedal 2 or 3 times till it firms up and holds pressure on the brake pedal. He then says "holding"

The person at the wheel cracks open the bleeder screw and watches for color/opaquness and any air bubbles. The person behind the wheel should now feel the pedal begin to fall. Once it hits the floor, he says "floor" and holds it there.

The person at the wheel then seals the brake system back by closing the bleeder screw and says "pump".

The process begins once again.

Warning: if the person behind the wheel pumps the pedal with the bleeder screw open, you have pulled air INTO the brake caliper. This is a bad thing. It's important that the 2 people involved can consentrate and not get in a hurry.

Typically, you begin bleeding at the point furthest from the master cylinder and work you way to the shortest ... meaning right rear, left rear, right front left front.

On a pre 98 F-Body, there is a bleeder screw on the ABS unit as well. Using the same methodology, bleed this unit before going to a wheel. On 98 and newer, the ABS is bled by using a Tech 2.

HTH

 

If you don't have someone to help put the fuel line in a glass jar 1/4 full of brake fluid.Make sure the line DOESN'T come out of the fluid.Then you can go ahead and do a few pumps and check your level up top.Then repeat.This way will save you time, but keep that line in the fluid so you don't suck in air.

 

Whats the deal with the Tech 2? I'm going to switch over to Castrol SRF this winter. BTW, where do you get a good price on it?

 

Probably one of the best ways to bleed the brakes is with a http://www.prismenterprise.com/mityv...akebleedingkit .

Al

 

I had that but it leaked fluid, so I took it back.

Haven't had a chance to use my new one yet, from Griots.

 

I have one of those. It worked great the first few times I used it.

The problem is making sure it gets really cleaned up. 2 person requires a lot less clean up ....

 

Dont even bother with the ABS unit. Leave it alone, dont think, look, touch, peek at it at all. Just use the bleeders on the calipers <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

As for the One man procedures, I reccommed some Solobleeders from LG. They work nicely

http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...section=brakes

 

Like they said, but I do it this way:
Get a turkey baster and vacuum out the old fluid;
add fresh fluid;
gravity bleed the old fluid out until it runs clear -- this means you attach some vacuum hose over the bleeder bolts and run the other end into a jar -- the wheels are off and the car is on jacks -- the drip rate is about 1 drip every 2 seconds -- check so the master reservoir doesn't run out of fluid;
when the fluid runs clear into the jars get someone to push the brake pedal down slowly (a count of 10) and while they do that you walk quickly around to all 4 brake cylinders and tap them with a wrench to vibrate out any little bubbles of air;
they hold the brake pedal down while you close off all four bleeders -- do this at least twice.