erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

when i shift real hard, i guess speed shift...it clunks directlyunder the car, at least thats where i feel it....

what in the HELL is it....

by the way, i have quite a bit of suspension mods...i think i may need LCA relo brackets though because as my LCA's go towwareds the back of the car they actually go upwards(car is lowered)...thats not good huh...

THANKS

OldeSkool

its probably your torque arm... tell us what suspension mods you've done.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

or the torquearm mount showing it's worn out. . .

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

well car has 19000 miles on it....now it sees maybe 100 miles a month IF that....

i have bilstein shocks and springs with a 1.25" drop....SFC's, LCA's, STB, and an ADJ PHB...
um thats it....like i said it just feels like crap i dunno, car doesnt feel tight when i shift hard and this clunk is getting to me...ummm I am trying to be descriptive as possible..

could it be that i didnt center my rear end just right with the adj. PHB?

GIJosh

You could have an intensly worn trans mount.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

While the trans mount can be worn out, I'd like to pose another question since it was brought up and can be related to premature wear in the transmission itself.

If it's an M6, why are you shifting hard? It's not necessary at all on the T56, even with drag racing, AX, and/or RR and even if a racing multiple plate clutch system is installed. The only positive thing that can come out of shifting hard is that you can make some people believe you are some sort of tough guy, otherwise it's just banging your arm on the internal shift stops and possibly causing damage to the shift forks. It isn't even necessary with a shoft shifter (e.g. Aftermarket hurst, B&M Ripper, Pro 5.0, etc.). Heck, I can practically use only my fingertips or the palm of my hand to achieve a swift, certain, and positive shift everytime.

When you do isolate the problem of the clunking, try to not shift so hard. Not only will it result in better wear on the transmission, but also less driver fatgue and quicker shift intervals, believe it or not.

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

how els eare you supposed to shift when you are racing? Granny style? I generally shift VERY easily, like you said, unless im going hard....

Hmm, well, I have another question then...how can I losen up the feel of my shifter, because to be quite honest, it is NOTCHY as hell, I have the stock hurst with a ws6store short stick....i have a hard time shifting as it is when i race....any tips??

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

granny style is absolutely out of the question. like i mentioned before, be quick, not hard, even with drag racing. You will prematurely wear your transmission out. Practice to get the appropriate amount of force to shift quick. I have AXed and RRed, and occasionally drag raced very hard in both of my 4th Gens, and like the NASA website mentions with shifting, it's absolutely not recommended to shift hard any time.

Well....

That's the problem right there. Adding a short stick like the one you mentioned doesn't make you shift quicker, and quite possibly as well, can make you miss gears as well. You think you are, but times and video tell the truth. Yes, you are shortening the shift engagement lengths, however there is a tradeoff with a longer reach downwards, more distance between the wheel and the shifter, and more possible misshifts as well since there is less than adequate detectable distance between the shift gates. Basically by adding a short stick, you're making more of an effort to reach for the shift and concentrate on getting it in there, and keeping your right hand off the wheel longer, not good. Now don't misconstrue this as advising to get some sort of "too-tall beer tap" level type of shifter installed.

FWIW, the problem with the stock shifter (stock hurst as well) is mostly it's quality of feel, plus it's shift throw length, and not the height of the stick. By me saying this, an alternative is to go straight for an Aftermarket hurst or a B&M Ripper.

AFA the notchiness involved, there's not a lot to be done to remove it, and also when you replace with an aftermarket shifter like the ones recommended above, it becomes more apparent, but if it came down to notchiness, it's actually a much more positive trait for performance driving, than some thing that just slides in and out. The stock non hurst shifter is indeed a broomstick in a bucket of oatmeal.

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

hey man thanks a lot..ya know ima thow the stock stick back on and see how i row...
ill keep ya posted

THANKS

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

And I thank you erik for being patient and objective.

Another thing I would like to mention is that if the stock hurst shifter stick may not feel to your liking, you can always switch back to the short stick, or consider the other shifters I mention. That's why I always try to do one mod at a time, practise with it on a road course, and sometimes switch back with an attempt to record differences. Many people around here find that to be too time consuming, but I think it's really helpful when it comes to finding what works or not.

Also, never rule out the possibilities mentioned above with the Torque arm mount or even transmission mount. If you bought the car used, they too could need replacing.

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

ok, any suggestions on how to inspect those items, and if need be, what to replace them with?
i am definately going to put the stock stick back on and see what happens...
I do like the hurst, i cant complain, I think the stick is actually causing more notchyness....i drive a ford ranger everyday with like a 2 foot shifter and lemme tell ya, i row gears in that thing like Jack Roush.....ha, it is SO easy....I guess its a leverage thing!
i will keep you posted...

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

and the 2nd cheapest possibility (other than swapping the shifter out). . .the bolt/nut which hold the torque arm to the tranny, could have fallen out. I've had that happen also.

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

i will DEF take a look this afternoon, see whats up....
maybe something worked its way lose, would that cheap stamped tunnel brace have anything to do with it?? I removed it to get TD's....

any thoughts?
erik

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

doubt it would have anything to do with the stamped tunnel brace or directly related to any other stamped parts in your case, but rather some parts that deal with attachment, such as bolts, mounts, bushings. Don't hesistate to inspect your transmount also.

DragonsPhyre

My Formula did exactly that same thing until I replaced the trans mount. It wasn't expensive, and I went with a poly mount which is a slight upgrade anyway. It can't hurt.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Be sure to check and make sure its not your exhaust.

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

BINGO!!.....I drove it tonight....and REALLY concentrated on the sound..where exactly it came form and what sound it made...i feel that it is either the collector on the header hitting the bottom of the car as the engine torques or the first few inches of the pipes hitting the under carriage....my exhaust guy did a HELLUVA job tucking everything in...so i am not unhappy!

I wanted to thank EVERYONE for trying to figure this one out.....I do appreciate it...keep it up...

does everyone think when i change heads and cam and all I should throw in some poly motor mounts???

Thanks

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

my vote for poly motor mounts: yes.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Yes on the poly; my exhaust doesn't torque over like it used to, a big bonus when lowered with a larger than stock exhaust.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well from the first post your did anwser one of your problems. Lowered cars need LCA relocation brackets. And I doubt the short stick is causing the problem. Once I put in my WS6store short stick I quit missing gears. It seems impossible if you shift correctly to start with. Plus once its in gear there is no wiggle from the stick, like the stock P.O.S. stick with rubber grommet thing on it.