lastSS

Hey, my car seems to be shuddering durin braking. It can get kind of bad. I am thinkning that it is the rotors, they are still stock. But the car only has about 17,000 on it. Do the stock ones suck that bad. I have not braked hard very often. Only one or two times. It happened so infrequently that I cannot even recall one time for sure. If I take it to the dealer are they going to give me hell? Any help is appreciated.

WeatherGuy

You have warped rotors. And yeah - the stock rotors do suck that badly. Mine warped at only 11,000 miles.

Z-Rated

you can take it in to the dealer if you want too. they are just going to give u new pads and turn the rotors. its going to go bad again in about 4000 miles. i took mine in at 14 now at 19 they are bad again. i am just going to get some autozone rotors b/c there cheap and they work well enough.

Drew

lastSS

It is amazing to me that GM would make a car this fast and then put sucky rotors on it. I guess they had some left over from the Metro's . Oh well, I am not really happy with GM right now. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> I am having trouble with my 2000 SIlverado. I think I am going to trade it in for a new HEMI Dodge. Even though, the Camaro will always stay. No matter how mad I get at GM, the love for the Camaro will always be there. Guess I am going to go back to the dealer. I will also look into aftermarket rotors. Are the Autozone ones better than stock?

Danny2tek

iTrader: (1)

I bought the Autozone Extreme rotor's for $93 a piece they're cross drilled and slotted <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

BlackBird55

iTrader: (1)

The warped rotors USUALLY happen when you have hot brakes and then hit a puddle. If you think the late 4th gens are bad you should experience the early 4th gens with the small rotors, they really suck.
As for crossdrilled/slotted, that causes stress in the rotor which can lead to cracking/splitting. The only reason to have them on a street car is for looks, if you want the best braking performance go for more surface area. If you do want the drilled/slotted get ones that have the features cast in, not drilled. This gets around the stresses that drilling causes.

simpsonsruleWS6

Blackbird - Which brand would have cast features? Also, I see that you are from Motown - Hi neighbor! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Danny2tek

iTrader: (1)

The Autozone one's are cast not drilled

BlackBird55

iTrader: (1)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by simpsonsruleWS6:
<strong> Also, I see that you are from Motown - Hi neighbor! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yep, i'm actually from S.H. as well, moving to Royal Oak real soon. The light at M-59 and Van Dyke always warps the rotors on my '94 in the spring or fall. All that rain makes for some nice puddles just as your stopping from freeway speed! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

arcom

Actually, 17k isn't too bad. Mine went at 12K.
Might as well delay the inevitable and have the dealer do some warranty work. Afterwards, hand torque the lug nuts to 95 ft/lbs--important to do. The dealer will not replace the rotors, just cut them.

You might get another 10K-15K out of them afterwhich you're gonna have to replace them.

I've got about 15K on the JC Whitney cross drilled and slotted rotors. ($65 ea.) So far so good.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

ok....I had to ask....what are people doing that is making their rotors go bad like this? I read one time that "warped" rotors is really not the correct term. I'm not sure that it is entirely correct <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> but it is a possible reason of why the rotor faces are uneven:

- under hard braking the pad (and rotor heat up)
- the driver sits still (say at a light) with the brakes pressed on, the pad is forced up against the rotor
- with the hot pad pressed against the rotor, the pad's surface in essence "bonds" to the surface of the rotor
- when the brakes are releaced and the "bond" is broken, a layer of pad material is left on the rotor (several thousants) resulting in a high spot
- now when the bakes are reaplied, as this high spot hits the surface of the pad and makes it "bounce off" (has to move out some for the added thickness) resulting in a shudder

This is why "turning" the rotor gets rid of the shudder....you remove the layer of pad material from the rotor.....


What I do know is:

I have 31000 miles on my 01 and I still have both the rotors AND the pads that came from the FACTORY <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> (and by no means do I "baby" my car....). I'm just always careful to give my brakes a chance to cool after a hard application. I don't sit at the light with my foot on the brakes (take it out of gear). M6 guys........downshift to slow down.....it not only saves your brakes but its also a LOT of FUN!!!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Chris


addition....yay...I found the artical...here is the link:

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

its a little long but its good reading.... <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

<small>[ February 13, 2003, 10:41 PM: Message edited by: 2001CamaroGuy ]</small>

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

CamaroGuy has pretty much got it on the mark. Not only from reading the article he posted, but also reading other information from several bonafide scientific publications (primarily mechanical engineering and physics journals), rotors don't quite "warp" in a true physical aspect, the way most people diagnose by the SOTP feel.

I am noticing that many of the claims that are made by many aftermarket manufacturers that certain disc features (cross-drilling, slotting) "will prevent warping and increase stopping distances" are gradually disappearing from their advertisements.

NightHawk

iTrader: (1)

I was looking for some cross drilled rotors, too. I almost never road race my car, but I do drag race frequently. And I plan on it being a drag/show kind of daily driven car. Do you think cross drilled rotors would be ok for my application? I love the look of them.

pjb

iTrader: (2)

I also replaced my rotors. I had the chevy dealer give me new ones under warranty and installed them myself. Many miles later, and no longer under warranty, the braking vibration returned. I installed new pads , Performance Friction Carbon Metallics, and the braking vibration went away. I didn't touch the rotors at all. Thinking of using some pads that dust less next time. It's tough to keep the TT2's looking like new.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NightHawk:
<strong> I was looking for some cross drilled rotors, too. I almost never road race my car, but I do drag race frequently. And I plan on it being a drag/show kind of daily driven car. Do you think cross drilled rotors would be ok for my application? I love the look of them. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would think so.....

Drag car brakes have a pretty easy life. They only really get used at the end of the track and then have a long time to cool down slowly before their next hard use (which should help prevent cracking). Also, how fast are you running in the 1/4? If your trap speed is not that high then your not even producing "that much" heat (so it would never get to the point of cracking).

NightHawk

iTrader: (1)

For now I'm only running 13.4 @ 104.8 MPH, and I hope to be in the 12.50 - 12.70 range fairly soon. I do some city driving, too, but not much where I'm always on the brakes (ie. bumper to bumper traffic). WAY down the line I plan on re-sleeving the block and builing a 427 stroker with twin turbos which I hope to get into the 9's or better, but I plan on doing radical changes to the brakes (and everything esle on the car, I'm sure) when that time comes. Thanks for your help.
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />