Alignment predicament
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Alignment predicament Well my Z/28 ended up in a ditch a year ago. I bent the lca (could def tell it was bent). I replaced that and went to take it for an alignment. The first place told me they had trouble and to take it to sears. They said i might need to change the steering knuckle.
Sears said they ran out of adjustment on something (i think they said toe but couldve been something else) so they turned the steeringwheel and lined it up to that. They inspected my suspension and frame and said there wasn't anything obvious. The steering wheel when turned like 45degrees right goes straight.
Well i eventually got ahold of a straight steering knuckle. I am going away to school and leaving the car to my sister. I thought it would be kind to fix this problem for her because it annoys her, never bugged me. Ive driven the car for over a year that way and never had a problem, steering works, no excessive tire wear.
Should I replace the steering knuckle and take it for an alignment? I worry that by changing the steering knuckle and taking it back, they might not be able to get it right again or even aligned at all. I really would like to fix the problem. There are no tell tale signs of frame or any other suspension damage.
Sears said they ran out of adjustment on something (i think they said toe but couldve been something else) so they turned the steeringwheel and lined it up to that. They inspected my suspension and frame and said there wasn't anything obvious. The steering wheel when turned like 45degrees right goes straight.
Well i eventually got ahold of a straight steering knuckle. I am going away to school and leaving the car to my sister. I thought it would be kind to fix this problem for her because it annoys her, never bugged me. Ive driven the car for over a year that way and never had a problem, steering works, no excessive tire wear.
Should I replace the steering knuckle and take it for an alignment? I worry that by changing the steering knuckle and taking it back, they might not be able to get it right again or even aligned at all. I really would like to fix the problem. There are no tell tale signs of frame or any other suspension damage.
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From: Michigan (Macomb or Lansing)
Yea, ive been teaching her how to take care of it and stuff so it should be alright im hoping. She's not allowed to girl it out either and has to keep it clean.
Is there anything else that might cause an alignment problem?
Is there anything else that might cause an alignment problem?
Dosent take a lot to bend the spindles on these cars so thats most likley your problem. Most the time they will look just fine, but will still be out of arc. If you want the GM part number for it let me know and ill get that back to you.
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From: Michigan (Macomb or Lansing)
Ok i changed the steering knuckle and the tires are like pigeontoed now when the wheel is straight so the knuckle i had on the car was def bent (i didnt change the tie rod positions btw.) Guess i just gotta take her to the alignment shop and everything should be good 
The small arm that connects to the tie rod is tweaked inwards a few degrees and i think that was the problem. Thx for info.
The small arm that connects to the tie rod is tweaked inwards a few degrees and i think that was the problem. Thx for info. Thread Starter
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From: Michigan (Macomb or Lansing)
Ok I took it to belle tire and the guy said something was a bit screwy, i told him to do it anyways. All of the measurements are in spec except:
I got a printout and everything is in spec except:
LeftFront Camber: -0.9deg Spec: -.1deg to 0.9deg
LeftFront Caster: 4.1deg Spec: 4.3deg to 5.3deg
RightFront Caster 3.5deg Spec: -.1deg to 0.9deg
Cross Camber: -1.2deg Spec: -0.7deg to 0.7deg
I think he mightve just set the toe and ignored the rest because it was the right side that was damaged. So far, I changed the lca and steering knuckle (which were both definentally tweaked.) He didn't charge me because i have a bad bearing (will replace this because i messed it up getting it out of the old steering knuckle) with some play in it. He said to change the bearing and go back. What do you think my course of action should be? Are the numbers ok to leave as they are or do i absolutely need to take it in?
I got a printout and everything is in spec except:
LeftFront Camber: -0.9deg Spec: -.1deg to 0.9deg
LeftFront Caster: 4.1deg Spec: 4.3deg to 5.3deg
RightFront Caster 3.5deg Spec: -.1deg to 0.9deg
Cross Camber: -1.2deg Spec: -0.7deg to 0.7deg
I think he mightve just set the toe and ignored the rest because it was the right side that was damaged. So far, I changed the lca and steering knuckle (which were both definentally tweaked.) He didn't charge me because i have a bad bearing (will replace this because i messed it up getting it out of the old steering knuckle) with some play in it. He said to change the bearing and go back. What do you think my course of action should be? Are the numbers ok to leave as they are or do i absolutely need to take it in?
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being an alignment guy and looking at your spec here's what i can tell you...the caster is not a big deal..caster will not wear tires no matter how bad it is ,on camaro's ,vette's, firebird's ,etc .. the more caster the better, i have my 02 at 6 degrees on both sides more caster will give you a firmer steering wheel[more steering effort ]more of that riding on a rail type feel...the camber being out will over time give you tire wear ..not today or a few months from now ,but over the coarse of the tire's life...camber being a big difference left and right[thats your cross camber]could some -times cause a pull or drift to the more postive side...wheel alignment machines today make adjustment in fraction's of an inch so any movement or anything loose in the front end will affect your alignment specs and mainly how the toe is set in your car..the shop i would assume did not have the correct tool for the job .they make an alignment tool just for f-bodies that most guys do not buy ! if i didn't own a couple of camaro's myself i would have never got the tool either..so i think they just set the toe and let it go...i would fix the bearing ,find a shop in the area that has the correct tool or you can buy it your self for about 60 bucks and bring it along with you ,,get a printout of your before and after specs and you should be good...clint
i got mine though my hunter alignment service guy he sold it to me for what it cost him to get the tool ..i'll check at work tommorrow the brand i have and maybe you can find something on-line....
The tool makes it quicker, no doubt. But a good alignment can still be had using pry bars and fulcrums ... along with a shitload of patience.
The alignment guy might have to make a dozen attempts to get it, but it can be done.
chevysol is spot on about caster. The more you get, the more effort it takes to turn and the more the car wants to center the steering wheel. Road racers like lots of caster.
Camber will help make the car turn. With negative camber, the top of the wheel is canted in. As you turn and load up that corner, the suspension compresses, body angles change and the tire's contact patch flattens out.
If the tire was perfectly straight up and down, you turn, suspension compresses under load, the tire will literally roll underneath the car, losing grip. So, some camber is necessary.
Too much camber and you lose straight line braking power becasue the car is on the edge of the tire.
The closer to zero toe you get, the quicker the steering response.
Combine all those things, lots of positive caster, negative camber and zero or toe out, the car gets mighty twitchy on a street driven car.
I've had a car move 1/2 a lane in rutted pavement.
The alignment guy might have to make a dozen attempts to get it, but it can be done.
chevysol is spot on about caster. The more you get, the more effort it takes to turn and the more the car wants to center the steering wheel. Road racers like lots of caster.
Camber will help make the car turn. With negative camber, the top of the wheel is canted in. As you turn and load up that corner, the suspension compresses, body angles change and the tire's contact patch flattens out.
If the tire was perfectly straight up and down, you turn, suspension compresses under load, the tire will literally roll underneath the car, losing grip. So, some camber is necessary.
Too much camber and you lose straight line braking power becasue the car is on the edge of the tire.
The closer to zero toe you get, the quicker the steering response.
Combine all those things, lots of positive caster, negative camber and zero or toe out, the car gets mighty twitchy on a street driven car.
I've had a car move 1/2 a lane in rutted pavement.
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From: Michigan (Macomb or Lansing)
Thanks for the info. My buddy at school did mention something about a tool a long time ago but I never was able to find any info on it.
Do I have to worry about the way it is right now. I don't think it pull at all even with the cross camber out of spec. At the moment, the car feels better than its ever felt. With the camber being out of spec on the way it is, do i have to worry about my tires or can i drive it like it is for the time being?
I know i need a new bearing, i am gonna change that for sure. I will think taking the car back after that but most likely i wont or will find a different place to do it.
Do I have to worry about the way it is right now. I don't think it pull at all even with the cross camber out of spec. At the moment, the car feels better than its ever felt. With the camber being out of spec on the way it is, do i have to worry about my tires or can i drive it like it is for the time being?
I know i need a new bearing, i am gonna change that for sure. I will think taking the car back after that but most likely i wont or will find a different place to do it.
northstar part number 88-8925 for camaro caster /camber tool..northstar's phone number 1-952-931-9122..hope this help's anyone looking for the tool...as far as your car ^^^^^^^ like i said over time you will get tire wear but it will be ok for now...
