Roll Cages. Bolt-on or weld-in??
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From: Louisville, Ky
Roll Cages. Bolt-on or weld-in?? Is a 4pt. cage going to be 2/3's as efficient as a 6pt. cage? How much better is a weld-in vs. a bolt-on? Bolt-ins are twice as much as the weld-in but they aren't permanent, and I'm afraid not as efficient. Though, I guess you could always take out a weld-in also right?
Should I do a 4pt. cage and BMR Tubular SFC's like i'm thinking or just do the 6pt.? Does the 6pt. get in the way? Thanks.
Also, some guy on here with bolt-on SLP SFC's got a bolt-on 6pt. cage and said it was squeaking really bad. That happen often? He said welding it in made the squeaks dcrease 95%..??
Should I do a 4pt. cage and BMR Tubular SFC's like i'm thinking or just do the 6pt.? Does the 6pt. get in the way? Thanks.
Also, some guy on here with bolt-on SLP SFC's got a bolt-on 6pt. cage and said it was squeaking really bad. That happen often? He said welding it in made the squeaks dcrease 95%..??
Re: Roll Cages. Bolt-on or weld-in?? A 6 point will help tie the front and rear of the car together. A 4 point will strengthen the rear of the car, but F-bodies tend to flex in the middle. I'd recommend a 6 point and I'd weld it (I welded an 8 point S&W race cars cage in my 1989 Formula when I owned it....). A bolt in is still an improvement. If you don't want to deal with the front points, get a 6 point and just install 4 of them for now (if it is a bolt in and not a one piece cage). Just my thought.....good luck.
