Roll Cages. Bolt-on or weld-in??
03-04-2003 | 02:02 AM
#1
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From: Louisville, Ky
Roll Cages. Bolt-on or weld-in?? Is a 4pt. cage going to be 2/3's as efficient as a 6pt. cage? How much better is a weld-in vs. a bolt-on? Bolt-ins are twice as much as the weld-in but they aren't permanent, and I'm afraid not as efficient. Though, I guess you could always take out a weld-in also right?
Should I do a 4pt. cage and BMR Tubular SFC's like i'm thinking or just do the 6pt.? Does the 6pt. get in the way? Thanks.
Also, some guy on here with bolt-on SLP SFC's got a bolt-on 6pt. cage and said it was squeaking really bad. That happen often? He said welding it in made the squeaks decrease 95%..??
Should I do a 4pt. cage and BMR Tubular SFC's like i'm thinking or just do the 6pt.? Does the 6pt. get in the way? Thanks.
Also, some guy on here with bolt-on SLP SFC's got a bolt-on 6pt. cage and said it was squeaking really bad. That happen often? He said welding it in made the squeaks decrease 95%..??
03-04-2003 | 03:50 AM
#2
Re: Roll Cages. Bolt-on or weld-in?? I have a 6 point cage that was professionally installed and made from scratch. It was a weld in (NHRA Legal) and really tightened the car up. I didnt have squeeks before, but the rigidity of the car is noticable, and will NEVER have a squeek! I hope.
I would opt for the weld in, 6pt so your 11.99 legal. Of course there are some downsides to having an NHRA legal rollbar. The door bars are a pain in the *** to climb over, the backseat is a memory for any practical use (like it ever was) and it was expensive to have done. Mine was about $750 from Extreme Engineering Inc. in Omaha, Nebraska. But its a pro job, and not some mass produced, one size fits all rollbar. It was custom setup to go along with my long legs, and I trust my life to it.
<small>[ March 04, 2003, 03:51 AM: Message edited by: Fast SS on NOS ]</small>
I would opt for the weld in, 6pt so your 11.99 legal. Of course there are some downsides to having an NHRA legal rollbar. The door bars are a pain in the *** to climb over, the backseat is a memory for any practical use (like it ever was) and it was expensive to have done. Mine was about $750 from Extreme Engineering Inc. in Omaha, Nebraska. But its a pro job, and not some mass produced, one size fits all rollbar. It was custom setup to go along with my long legs, and I trust my life to it.
<small>[ March 04, 2003, 03:51 AM: Message edited by: Fast SS on NOS ]</small>
03-04-2003 | 11:17 AM
#3
Re: Roll Cages. Bolt-on or weld-in?? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SStolen:
<strong> some guy on here .......</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">some guy..... <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />
I'm still "somewhat" glad I went with the "bolt in" because it is powder coated so will look good for years to come.
Looking back though, I wish I would have not gotten the swing outs. They rattled so much, that I had shim them up and now they are impossible to open and close (people will just have to deal with climing over) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> . DON"T GET SWING OUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I should have just gotten a chrome molley roll bar and TIGed it in (I have both a TIG and a MIG so....).
This afternoon I'm actually going home and welding the SLP subframes on to finish up this "rampage" I'm on <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> .
Chris
update: Well...its done....I welded the subframes in and OMG!!!! Welding the roll bar rid me of 95% of the noise...welding the subframes got rid of 95% of what was left. Even the swing outs are not a problem anymore. I have changed my entire outlook....THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR WELDING!!! I'm still in favor of bolting FIRST to alighn things but after its "in"....WELD IT!
<small>[ March 04, 2003, 05:41 PM: Message edited by: 2001CamaroGuy ]</small>
<strong> some guy on here .......</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">some guy..... <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />
I'm still "somewhat" glad I went with the "bolt in" because it is powder coated so will look good for years to come.
Looking back though, I wish I would have not gotten the swing outs. They rattled so much, that I had shim them up and now they are impossible to open and close (people will just have to deal with climing over) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> . DON"T GET SWING OUTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I should have just gotten a chrome molley roll bar and TIGed it in (I have both a TIG and a MIG so....).
This afternoon I'm actually going home and welding the SLP subframes on to finish up this "rampage" I'm on <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> .
Chris
update: Well...its done....I welded the subframes in and OMG!!!! Welding the roll bar rid me of 95% of the noise...welding the subframes got rid of 95% of what was left. Even the swing outs are not a problem anymore. I have changed my entire outlook....THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR WELDING!!! I'm still in favor of bolting FIRST to alighn things but after its "in"....WELD IT!
<small>[ March 04, 2003, 05:41 PM: Message edited by: 2001CamaroGuy ]</small>
