staringback05

iTrader: (8)

well i havent posted that much in this area, because im not really versused in the suspension area...soo now i want to get some info.....on a completely stock ls1 what would lca's, tq arm, pan hard bar, and subframes...what would that put back into the car power wise....i know A4s lose alot of power through the drive train and suspension.....i started with the simplest suspension mod first...a stb, and i have a pan hard bar thats goin on soon.....but for the other things i want to know what ill get back out of them, or should i keep going with engine mods (pulley, cai, and headers).....

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Do a search brother, this one has been beaten to death. Look at the sticky on top.

I'll help you though:
1. Do shocks first, period. Bilsteins or Konis. For a street car, don't get anything else. Money permitting, do the Konis.
2. Tires - good tires are KEY for straight line or turning.
3. Sway bars - bigger sway bars will help the turns tremendously. If you have a WS6, you may not need this, depending on what your car actually has.
4. All the other stuff (which I have done) was nice and each helped a little, but I should have done shocks first, period.

If you have good sways, do this.
Shocks
Tires
Subframe connectors
and see how it feels. You'll have a different car.

SHOCKS FIRST!

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

hmm sounds good, i thought about the shocks but those are pretty costly..

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Yet shocks are a significant part of the improvement (the ones that are correctly valved for the springs that the car is equipped with). AFA SFC's, they aren't what they are cracked up to be. The 4th Gen platform suffers mostly from ill equipped dampening and a lot less from the "fifth spring effect" of the floorpan. It's best to look at the thread that lsx24 started at the top of the section, which is now a sticky.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

i checked it out....it still didnt mention a few of the parts i listed, im looking into shocks right now though...like i said i just want to get back some of the stuff ive lost

HPP

Your rims weren't cheap, were they? And on that same note, are head and cam swaps ever cheap?

People never say "I thought about buying new heads, but those are pretty costly".

Just sayin'.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

o and something else...i didnt really want to lower my car...i already hate how i have to go at angles at some places pulling in and out...so do i have to use the lowering springs with the bilstien shocks?

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

ha...i got a deal on the rims, the same guy who helped me build my new motor, runs a tire place, soooo i got them for about 600 dollars less then retail lol, but it still put me in the whole a bit....

HPP

The revalved Bilsteins are going for about $530 at Stranoparts.com.

So the point is still valid.


No, you don't have to use lowering springs. Call them, tell them what you have, what you are looking for and what you want out of the car. They will hook you up.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

That's exactly the point. They are the parts that perform as opposed to parts that are just thrown at the vehicle because it's a great idea to "follow the lemmings" and have all of the great placebo effects to achieve results, instead of actually resolving what's "lost" or "to be gained." Other than a handle over the engine bay, STB is dead weight on the nose. Other than extra long jacking points, SFC's are dead weight beneath the vehicle. 3-pt. SFC's are mainly useful for floorpan mounted TA's.

Really, there isn't much needed to improve the performance without punishing your derrier or your finances.

AFA the shocks, you can opt for Bilstein HD's (however Sam Strano knows of Bilstein's recent "downgrade").

This is the thread I'm referring to:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/513475-canyon-carving-street-suspension-setup-review-long.html

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

530s not that bad i guess....rims and tires were over a grand

HPP

Exactly.

Everyone knows what rims and tires do. Or what an exhaust will do. Or what heads and cams do. But they don't seem to know what shocks will do. It seems to be a prevailing case of "but they are just shocks", as though they were "just" interior light bulbs or something, and they aren't.

You wouldn't buy killer rims and put crappy tires on, would you? You wouldn't opt for econobrand tires if you wanted performance, right?

Same thing with the shocks. As vital as good tires. Maybe more, given how bad the stock ones are.

View it like a head/cam swap for your suspension.


Koni's are better. You can get into them for around $800. But the revalved Bilsteins will get you by and be an improvement over stock, no matter what.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

yea i see your point....i never underestimated suspension....its just hard to split the money among things without seeing what your getting....revalved? is that like rebuilt or something?

toirn

Not exactly "rebuilt", since they do it to new shocks.

The valving determines how hard/soft the shock will compress and extend.

From what I've read on the subject, the Bilsteins aren't set up very well for an fbody, particularly the lowered ones, but can be "easily" made into one of the best (Koni is the only one that gets higher reviews).

I'd suggest finding an expert on the subject of revalving and discussing the matter. One such person was named above.

Meanwhile, I'm here doing what your doing. Just a couple steps ahead in the research department ...

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

i mean its just hard to decide what i want to do with the 800 bucks...i mean like that guys sayn konis are around that...while i could go with a set of headers and a dyno tune.....

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

I understand the frustration, however I advise you to exercise patience and prudence when it comes to modifications.

1. You mentioned that you don't want to lower the vehicle. okay, so now you have two choices of quality shocks that perform for the money spent, Bilstein HD's or Koni SA's.

2. You're trying to "get back what was lost." It's been how long? yep, at least every 4th Gen that left the factory and into at least one customer's possesion is at least 4 years old. The problem what you're experiencing? Worn shocks. When shocks are worn, they not only make general handling worse, but also increase braking distances, and contribute to premature tyre wear (of course there are other factors that contribute to these effects as well, but shocks are a significant factor when it comes to simlutaneously affecting these matters).

3. Other than what's mentioned above, what are you really looking for the car to do? If it's a high performance daily driver you're looking for and you're not lowering, why are you trying to change the parts you've asked about in your first post? Other than your PHB, your suspension geometry will be fine. The parts aren't going to change much, if anything. AFA LCA's, your stock ones are okay as they are, however your bushings may be shot. Replace with either TRW or Moog "solid" rubber bushings.

Again, look at replacing the shocks. They are a very important item.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

This point really needs to be emphasized. You don't mod just to mod, or out of vague goal of getting power. What do you want the car to do? Corner flatter? At higher g's? Ride smoother? Launch better at the track? What are your goals? Once you identify your goals, then do the research to help find the right pieces to acheive them.