KissMyWhiteSS

iTrader: (3)

Alright...well thanks again for all the info. It definitely seems to be the rotors. I went on WS6store and they have the factory replacement ones that you can get drilled or slotted or both for $169. Are those really as good as people say. I know how drilled and slotted rotors tend to crack and tear up pads faster. But how about just drilled or just slotted. Are those any better. I would think that drilled would be safer for the pads...but I dunno. I've never experianced this.

johnpate01

iTrader: (3)

Either way you are going to chew up pads pretty fast drilled OR slotted. Stick with plain rotors.

KissMyWhiteSS

iTrader: (3)

Ok thats what I was wondering...

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Before throwing money at a solution you're unsure of, check the car out first.

Warped rotors can give you a pulsation/steering wheel shake. You can usually feel this if your coming to a slow stop and riding the brakes.

A violent shake, usually has to do with something else. Balljoints, bad tires, etc. If you can, get the front of the car up on jackstands. Check for balljoint play, bad tires (cupping/chopped) and just for the hell of it spin your wheels and make sure none of them are bent.

Does your steering wheel shake at 50+MPH noticably? If it's ONLY when you hit the brakes, you could have warped rotors, and uneven pad wear causing the vibration. If it's REALLY bad, you may even have a frozen caliper.

Get back to us after you diagnose things a little further.

richieg

iTrader: (1)

what other suspension stuff do you have on your car? I was driving from dallas to vegas then back to dallas again. on the way an hour from vegas my car started to shake something fierce whenever I applied the brakes. It came on very suddenly, and I have baer 6piston calipers with 14inch rotors, so I couldn't believe it was my brakes, eventhough the shake only came while braking. After I got home, I put the car up on stands and had a look around. on my driver side, the factory sway bar mount broke off somehow. I replaced that with another factory piece, then a few months later the actual "u"strap that goes around the swaybar bushing snapped. (running a hotchkiss sway bar) SO I called hothkiss and they had others report the mount breaking and they had made a reinforced piece to counter the problem. They sent out one for free, and it's been golden since then. anyways, that's my story,something else for you to look at before you spend money on brake upgrades. (although it's not bad money spent if you do)

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

You could probably tell if it was something like this, if it continues to do it as you come to a stop. Especially below 10mph, it will slow down as your wheels turn slower and slower, but still "grab, turn, grab, turn, grab, turn". If it does I don't know of anything else it could be other than brakes.

KissMyWhiteSS

iTrader: (3)

Well after reading what everybody says I'm thinking it's the brakes. This is how it goes...

I only feel the pulsating at the wheel...and it usually happens when I have to brake hard at higher speeds. Say around 50 or higher... They don't shake the whole time, but usually stop when I get to lower speeds, say like city speeds. It's not constant, only at higher speeds and hard stopping. If it were my suspension, wouldn't it shake more often, like almost all the time?

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

It is probably the beginning of whats to come then...mine are past that point...they do it during *all* braking, as I described.

Matts94Z28

iTrader: (6)

your car sucks...sell it. jk drew, mine does the same thing because of warped rotors, but im too cheap to fix it right away. buuuuuuut my car will shake all the way to a stop and not just at higher speeds. My rodeo used to do it at highspeeds when the ball joints were bad, im sure you remember that. does it float around on you at all while driving? does it pull hard to one side while braking?

Dal1as

Also, one issue that has not been brought up. Use a torque wrench to torque your wheel studs down. I believe it's a 100 foot pounds. Uneven torqueing is one of the main causes of our rotors warping. I do this and haven't had a problem since and I drive the hell out of my car.

Car_Guy

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to hijack the thread but I have a very similar problem. I just bought my car, I felt the vibration on the test drive and told them that they needed to fix the problem. While I was there they turned the front rotors, with the machine that does it on the car to accont for hub runout. Welll it felt better for a while but now it's just as bad as it was when I test drove it, I'm not sure if it really ever fixed the problem. It's been 2 months so I don't think they would do anything for me if I took it back. Could it be the fact that they turned the rotors and then put the same pads back on? Or could the rotors have warped again? I have done no racing or hard driving at all!