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Violent Shaking While I'm Braking...What Is It?

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Old 08-26-2006, 01:41 PM
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Default Violent Shaking While I'm Braking...What Is It?

I read a thread about this before on here and cannot seem to find it anywhere. Here's my problem...For one my car pulls to the left, so I'm assuming the alignment is off. But at higher speeds when I press the brakes I get a very violent vibration coming from the front end f the car. It shakes hard until you slow down to a certain point. I read on here that somebody else was having this same problem with their car and they upgraded their brakes (rotors, pads, maybe even calipers) and they still had the bad vibrtation. Somebody else said that it was the alignment on the car.

My car is an '01 SS and only has 31k miles on it. I'm kinda lost and I dunno if I should change out the brakes and hope that that fixes it...or if I should aim for getting the alignment done and that fixing it. Can anybody help?
Old 08-26-2006, 01:55 PM
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warped rotor mine did the same thing
Old 08-26-2006, 04:02 PM
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Is that all? That's odd, well kinda...it just seems like it would be so much more. I thought it could be something with the brakes but I didn't want to just jump into upgrading the brakes if that wasn't the problem. Thanks man...anybody else have a clue?

Last edited by Drews91Maro; 08-26-2006 at 04:07 PM.
Old 08-26-2006, 04:28 PM
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From what you describe it sounds like brake disc warpage.
Old 08-26-2006, 04:32 PM
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Alright...well that would have been my first thought until I read where some guy experianced the same thing and he replaced his brakes and it didn't go away...I just wanted to make sure I'm covering all the basics...thanks guys.
Old 08-26-2006, 05:27 PM
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Yup what these guys said. I feel your pain

I need a MAJOR brake overhaul, and soon.
Old 08-26-2006, 10:09 PM
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You'll usually feel a pulsing in the pedal from a warped rotor. Warped rotors are common on the 4th gen cars and the LS1 factory (actually 98 and up brakes, V6 and V8) rotors are known to warp. If it's not the rotors, it could be a bad tire or bent wheel.
Old 08-26-2006, 10:20 PM
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Variation in transfer layer thickness on the rotor. Many people call this a "warped" rotor.

Change your rotors, you'll be amazed!

Ben T.
Old 08-26-2006, 11:26 PM
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Well it sounds like a warped rotor then...I'll change them tomorrow. Thanks guys!
Old 08-29-2006, 02:19 PM
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You may as well upgrade when you do it. go to some aftermarket so it doesnt happen again . maybe some drilled and slotted rotors
Old 08-29-2006, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Blk00TransAm
maybe some drilled and slotted rotors
That is not an upgrade.
Stick with blank rotors.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....99&postcount=7
Old 08-30-2006, 10:39 AM
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warped wheel or rotor. If its a wheel you could try finding which one is warped and rotate it to the back and see if its helps
Old 08-30-2006, 11:37 AM
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Well regardless if drilled and slotted are more effective or not, hit up the WS6store. Their prices are UNBEATABLE! Much cheaper than stock rotors for all 4 and look better.
Old 08-31-2006, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MavrikTA
Well regardless if drilled and slotted are more effective or not, hit up the WS6store. Their prices are UNBEATABLE! Much cheaper than stock rotors for all 4 and look better.
And deal with reduced stopping effectiveness, and possible 'brake pad cheese grater' effects chewing up pads like there's no tomorrow. And eventual cracking too.

Strano has a great deal on a set of blanks. Go there and get those instead. Not only are they inexpensive, they are actually thicker/heavier than the stock rotors, so they won't warp, and will withstand the heat better - and not chew up pads or crack, all while giving maximal braking.
Old 08-31-2006, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by HPP
And deal with reduced stopping effectiveness, and possible 'brake pad cheese grater' effects chewing up pads like there's no tomorrow. And eventual cracking too.

Strano has a great deal on a set of blanks. Go there and get those instead. Not only are they inexpensive, they are actually thicker/heavier than the stock rotors, so they won't warp, and will withstand the heat better - and not chew up pads or crack, all while giving maximal braking.
The dude has only 31K on the car and doesnt know the difference between an alignment issue and warped rotors.....I doublt seriously that he is Auto-Xing it or driving it hard enough to see any adverse effects from "sub par" rotors! For daily driving the WS6store drilled/slotted rotors should be perfectly fine. Afterall, if the design concept was good for nothing but destroying pads I dont think that drilled/slotted rotors would be found on factory vehicles(think WRX).
Old 08-31-2006, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MavrikTA
Afterall, if the design concept was good for nothing but destroying pads I dont think that drilled/slotted rotors would be found on factory vehicles(think WRX).
Its on there for bling factor and the manufacturers admit it.

Wilwood:
http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor..._answer/07.asp

Baer:
http://www.baer.com/Baer_tech/FAQ.html

Here are just a few more threads on the subject:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=infamous
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/435436-do-i-really-need-cross-drilled-slotted-rotors.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/262940-replacing-rotors-what-get.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/416955-warped-rotors-need-advice.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/325290-dimpled-vs-cross-drilled-rotors.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/228985-brake-pads-rotors-you-been-through.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=warp
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=slotted
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=rotor
Old 08-31-2006, 08:02 PM
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Well I still haven't changed the rotors due to money issues...but usually when you have a warped rotor you'll feel a pulsating in the brake pedal...but that's just it, I don't. Only in the steering wheel. And it's not always constant...just at certain higher speeds.
Old 08-31-2006, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Drews91Maro
Well I still haven't changed the rotors due to money issues...but usually when you have a warped rotor you'll feel a pulsating in the brake pedal...but that's just it, I don't. Only in the steering wheel. And it's not always constant...just at certain higher speeds.
Where you feel the vibration depends on which rotors are warped. Warped front rotors will cause a left-to-right vibration/tugging in the steering wheel.
Old 08-31-2006, 09:01 PM
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Mine pulses real bad through the pedal but doesn't do what is described here. Does that mean my rears are probably the bad ones?

Not that it matters, i'll replace all 4 anyway.
Old 09-01-2006, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Drews91Maro
Well I still haven't changed the rotors due to money issues...but usually when you have a warped rotor you'll feel a pulsating in the brake pedal...but that's just it, I don't. Only in the steering wheel. And it's not always constant...just at certain higher speeds.
Mine is the same way (I have the Strano blanks and PBR pads at home, wating for time to get the install done), sometimes there is no shaking, sometimes it's real bad. Usually worse at higher speeds.

When I talked to someone at Strano, the first thing they asked was if I felt pulsating in the pedal. And to be honest, I never did. Later, I started paying more attention, and at higher speeds, under hard braking, I do actually feel pulsating. It could be from the back, or it could be a case of simply needing to clamp the calipers tightly enough to get the pulse felt through my shoes - or it could be that I'm just not very sensitive to it.

In any event, what you're experiencing must be related to the braking system, if it only occurs when braking. And since the stock rotors are known to warp, and since people who have had warped rotors feel this very effect..... it's likely that's what's going on, whether you feel pulsing or not.

Just remember to get a set of new pads to go with the rotors, bleed the system thoroughly, and follow proper bed in procedure after the install is complete.


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