davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

I have the SLP kit. I would have got the SJM kit if I had known more about it then.

I bought the SLP kit for ease of operation. Install was easy.

the SJM kit has better options like the indicator light.

MdFormula350

iTrader: (4)

I have one for my 91 formula and it works like it should.

i do agree the wiring should have a on circuit and then an activate circuit, better to be safe when it comes to brakes.

also it took me a few times to tighten the nuts on the seloniod before it would stop leaking.

CULATR

iTrader: (96)

OK, im reopening this ........has anyone with a slp kit changed their switch setup to make it safer ? if so please post pics and how you did it ...

GETGONE

iTrader: (5)

I haven't done it but should be easy enough to wire in a momentary switch on the ground side of the toggle switch. Unless the switch was on it wouldn't activate the line lock when you press the button.

CULATR

iTrader: (96)

anybody got a schematic of the slp line lock wiring up??? i need one my car came with one already installled and the mod bug has bitten and i need to do some modifications lol !!! help please on a wiring diagram!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Made this up for ya real fast... This should work. I think SLP has you just putting it all on a toggle...or maybe thats another company. Anyway...this is how SJM sets up their LL kits up. Works great.

You dont need a status light...but its a good thing to put in. If you need anymore help just ask.

Justin

GETGONE

iTrader: (5)

That's NOT how the SLP kits are wired. The power has a fused wire going directly to the fuse block terminal underhood. the ground wire is run inside and that is what has the toggle switch on it to activate it. Since the solenoid is only power and ground to activate the above schematic can be used and is the NHRA approved setup for a linelock, vs the toggle switch only of the SLP kit.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Im pretty sure thats how SJM has it set up... Dont know about SLP...all I know about SLP is that they just use a toggle...IIRC. Plus that way if you want an LED you only have to ground the LED not run another power wire to it...

However...I forgot to put a fuse in that wiring schematic. I did it this morning and kinda quick. Add your fuse on the positive side right after your power source.

J.

GETGONE

iTrader: (5)

SLP setup is how I described above. That's the setup on my car. I believe SJM is how you have your schematic laid out sans fuse.

01sscam

I have the SLP kit, I would have purchased the SJM part but i noticed all of the unprofessional bashing they were doing towards SLP. So I purchased the SLP one instead. I have mine in my ash tray so no one can touch it while i'm driving. Also i've had no leaks so far. one of the best things i've purchased for my car. Very pleased with this part from SLP.

GETGONE

iTrader: (5)

Mine leaks and it sucks. I thought I had it stopped and just looked under the hood the other day and the top of the front subframe is all covered with fluid again. I need to find the Loctite stuff that stops fluid leaks I had seen someone talk about.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

I HATE leaky brake fittings. How tight do you make them before they strip? Who knows... haha. Just gotta keep at them til they stop. I got lucky and none of mine leaked after the final tightening. But I checked them like crazy because I was afraid of it happening.

I updated the schematic above per request to show the position of the fuse. Only thing is...I cant remember what size fuse goes in there, and I dont have my car today so I cant check. I dont think it was very big...maybe 15A? someone will chime in with that Im sure.

J.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

I'm sorry that you felt that we were bashing a company. It's unfortunate that you feel that way. I state benefits between our kits against others. I also state how our kits can be a better choice for a customer due to design intent.

As described above, SLP's electrical circuit is far from safe, non-conventional and simply poorly designed. It is not only non-NHRA legal, it would never pass any electrical safety standards. This isn’t bashing, they are simply facts. I would hope that an engineer did not design it. An electrician would cringe at the design flaws.

It's unfortunate that you've glossed over my statements and differences and considered it bashing. The internet flourishes with copy-cat setups and attempts to create something “new”. It’s a shame when some companies attempt to copy a design but create an un-safe situation.

You did attempt to rectify the shortcomings of the other manufactures design by hiding the switch so no one can touch it. This solves only a few problems. What if your wire shorts out? What if your switch malfunctions? You have no feedback in your setup to even know when something as such could be occurring. You will be in for a very big surprise when you go to step on your brakes and your car locks up if any of the above occurs.

CULATR

iTrader: (96)

Well on my slp setup its got a 10 amp fuse coming off the pos side would this be safe to use still when i rewire it for the above?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Crap...I forgot to check for you. I even made a little note on my phone to remind me to look. But 10A should be fine. If anything, you want to go lower. Rather it blow sooner than its supposed to than waiting for the wires to melt before blowing. Try it...You should only be on the solenoid button for a few seconds while doing your burnout. So Ide say hold the solenoid on for a bit, and if it doesnt pop, youre ok. if it pops, move up to a 15A and try that. But you should be good.

J.

CULATR

iTrader: (96)

thanks !!! i appreciate it alot!!

Ls1Envy

iTrader: (6)

Your going to wish you had ABS when that old lady pulls out infront of you while your doing 55.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

This can be debated all day long. Regarding racing, ABS is far from reading accurate feedback. Especially folks changing characteristics of the car i.e. brakes, rotors, tire size etc. OEM ABS is not setup properly and will not react appropriately.

The stock setup does not take these changes into consideration. This is why ABS tends to react improperly since it's basing its input and resultant output on stimuli it wasn't designed for. Now if you could tune ABS for changes, it would be fantastic and help more.

If you're driving the car in its OEM state, then it will perform very well. If you’re concerned about losing ABS, then keep it. Don’t modify your car, don’t change to an aftermarket K-member or alter the car from stock, you may be putting yourself into a dangerous state.

…For the rest of the folks, if you’re looking to increase performance, have nothing but problems, trying to lose weight, don’t want to deal with troubleshooting a non-programmable component, want to take control of the car instead of letting the car control you, remove ABS, change suspension components.

Alter the car to curtail to either a more RR vehicle or drag setup. Vehicles are setup for the general public and at a well-rounded state. The reason why people modify their car is to move the car to meet the demands of their goals albeit drag or road racing. They want to increase performance. Changing the K-member etc., adding a cage obviously changes the original intent or state. Typically most of these are all improvements to meet the goals of the driver.

Removing ABS, increases engine space, drops quite a bit of weight, increases air flow, decreases RR and drag track issues, give the user much more possibilities in racing combinations, lowers costs of many repairs, lowers costs of rear-end purchases...I can keep rambling on….but I think you get the picture. I’ll state that most that have removed ABS probably would never look back and are happy they don’t have to deal with ABS or any of their issues again!

I’m an old man by many of the folks on the board, most of my vehicles have never had ABS, actually not even my normal daily drivers…It has little value on a race vehicle unless it could be tuned for different setups. For a daily street car that I’d use for my groceries, pick up the kids etc, a racing car is not what I’d use. I’d use my Toyota or any of the other typical street cars out there. With the price of gas, more and more folks probably are not even using their modified cars as often but more as a pleasure vehicle.

This is getting way off topic though to the original question of the LL setups not ABS delete...lol

jay_99z

iTrader: (5)

I have an SLP unit and it has worked perfect every time. Going on 2 years now.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

I agree on the ABS thing. Every ABS car I drive just seems like Im not connected to the brakes. My car does fantastic in panic stops as it is... Ive tweaked the willwood valve a few times, and I have it dialed in to my cars performance and my driving style. Under paniced braking, happened once already, I get squawking from all 4. Rears will start to lock slightly...but its easily regulated with the stop pedal. In rain...they lock up, but you really gotta jump on them. And honestly, most of the people that are modding their cars to that extent have a DD that doesnt see rain hardly at all. Same with snow. For those that HAVE to drive in bad weather, I suggest keeping the ABS, because I think it does help keep control when the roads suck. One thing I do hate, is the feeling of an ABS car on slippery surfaces. Its like you are jamming the brakes but nothing is happening sometimes. I realize why it does it...but its just a weird feeling. Anyway...just my .02...

Justin