subframe connectors
#1
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subframe connectors
Anything specific I should know?
thinking the 3 point ones are better and get it welded?
looking at UMI/SLP/RPM Speed right now. Anyone use these 3 pointers?
thinking the 3 point ones are better and get it welded?
looking at UMI/SLP/RPM Speed right now. Anyone use these 3 pointers?
Last edited by Finite1; 09-16-2006 at 10:17 AM.
#3
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Hello,
If you need any help choosing or have any questions please ask and I will be glad to help. Our 3-Point version is very popular and we get many compliments on how well they fit and tuck under the car. If you take a look at the installation pictures you will see how we have actually bent the bracing to follow the contour of the vehicles floor. This really allows the item to tuck up nice and does not reduce ground clearance.
Thank you
Ryan
If you need any help choosing or have any questions please ask and I will be glad to help. Our 3-Point version is very popular and we get many compliments on how well they fit and tuck under the car. If you take a look at the installation pictures you will see how we have actually bent the bracing to follow the contour of the vehicles floor. This really allows the item to tuck up nice and does not reduce ground clearance.
Thank you
Ryan
#4
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I heartily recommend any of UMIs stuff, I have much of it. However, your first mod should be shocks, hands down - Bilstein HDs or Konis. Shocks made more difference than all the rest of my suspension mods combined. You WILL kick yourself for not doing them sooner, I guarantee it.
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#8
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Thanks UMI Rep! Only question I really have it about how long do you think it would take a shop to weld these in for me? I like the UMI right now cause they offer a weld-in thats already powdercoated. Will most likely go UMI.
The thing of it is, I was hoping that this will in turn also help a chassis flex issue I'm having with pressing hard on my brakes/releasing and switching gears, causing a bit of very nasty sounding noise. my dealer said it was caused by chassis body flex from the powertrain.
so i'm hoping to kill a few birds with one stone with this mod looking into the future.
Thanks much folks.
The thing of it is, I was hoping that this will in turn also help a chassis flex issue I'm having with pressing hard on my brakes/releasing and switching gears, causing a bit of very nasty sounding noise. my dealer said it was caused by chassis body flex from the powertrain.
so i'm hoping to kill a few birds with one stone with this mod looking into the future.
Thanks much folks.
#9
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As the proud owner of just about every UMI componet availible for the 4th gen I second the assertion that you should upgrade your shocks first or do both at the same time. The immediate gripe of chassis flex on a 01 car sounds like your stock shocks are shot. Welding does not take a long time. You will want the shop to bolt in the stuff first on a lift that will put the load on the wheels. Grind pretty paint, weld about 75%, take car off that lift and put on a chassis lift and get the remaining spots welded in. Thanks Ryan for an execellent product. Pics coming soon.
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yeah i see what you are saying. I wanted to do shocks some time in the future anyways.
doing both wouldn't be a bad idea at the same time.
I'd just be surprised if it was my shocks, they feel fine otherwise and dont make noise.
thanks much for the info.
doing both wouldn't be a bad idea at the same time.
I'd just be surprised if it was my shocks, they feel fine otherwise and dont make noise.
thanks much for the info.
#11
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Shocks, shocks, shocks - Did I mention shocks?
Seriously, you are cheating yourself a whole new drive by not doing these first. You have no idea how good these cars can drive with good dampers. I only got decent ones and it was beyond night and day. If I'd done shocks first, I may not have done the rest of the stuff. Sway bars should be next, unless you're a drag race guy and don't care about handling.
What kind of a noise is the car making? Front or rear? If it's a creaking noise from the rear, try lubing your sway bar bushings. Dry/worn ones can cause a nasty sounding creak. Really common on these cars...
Seriously, you are cheating yourself a whole new drive by not doing these first. You have no idea how good these cars can drive with good dampers. I only got decent ones and it was beyond night and day. If I'd done shocks first, I may not have done the rest of the stuff. Sway bars should be next, unless you're a drag race guy and don't care about handling.
What kind of a noise is the car making? Front or rear? If it's a creaking noise from the rear, try lubing your sway bar bushings. Dry/worn ones can cause a nasty sounding creak. Really common on these cars...
#12
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good information and advice.
it's hard to tell exactly where it comes from.. it happens mainly when i push hard on the brake to switch gears and then let off the brake i hear the sound.. right.. like a creeking.
dealer said it's not my brakes,they were in good shape. I did have my rear sway bar bushings recently replaced, maybe 10k miles ago, but i'm not sure about the lubing .. perhaps you are right.
it's hard to tell exactly where it comes from.. it happens mainly when i push hard on the brake to switch gears and then let off the brake i hear the sound.. right.. like a creeking.
dealer said it's not my brakes,they were in good shape. I did have my rear sway bar bushings recently replaced, maybe 10k miles ago, but i'm not sure about the lubing .. perhaps you are right.
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after closer evaluation of my receipts.. it was the front-upper stabilizer bushings that were replaced with a new bushing and linkage kit.
so must be all stock in the back. oddly i remember him showing me the rear bar.
thanks much for your help so far.
so must be all stock in the back. oddly i remember him showing me the rear bar.
thanks much for your help so far.
Last edited by Finite1; 09-18-2006 at 01:36 AM.