rocket22

iTrader: (2)

I seen some where on here where some but a bump stop on the shock after cutting the factory bump stop off,where can I get them.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Koni makes them and I did that for a while. In my case, I damaged a set of Koni DA's due to bottoming them out. If you have the travel with your shocks to use that stop without damaging the shock, you can get them from a Koni dealer (sorry, I don't have the part numbers handy).

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

:shakes head:

I sell them, but you'd be far better off finding a way to install the OEM type back on the car.

01bird58

iTrader: (9)

Is there a way of shaving the stock ones down to make room for a 315mm tire? Or is the only solution to install spacers?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I run 11's and 315's with full size stock bumpstops. If you drag them with the tires or wheels, the offset is wrong. Don't screw up the suspension to "cure" your wheel fitment issues. And monkeying with the stops will screw something up. Even cutting them in half makes them less effective, and they are a integral part of the suspension.

rocket22

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the response.

SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

Say Sam, what, if any, modifications did YOU have to do to get 315s to not rub?

BirdmanLS1

iTrader: (3)

I have heard that the Nitto DR's dont require any modifications to fit, but other DR's have had to pound the wheel well and what not. An adjustable PHB is pretty much mandatory too i think... i may be wrong tho.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Rolled fenders, carefully picking wheel offset, and a REAL PHB.... And they do rub a touch from time to time, but also under over 1g of cornering. 315's are BIG, and some are bigger than others. Pick a narrower one and it'll help a lot.

SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

Is the UMI double adj. a real phb? Heh.

'Trust'

iTrader: (24)

I assume by real PHB you mean one that isn't factory and is adj.? What are the sizes/offsets/backspacing on your wheels?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I'm not sure I follow.... Meaning UMI's biggest PHB is not? For something relatively easy to make, there ar a lot of junk ones out there. UMI isn't aluminum (good). Used high-quality rod-ends (some don't), the welds are very strong (and battle tested by yours truly) which isn't always the case on chrome-moly steel as many folks weld it too fast and it becomes brittle, they don't.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I mean an adjustable bar with rod-ends at both ends..... poly bushed PHB's are not IMO "real" PHB's as bushings still deflect.

As for wheel offset and such. Well, I can't give all the secrets away randomly on the web, but also not all cars are exactly the same (and again the actual section widths vary).

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Thanks Sam, I also have a double adjustable PHB bar here that survived a 50 mph crash into a curb, craking the axles and destroying the rear end, I won't mention the members car unless they want too. The PHB did bend like a bananna but the welds show no cracks and held up fine.. you want a part to bend before a weld breaks.. it shows a good weld.

I am not sure I follow either SmokeySS?

SmokeySS

iTrader: (7)

I just bought and received your DA chrome moly panhard bar through Stranoparts and I'm double checking that I got a "REAL" one. It was half a joke.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

ahhh ok, no biggie and good to hear

Guess we took it the wrong way... no worries!

Thanks for the order
Ryan

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Oh, I get it... just mis-understood the tone (gotta love e-mail).

BTW, the PHB Ryan was referring to, came off of *MY* car. It was wrecked this summer, about 2 months before Nationals (not by me) and we pulled a lot of strings to get it fixed in time for Nationals (thank god, because it went *quite* well).
The damage was big, about $8k worth but the welds on that PHB held up great, I actually gave it back to him on purpose so he would know how it held up.