whats the difference in adj. panhard bars
Well I just bought the UMI DA one, and was told that DA is on car adjustable (that's why I wanted it), and adjustable is not on car adjustable. Only what I heard, and placed my order based upon it. HTH.
-J
-J
Originally Posted by lastcall190
Well I just bought the UMI DA one, and was told that DA is on car adjustable (that's why I wanted it), and adjustable is not on car adjustable. Only what I heard, and placed my order based upon it. HTH.
-J
-J
http://www.umiperformance.com/2022.aspx
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Sacramento, CA
I have an On-Car Adj. PHR from UMI and would definitely recommend it. It's much easier to adjust with a crescent wrench than it would be to take it off and adjust it hoping you adjusted it correctly. Worth the extra money over a regular adjustable PHR IMO.
Originally Posted by formula402
i guess i'll go with the umi on car adj. i just wanted to know the difference. thanks for the info guys.
The on-car adjustable, # 2022 is our most popular. It allows easy on-car adjustments and is some what inexpensive.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
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See, I won't personally use anything less than the big unit with rod-ends at each end. If you are upgrading your PHB to get rid of deflection.... well, urethane still deflects.
And the big double rod-ended PHB is not hard to adjust, but you do have to leave the jam-nuts loose when you put it on, then you can just adjust the bar right on the car and when you get it where you need it, pull the two bolts, tighten the jam nuts and put the PHB back in. Not exactly hard and only takes about 10 minutes more at most. A small price to pay IMHO.
And the big double rod-ended PHB is not hard to adjust, but you do have to leave the jam-nuts loose when you put it on, then you can just adjust the bar right on the car and when you get it where you need it, pull the two bolts, tighten the jam nuts and put the PHB back in. Not exactly hard and only takes about 10 minutes more at most. A small price to pay IMHO.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
I basically got mine to get rid of the rubber bushings and to have the adjustability since im lowering the car soon. I had the bar for a long time tho I just recently decided to use it on my 4th gen. I sold my poly/poly lca's tho cause what you said about the binding.
Anything other than a double rod ended unit is a waste of money IMO. I originally went with a Spohn rod/poly unit with the adjuster offset and it deflected almost as much as the stock piece. I then went with UMI's double rod ended unit and it was like night and day difference. Adjustment is not that bad at all as Sam mentioned... If anyone is planning on running 11's in the back, this bar is a must to help keep them from rubbing...
Last edited by ssPetess; Nov 15, 2006 at 03:26 PM.
Originally Posted by logikal6785
What does the PHB have to do with fitting 11's under there? Not trying to be rude, I just don't understand why ?
Poly deflects quite a lot. It's stiffer yes and deflects more slowly, but it will still deform under load. The greater the load (bigger tires, more grip, whatever), the more the deflection.
I tried a PHB years ago that was poly/poly at both ends. While it helped the feel a bit because the bushings are stiffer, the tires rubbed just as much as with a stock bar. With the installation of a rod-ended bar (both ends) the rubbing stopped almost completely. Of course tires are not all the same width and there are other variables. But polyurethane is still a flexible substance, and the greater the load on the PHB, the more you will see the difference between poly and rod-ends and less of a difference between rubber and poly.
I tried a PHB years ago that was poly/poly at both ends. While it helped the feel a bit because the bushings are stiffer, the tires rubbed just as much as with a stock bar. With the installation of a rod-ended bar (both ends) the rubbing stopped almost completely. Of course tires are not all the same width and there are other variables. But polyurethane is still a flexible substance, and the greater the load on the PHB, the more you will see the difference between poly and rod-ends and less of a difference between rubber and poly.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
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Thanks for the explanation, I thought what the other post meant was that using a rod-ended PHB would somehow allow you to fit a physically larger (wider) wheel/tire combo in the wheelwell, which made no sense; that a near-zero deflection PHB would keep same sized tires from rubbing is definitely understandable. Istn' clarification great?
