Suspension & Brakes Springs | Shocks | Handling | Rotors

aluminum

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-25-2006, 03:52 PM
  #21  
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
 
soulless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: searching for the perfect driving line
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I agree with the general consensus. AL for the lcas and phb are fine but the torque arm is subjected to different types of loads. In fact, I am about to install some AL lcas and phb right now. If you need any specfic info just let me know, I will be taking pics during the install.
Old 05-06-2007, 05:25 PM
  #22  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Big Bird WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

well buddy of mine beat me to buying the lcas and torque arm first. well we got it put on and my god. they rule. and the workmenship looks great. he has ran 5 passes on the torque arm. i don't thnik 10.67 for the fastest is that bad. he was running close to the same thing on spohn chromoly set. but saved wieght. and would of saved money. so what you guys think now?
Old 05-07-2007, 01:00 AM
  #23  
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
 
soulless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: searching for the perfect driving line
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
well buddy of mine beat me to buying the lcas and torque arm first. well we got it put on and my god. they rule. and the workmenship looks great. he has ran 5 passes on the torque arm. i don't thnik 10.67 for the fastest is that bad. he was running close to the same thing on spohn chromoly set. but saved wieght. and would of saved money. so what you guys think now?
It is great that it is working. Have any pics? More info on it would be great.
Old 05-07-2007, 08:11 PM
  #24  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Big Bird WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i can get that. give me a couple of days
Old 05-08-2007, 11:19 AM
  #25  
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
Sam Strano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 9,591
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts

Default

I won't use aluminum for either the PHB or the LCA's. Seen them bend, and frankly considering the small amount of weight anyway, why risk it. While I hear all the moans and groans about how strong aluminum is and all, I've seen an Aluminum PHB bend (a production part from a reputable company) without hitting a thing. Sure it took a fast car on R-compound tires, but the fact is it bent none the less. Considering a CM PHB is a whopping 5 pounds or so, you might save a pound with aluminum (and even less on LCA's since they are smaller).

Not worth the risk IMHO. What's harder to crush, an aluminum can, or a steel one?

YMMV, and it's great that folks haven't had issues aluminum. I know people who don't change their oil either and haven't blown motors, but I still change mine.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Old 05-08-2007, 08:03 PM
  #26  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Big Bird WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

well then i will get steel ones on the lca and just use there aluminum torque arm. well i know you wanted to include that too. we already had this talk. but one aluminum thing broke and now it is all bad. well i have seen many steel and chromoly things break. so maybe i should stay away from that. and do like $1000 titanium. every thing breaks. life goes on. just repalce it. like steel stuff.
Old 05-09-2007, 11:05 AM
  #27  
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
Sam Strano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 9,591
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts

Default

I should add that I would DEFINITELY not use an aluminum torque arm, I'd sooner use aluminum LCA's and PHB's.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Old 05-10-2007, 05:39 PM
  #28  
TECH Fanatic
 
gun5l1ng3r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, CA
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I agree with Sam on every point!
Old 05-10-2007, 05:59 PM
  #29  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Big Bird WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

so you agree cause one aluminum part breaks. now all aluminum parts are bad. well what about the guy i know running 10s. on a street car. my hats off to him.
Old 05-10-2007, 06:35 PM
  #30  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
 
speed_demon24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 4,609
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
so you agree cause one aluminum part breaks. now all aluminum parts are bad. well what about the guy i know running 10s. on a street car. my hats off to him.
Wow 5 passes on it sure tested how strong it is. My frient went 10.2@135 on a 10 bolt, does that mean drag racers should stick with them? He also put down 667rwhp through a turbo 400 on a stock bottom end ls1, I guess a built motor isn't needed then either.
Old 05-12-2007, 03:12 PM
  #31  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Big Bird WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

good call, but i guess time will tell. and a 10 bolt should run 10s. but you are fighting the wrong points. drag racers don't run 10s or have 600 horse. they run 7s and 8s and have 1000, or 1200 hosres. 10s that is the street car that lives down the street. i am just saying that for a street car(STREET CAR) running10s on aluminum is pretty good.
Old 05-14-2007, 11:59 AM
  #32  
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
Sam Strano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 9,591
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts

Default

And you disagree because why? FWIW, the PHB I saw bend was on a Mustang. Happened @ an autocross on tires that are street legal. Sticky tires, what I compete on too, but considering we can pull about 1.2g max and a PHB bent, that was all I needed to see.

Go ahead, run little aluminum tubes. And you'll probably tell us how some really high end cars run aluminum suspension part too. And they do. But they quite large castings or forged pieces. And not all aluminum is the same, and not all the uses of it are the same. We all have aluminum wheels on our cars, even from the factory. Does that mean any aluminum wheel is as strong? Hell no, and some companies will actually say that their wheels aren't intended for certain uses.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Old 05-14-2007, 12:25 PM
  #33  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (21)
 
koolaid_kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 3,023
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Well, I am not trying to stir the pot on what appears to be a rather controversial thread, but I would like to provide some engineering reasoning here:
There will be 2 forces acting on these components, longitudinal and rotational.
Longitudinal forces act along the centerline of the device. Let's use the panhard rod as the example. The longitudinal forces act along the length of the rod, from one end to the other. This serves to either compress or stretch the rod. In this case, I would expect to see little difference between aluminum and steel.
Rotatlional forces act in two axes. The first would be to attempt to twist or rotate the bar, causing the ends to no longer be parallel with each other. In this case, my money would be on steel. The second would be to attempt to bend the bar in either a clockwise or counter-clockwise direction, with the ends still parallel but a noticeable bend somewhere near the center. Again, I would put my money on aluminum.
IMHO, due to the initial cost of either type of material, I would prefer to go steel and minimize the risk.
Hope this helps.
Old 05-14-2007, 05:51 PM
  #34  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
 
speed_demon24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 4,609
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Hey same how are those aluminum swaybars coming along?
Old 05-14-2007, 06:56 PM
  #35  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (21)
 
koolaid_kid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 3,023
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Sam Strano
...And you'll probably tell us how some really high end cars run aluminum suspension part too. And they do. But they quite large castings or forged pieces. And not all aluminum is the same, and not all the uses of it are the same...
There are two ways to increase the strength of both aluminum and steel; size, and quality. There are several grades of aluminum, the better the grade, the higher the cost. Of course you can make them larger in diameter, but then clearances come into play. The same is true for steel. For UMI components, for example, they make mild steel components, and at an added cost, chromoly steel (which is actually an alloy of chromium, molybdenum and steel). They think so highly of these panhard bars that the diameter is actually smaller than the mild steel unit yet retains at least the same strength, and probably higher (not having any data sheets, of course).
Old 05-14-2007, 07:25 PM
  #36  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Big Bird WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

the torque arm is made of 1 1/4 6061 aluminum. with 1/4 wall. all steel stuff has 1/8 wall. and with this increase in wall size strenght increases. but wieght is still less.
the lca and phb are made of 1 1/4 2024 aluminum with 1/4 wall. and same from up top applies to this. i dont know. aint any engineer about it. but i know. if i get the same streght as chromoly, less the wieght, and cheaper. i will get it.

and if you want info on this stuff pm me.
Old 05-15-2007, 08:50 AM
  #37  
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (6)
 
BMR Suspension's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Sam Strano
I won't use aluminum for either the PHB or the LCA's. Seen them bend, and frankly considering the small amount of weight anyway, why risk it. While I hear all the moans and groans about how strong aluminum is and all, I've seen an Aluminum PHB bend (a production part from a reputable company) without hitting a thing. Sure it took a fast car on R-compound tires, but the fact is it bent none the less. Considering a CM PHB is a whopping 5 pounds or so, you might save a pound with aluminum (and even less on LCA's since they are smaller).

Not worth the risk IMHO. What's harder to crush, an aluminum can, or a steel one?

YMMV, and it's great that folks haven't had issues aluminum. I know people who don't change their oil either and haven't blown motors, but I still change mine.

Agree totally......but some people will still insist on using them. I have also seen how fast a loose rod end will destroy a set of threads in an aluminum component and cause a failure.

Lee Spicher
Lee@bmrfabrication.com
(813)986-9302
Old 05-15-2007, 07:27 PM
  #38  
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
 
Big Bird WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

but BMR. you are making a set of lca for f-bodies out of aluminum. you don't make any sense.
Old 05-16-2007, 08:05 AM
  #39  
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (6)
 
BMR Suspension's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
but BMR. you are making a set of lca for f-bodies out of aluminum. you don't make any sense.

That part is CNC'd out of solid billet stock and has no threaded ends on it. Not even a fair comparison to a threaded piece of aluminum tubing.

Lee Spicher
lee@bmrfabrication.com
(813)986-9302
Old 05-16-2007, 09:54 AM
  #40  
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
Sam Strano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Brookville, PA
Posts: 9,591
Received 142 Likes on 92 Posts

Default

Which I told this Big Bird WS6 fellow weeks ago when he, out of the blue, PM'ed me telling me I was wrong about aluminum.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:23 AM.