help prioritize purchases
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TECH Enthusiast
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From: Hutchinson, MN
help prioritize purchases right now i have SFC and LCA relocation brackets.
i want to get the car better prepared for a my first road course event next year.
I'm going to have a limited budget for a while and here is my list of things i have to get yet. I'm thinking the sway bars will be the most helpful on the road course and should be bought first. whats your thoughts on it?
LCA rod/poly
adjustable panhard
sway bars
tranny cooler
STB - still being debated if its worth it
thinking about just getting my stock LCA's boxed in for now.
i want to get the car better prepared for a my first road course event next year.
I'm going to have a limited budget for a while and here is my list of things i have to get yet. I'm thinking the sway bars will be the most helpful on the road course and should be bought first. whats your thoughts on it?
LCA rod/poly
adjustable panhard
sway bars
tranny cooler
STB - still being debated if its worth it
thinking about just getting my stock LCA's boxed in for now.
Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
Um...shocks?
-Mike
-Mike
I vote shocks before any of those options. Second would be a rod-ended PHB, third would be sway bars.
The transmission cooler for the A4 is a must also. They are cheap, around 40-50 for a B&M 24k GVW unit.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Land O' Lakes, FL
You should do brakes first (good pads + fluid, at least) before anything else if you are going on a roadcourse. Then from your list, I would do swaybars. And don't waste money on a STB
Last edited by fa63; Dec 10, 2006 at 10:05 PM.
Originally Posted by -Freak-
i want to get the car better prepared for a my first road course event next year.
I'm going to have a limited budget for a while
I'm going to have a limited budget for a while
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/608433-question-help-suspension-racing.html
While your stock shocks will really suck, you will kill your $1000 budget and then some on shocks and springs.
And for a first time participant, getting race rubber is probably overkill.
I would suggest the following, having been exactly where you are ...
BUy a set of Carbotech XP8 pads for the front. $250 They have good heat performance and are easy on the rotors. Be prepared to install new rotors after the event, though. chances are good you will stress crack or warp them. $60 a pair at Autozone
Replace your brake fluid with something more "high performance". If this is a one time deal, use Valvoline Syn-power ($10). It's a good street fluid with good hydroscopic properties. If it's an on-goig deal ATE Super Blue or Motul are the next step up ($30). You can usually find these locally at motorcycle shops. And the ultimate is Castrol SRF. Literally, install it and forget about it ($80).
Get a good alignment. Get as much negative camber and as much positive caster as you can with zero toe. Your car will be much more stable. $100
Install a 5 pt. harness. You can get a decent G-Force 5 pt from Jegs for $125. Use of a harness in a street car has been debated over and over. It is my position that me having better control of the car while in high G manuevers is much safer than the probability of me pancaking the roof of the car. JMHO.
Change the oil and filter before and after the event. $100
Add an extra quart of oil. I ran 7 qts with a stock pan and never had an issue. At that level, it will use it, so keep an eye on it. High G left handers could cause oil starvation. You have a 2K2, so the liklihood is lessened, but we're talking about spinning a rod bearing. $10
Make SURE you have clean coolant and all your hoses are in good shape. $100 if you change.
Replace your power steering fluid with Redline synthetic. Your PS pump seals will thank you. $25
So, for under $800, you now have a car that is well prepped for a weekend on a road course. and preperation is key for an enjoyable weekend. Nothing is more frustrating thatn have nagging gremlins keep you off the track or send you home on the hook.
Once you get a couple DEs under your belt and begin feeling where the limits aof the car are and pushing those limits, then it's time to start looking at shocks, springs, tires and suspension components ... in that order.
Again, JMHO
And for a first time participant, getting race rubber is probably overkill.
I would suggest the following, having been exactly where you are ...
BUy a set of Carbotech XP8 pads for the front. $250 They have good heat performance and are easy on the rotors. Be prepared to install new rotors after the event, though. chances are good you will stress crack or warp them. $60 a pair at Autozone
Replace your brake fluid with something more "high performance". If this is a one time deal, use Valvoline Syn-power ($10). It's a good street fluid with good hydroscopic properties. If it's an on-goig deal ATE Super Blue or Motul are the next step up ($30). You can usually find these locally at motorcycle shops. And the ultimate is Castrol SRF. Literally, install it and forget about it ($80).
Get a good alignment. Get as much negative camber and as much positive caster as you can with zero toe. Your car will be much more stable. $100
Install a 5 pt. harness. You can get a decent G-Force 5 pt from Jegs for $125. Use of a harness in a street car has been debated over and over. It is my position that me having better control of the car while in high G manuevers is much safer than the probability of me pancaking the roof of the car. JMHO.
Change the oil and filter before and after the event. $100
Add an extra quart of oil. I ran 7 qts with a stock pan and never had an issue. At that level, it will use it, so keep an eye on it. High G left handers could cause oil starvation. You have a 2K2, so the liklihood is lessened, but we're talking about spinning a rod bearing. $10
Make SURE you have clean coolant and all your hoses are in good shape. $100 if you change.
Replace your power steering fluid with Redline synthetic. Your PS pump seals will thank you. $25
So, for under $800, you now have a car that is well prepped for a weekend on a road course. and preperation is key for an enjoyable weekend. Nothing is more frustrating thatn have nagging gremlins keep you off the track or send you home on the hook.
Once you get a couple DEs under your belt and begin feeling where the limits aof the car are and pushing those limits, then it's time to start looking at shocks, springs, tires and suspension components ... in that order.
Again, JMHO
Please, save yourself a LOT of cash and just prep the car as it sits, get some seat time, figure out what the car is doing and THEN begin throwing parts at it in order to address specific issues.
Throwing your wallet at the car serves no purpose other than to make your sig longer.
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From: Hutchinson, MN
--edited--
excellent advice mitchntx. Thanks!
i forgot to mention this is just a local club outing not a race event. but who knows what the future holds.
excellent advice mitchntx. Thanks!
i forgot to mention this is just a local club outing not a race event. but who knows what the future holds.
Last edited by -Freak-; Dec 11, 2006 at 07:14 AM.
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One more thing, move your LCA's back to the stock location. Having them too low in the rear can lead to roll oversteer (body roll induced oversteer). For road course use, you don't want them down on the brackets.
As a rookie AXer, brakes, brakes, brakes, brakes!!! Did I mention brakes? You will only be able to go as fast as you will be able to slow the car down. Fluid change and good pads are a must. Then what the others said.
Launching!
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From: searching for the perfect driving line
Originally Posted by WADDISME
As a rookie AXer, brakes, brakes, brakes, brakes!!! Did I mention brakes? You will only be able to go as fast as you will be able to slow the car down. Fluid change and good pads are a must. Then what the others said.
I know you're on a budget but you might consider getting new rotors while you are at it. Autozone has the Duralast rotors for about $40 a each and people have had good things to say about them. I don't know about other people but I have warped to sets of OEM's by just thinking about braking.
Originally Posted by -Freak-
right now i have SFC and LCA relocation brackets.
i want to get the car better prepared for a my first road course event next year.
I'm going to have a limited budget for a while and here is my list of things i have to get yet. I'm thinking the sway bars will be the most helpful on the road course and should be bought first. whats your thoughts on it?
LCA rod/poly
adjustable panhard
sway bars
tranny cooler
STB - still being debated if its worth it
thinking about just getting my stock LCA's boxed in for now.
i want to get the car better prepared for a my first road course event next year.
I'm going to have a limited budget for a while and here is my list of things i have to get yet. I'm thinking the sway bars will be the most helpful on the road course and should be bought first. whats your thoughts on it?
LCA rod/poly
adjustable panhard
sway bars
tranny cooler
STB - still being debated if its worth it
thinking about just getting my stock LCA's boxed in for now.
1 Shocks
2 Swaybars
3 Brakepads and better fluid
Don't bother with the STB. I noticed no difference. The front swaybar is what prevents body roll.
After that, theres lots of things you can do that will help you that don't come in any particular order.
And if you have a limited budget.... keep good care of your car or else you will end your car career quick. I've accepted the fact that this hobby is a money pit. Keep your eye on your oil levels after each event, and prepare to change your oil more often.
Look into a oil catch can setup