Custom 15" Brake Kit!!!
They look awesome! 
05-29-2007, 09:23 PM
#44
Originally Posted by Lythropus
It's very nice, I don't think it'll perform very well but nice on the eyes none-the-less...
Why in the world would you think it has LESS performance? You shouldn't fixate on rotational mass. Now if these were on a Yugo, then yeah, the acceleration may be effected, but GrnDragon is going to have 700-800HP so I don't think he is going to take a performance hit. Besides, the increased stopping power will more than compensate for the weight.
Last edited by JasonWW; 05-30-2007 at 12:36 AM.
06-01-2007, 09:51 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
He's already commented on the performance as sucking your eyeballs out. What more could you want?
Why in the world would you think it has LESS performance? You shouldn't fixate on rotational mass. Now if these were on a Yugo, then yeah, the acceleration may be effected, but GrnDragon is going to have 700-800HP so I don't think he is going to take a performance hit. Besides, the increased stopping power will more than compensate for the weight.
Why in the world would you think it has LESS performance? You shouldn't fixate on rotational mass. Now if these were on a Yugo, then yeah, the acceleration may be effected, but GrnDragon is going to have 700-800HP so I don't think he is going to take a performance hit. Besides, the increased stopping power will more than compensate for the weight.
Don't get me wrong it's a killer set-up and the car is freaking amazing, he definitely has skill and even if it doesn't follow some peoples taste it is very very well executed...it'll be a nice car when it's finished...
Last edited by Lythropus; 06-01-2007 at 09:58 PM.
06-02-2007, 02:48 AM
#46
Originally Posted by Lythropus
haha, you don't road race much do you?
Also, why are you laughing? Do you assume I'm one of the uninformed when it comes to brakes?
BTW, you only commented on the rotational mass, did you also mean to note it's additional weight and that effect on the suspension? I couldn't tell.
Last edited by JasonWW; 06-02-2007 at 08:05 AM.
06-02-2007, 10:34 AM
#47
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I re-read my post and didn't mean to sound like a dick...
My best prediction is that it'll stop a tad better than stock, a tad meaning if he kept a stock weight wheel and added some hawk pads and decent set of cross drilled rotors. You won't notice a difference in the way it affects the suspension unless you're recording lap times, or are real use to taking your car to the limit. Ofcourse I'd be scared to take that set-up to the limits, I'd hate to have to replace one of those rims!
Your right though it is a street car, which don't get me wrong mine is also with a much cheaper set-up than his...I wish I had that bling factor but I can't because I occasionally drag race. I just thought it was a little strange that the car was built strickly for the street, different strokes though...
Good luck with the set-up by the way and I want to hear more about the engine!
My best prediction is that it'll stop a tad better than stock, a tad meaning if he kept a stock weight wheel and added some hawk pads and decent set of cross drilled rotors. You won't notice a difference in the way it affects the suspension unless you're recording lap times, or are real use to taking your car to the limit. Ofcourse I'd be scared to take that set-up to the limits, I'd hate to have to replace one of those rims!
Your right though it is a street car, which don't get me wrong mine is also with a much cheaper set-up than his...I wish I had that bling factor but I can't because I occasionally drag race. I just thought it was a little strange that the car was built strickly for the street, different strokes though...
Good luck with the set-up by the way and I want to hear more about the engine!
06-02-2007, 03:53 PM
#48
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To clear some things up...
This car was a giant scope creep and snow balling project. I have researched many different ways to build a car for drag, auto x, and street but me being young/stubborn and putting all my eggs (money) in one basket have tried to build a car that will do WELL at all three. I know it is almost impossible to make one car great at more than just one of the 3 at a time. I wanted to take a car known as a cheap thrills car and make it out perform most of the $100k supercars. I know my main disadvantage is the old school solid axle, but I really believe I can make it handle well enough.
I've used this line before but the theme behind the build is to construct a "White Trash Super Car". I want the ability to go out and have fun with the car if I ever decide to drag or auto x, but I will never do it competitively.
Unfortunately the build has hit a fork in the road right now. I purchased a 1993 TA to put all my spare parts from the Lime Green TA on and try to sell and recoup some money to fund my engine. I just went back to Montana last weekend to finish up the 93 and drive it back to WA to sell, but my dad's paint job turned out soooooo Awesome and the car runs so good it's going to be hard to let it go (since I have been without any kind of HP for about 3 years). It looks VERY similar to the Lime Green TA but it is Pearl Orange and Black two-tone, ATI procharger, Baer Track+ brake kit, and 19x10 and 20x10 Intro Pentia wheels. If I don't/can't sell the 93 the Lime Green TA will have to sit another year or so before I can afford the engine/tranny. Decisions...Decisions!!!!
I am also just finishing up a custom gauge cluster for the Lime Green TA, since no one makes a 200mph overlay I decided to use Autometer Ultra lites. I have the 5" tach and 5" 200mph Speedo with blue LED lighting mounted in tinted lexan, and then behind the tinted lexan are the other 4 Nordskog blue digital gauges and single LEDs for blinkers/bright light/SES/etc. So when the car is off all you see is the two 5" gauges and when everything lights up the other gauges just kind of appear. I'll have pics soon after I wire it all up.
Sorry for the novel...
This car was a giant scope creep and snow balling project. I have researched many different ways to build a car for drag, auto x, and street but me being young/stubborn and putting all my eggs (money) in one basket have tried to build a car that will do WELL at all three. I know it is almost impossible to make one car great at more than just one of the 3 at a time. I wanted to take a car known as a cheap thrills car and make it out perform most of the $100k supercars. I know my main disadvantage is the old school solid axle, but I really believe I can make it handle well enough.
I've used this line before but the theme behind the build is to construct a "White Trash Super Car". I want the ability to go out and have fun with the car if I ever decide to drag or auto x, but I will never do it competitively.
Unfortunately the build has hit a fork in the road right now. I purchased a 1993 TA to put all my spare parts from the Lime Green TA on and try to sell and recoup some money to fund my engine. I just went back to Montana last weekend to finish up the 93 and drive it back to WA to sell, but my dad's paint job turned out soooooo Awesome and the car runs so good it's going to be hard to let it go (since I have been without any kind of HP for about 3 years). It looks VERY similar to the Lime Green TA but it is Pearl Orange and Black two-tone, ATI procharger, Baer Track+ brake kit, and 19x10 and 20x10 Intro Pentia wheels. If I don't/can't sell the 93 the Lime Green TA will have to sit another year or so before I can afford the engine/tranny. Decisions...Decisions!!!!
I am also just finishing up a custom gauge cluster for the Lime Green TA, since no one makes a 200mph overlay I decided to use Autometer Ultra lites. I have the 5" tach and 5" 200mph Speedo with blue LED lighting mounted in tinted lexan, and then behind the tinted lexan are the other 4 Nordskog blue digital gauges and single LEDs for blinkers/bright light/SES/etc. So when the car is off all you see is the two 5" gauges and when everything lights up the other gauges just kind of appear. I'll have pics soon after I wire it all up.
Sorry for the novel...
06-02-2007, 05:10 PM
#51
Originally Posted by GrnDragon
They only go down to 1997...
If I ever did it, I would have a big tach right in the middle and a small digital speed readout off to the side.
06-02-2007, 09:52 PM
#52
Copy & Paste Moderator
Originally Posted by Lythropus
cross drilled rotors
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
06-02-2007, 09:55 PM
#53
Originally Posted by VIP1
Cross Drilled rotors are not an upgrade.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
06-12-2007, 02:03 AM
#54
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Originally Posted by VIP1
Cross Drilled rotors are not an upgrade.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
I'm know for a fact my eradispeeds with hawk pads will stop faster than your oem replacements/hawks because that's the first set-up I had and the measurable distance was consistently around 10ft. They are an upgrade from stock because I warped stock ones easily on a road course...I've never warped an eradispeed or a brembo blank and since the eradispeed stops faster that's what I went with...all of this internet bench racing gets a bit rediculous...test for yourself, then use what works best for you...
Sorry for messing up your thread
06-13-2007, 12:27 AM
#55
although there is some debate on some of the modifications to the visual aspect of your car. i personal love everything. you can DEFINATELY tell you are a ME. minus the headlights you have the only (heavily custom modded) fbody that i actually like. i'm still waiting to see the finished product on the headlights though. i'm sure it'll be kick ***.
by the by, that freaking brake setup is freaking AMAZING! it's huge! major props to going truely custom on your car.
by the by, that freaking brake setup is freaking AMAZING! it's huge! major props to going truely custom on your car.
06-13-2007, 12:45 AM
#56
Copy & Paste Moderator
Originally Posted by Lythropus
I'm know for a fact my eradispeeds with hawk pads will stop faster than your oem replacements/hawks because that's the first set-up I had and the measurable distance was consistently around 10ft. They are an upgrade from stock because I warped stock ones easily on a road course...I've never warped an eradispeed or a brembo blank and since the eradispeed stops faster that's what I went with...all of this internet bench racing gets a bit rediculous...test for yourself, then use what works best for you...
Sorry for messing up your thread
Sorry for messing up your thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/726341-rotors-2001-trans-am-ws6.html
FAQ:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=5
Check out the FAQ section on the manufacturer sites where they admit that the holes are for looks.
Wilwood:
http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor..._answer/07.asp
Originally Posted by Wilwood
Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
http://www.baer.com/technical/faq/index.php
Originally Posted by Baer
What are the benefits to cross-drilling, slotting, and zinc-washing my rotors?
In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting! However, with today´s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with “outgassing”. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit “outgassing”, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack. Although cross-drilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs. Cross-drilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer´s rotors are cast with cross-drilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.
In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting! However, with today´s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with “outgassing”. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit “outgassing”, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack. Although cross-drilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs. Cross-drilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer´s rotors are cast with cross-drilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.
