Brake Conversion
Also, the f-body calipers have a bigger diameter piston than the c5 calipers.
The LG kit will let you keep the stock caliper and PAB. The C5 stuff is stronger (larger bolts, etc) and the Corvette calipers use a smaller piston to adjust the brake bias to compensate for the larger rotor. That's why there is a difference in piston diameters.
You'll have to convert to the C5 calipers and PAB's with the UMI and trackbrackets kits. The kits that use all C5 parts should be a bit stronger than the kits using the F-body parts. GM upgraded the Corvette stuff for heavier duty use. The kit that allows you to keep the stock stuff will be somewhat less expensive.
That's it in a nutshell.
C5 calipers on my camaro. i have the stock replacement Eradispeeds (not the +1) rotors on the camaro now. can i do this as just a swap out. i'll get vette brake pads and upgrade the brake lines. any help. sorry for the highjack.
The reason we have you replace the lines is that the larger rotor moves the caliper out and the stock hose could be too short when the steering wheel is turned fully. That can stretch and damage the hose. This can lead to big trouble if a hose fails. That's why the Corvette hoses are recommended with some of these kits.
C5 calipers on my camaro. i have the stock replacement Eradispeeds (not the +1) rotors on the camaro now. can i do this as just a swap out. i'll get vette brake pads and upgrade the brake lines. any help. sorry for the highjack.
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The reason we have you replace the lines is that the larger rotor moves the caliper out and the stock hose could be too short when the steering wheel is turned fully. That can stretch and damage the hose. This can lead to big trouble if a hose fails. That's why the Corvette hoses are recommended with some of these kits.
I've been planning on doing this over the winter, so I thought i'd throw it out to someone who seems to know what they're talking about. I'm still undecided about blank vs. drilled/slotted rotors, but i know enough about that to make an informed decision. It's the overall combo i'm interested in knowing about.
I've been planning on doing this over the winter, so I thought i'd throw it out to someone who seems to know what they're talking about. I'm still undecided about blank vs. drilled/slotted rotors, but i know enough about that to make an informed decision. It's the overall combo i'm interested in knowing about.
Yes, that's the right answer as far as parts go. Don't forget the C5 PAB to go with it.
Just wanted to know if that is a good idea for the price. Thanks.
I've been planning on doing this over the winter, so I thought i'd throw it out to someone who seems to know what they're talking about. I'm still undecided about blank vs. drilled/slotted rotors, but i know enough about that to make an informed decision. It's the overall combo i'm interested in knowing about.
I recently did the conversion on my 2000 SS and am very happy so far with the difference. I used the following parts.
2004 C5 Calipers and ubutment brackets
Earl's C5 SS lines
UMI Brackets
Hawk Pads
Powerstop C5 CD/Slotted Rotors
Doing the conversion this way saved me a great deal of money and gave me the upgrade I was looking for. Hope this helps.

im one of those guys who cant stand to do anything to my car unless i can change it back.. so i have pretty much 2 of everything. If im gonna swap to c5 brakes then im def gonna get another spindle.. from what you said i can pick up some junkyard lt1 spindles, cut 2 ears off, adn have the equivilent of a c5 modified ls1 spindle?
im one of those guys who cant stand to do anything to my car unless i can change it back.. so i have pretty much 2 of everything. If im gonna swap to c5 brakes then im def gonna get another spindle.. from what you said i can pick up some junkyard lt1 spindles, cut 2 ears off, adn have the equivilent of a c5 modified ls1 spindle?
Tomtom
Tomtom
Better yet, I'll present this (LT1 vs C5, LS1 should be similar, but the rotors and brackets will add a few lbs, but probably not 30....
):http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...ndpost&p=37644
Which is post 22 of this thread:
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.p...21&hl=lbs&st=0
I actually LOST weight with the conversion! Remember how all the C5 stuff was 32 lbs for each side? Well, the stuff that I took off weighed 33.5 lbs each side. I was very careful how I weighed everything. Here is the breakdown.
Old LT1 front Rotor:
16 lbs (this surprised me. Heavy little sucker)
Caliper, brake hose and pads:
13.5 lbs (caliper and hose was 11.5 lbs)
Metal cut off of the knuckle:
4 lbs
Add up the Rotor, Caliper, pads, hose, and cut metal:
33.5 lbs.
The rotational mass is still higher with the C5 kit, since the C5 rotor weighs 18.5 lbs and is one inch further out from the center than the LT1 rotor. It will be interesting to see if I will notice the 2.5 lb rotational mass difference.
I used the Stoptech stainless C5 lines. They are 15.75" from one end to the middle of the banjo bolt and fet GREAT. I also bought the Stoptech stainless lines for the rear, but all they had were rear lines for the LS1, but I can them a try. They were a little long. Hopefully they'll be o.k. The drivers side rear has a pretty tight curve to it, but at least it's stationary.
Last edited by trackbird; Jan 11, 2007 at 07:30 PM.



