SLP line lock
SLP line lock Ok I just got a SLP line lock for christmas and I opened it up and started puting it on my car... I was on the forms the other day and saw that people didn't like them and it seamed that there was something wrong with the wiring?
So I was just wondering what all is wrong with the line lock.
So I was just wondering what all is wrong with the line lock.
I've just heard that there is some flaws and I was wanting to see if I could improve them. I'm changing out the switch to a button! I can't belive that they put a togle switch like that on the kit!!!
hahaha nice sig pic by the way
hahaha nice sig pic by the way
Just installed mine last week and it works fine. Very easy install. I just need to get some teflon for the fittings that go into the selenoid, my leaks a little and I have it pretty tight, I dont want to tighten it any more so some teflon shold do the trick. Just a tip that you might want to put some on.
It's not NHRA or IHRA legal because it's a toggle switch and not a momentary switch. The other problem is it's ground activated the way it's set up. If the wire running into the car gets cut and shorts out it can activate the line lock since it's hooked direct to the hot side of the fuse box. I didn't even think about it being an issue until after I had installed mine and saw the posts on here. You can change the wiring so that the switch is on the positive side then wire in a momentary switch to make it NHRA/IHRA legal. Do a search and there's a thread someone drew up with the correct way to wire it.
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I uesd 4-5 years, still works great,when applied my front tires have never moved
LINE LOCK INFO
IS hole behind pcm , but I drill hole beside steering colum also ( drill from inside out ) put a peace of rubber hose in hole ran wire inside hose, then use same type wire wrap as GM,tie wrap to the big rubber hose comming over master cyl
I also mounted switch in ash tray
I have used this unit for 4-6 years with NO problems ( well yes one problem :::SLICK tires )
PS ::Connect brake line to master cyl and line lock ,the second line which goes to ABS block start it but leave it loose,remove cap from master cyl and let the lines grivity bleed watch the loose connection untill all air is out and run pure fluid ( may shake the line a little to help bleed ( REMEMBER BRAKE FLUID WILL REMOVE PAINT
I placed plastic sheet over fender)if does not gravity bleed blow into master cyl and have some one watch for fluid at ABS block >>>THIS way you do not have to bleed the brakes from under car- I had no problem of any kind
also the picture from SLP is UPSIDE DOWN install with the wire connection UP
Sorry for the long post, hope it helps
LINE LOCK INFO
IS hole behind pcm , but I drill hole beside steering colum also ( drill from inside out ) put a peace of rubber hose in hole ran wire inside hose, then use same type wire wrap as GM,tie wrap to the big rubber hose comming over master cyl
I also mounted switch in ash tray
I have used this unit for 4-6 years with NO problems ( well yes one problem :::SLICK tires )
PS ::Connect brake line to master cyl and line lock ,the second line which goes to ABS block start it but leave it loose,remove cap from master cyl and let the lines grivity bleed watch the loose connection untill all air is out and run pure fluid ( may shake the line a little to help bleed ( REMEMBER BRAKE FLUID WILL REMOVE PAINT
I placed plastic sheet over fender)if does not gravity bleed blow into master cyl and have some one watch for fluid at ABS block >>>THIS way you do not have to bleed the brakes from under car- I had no problem of any kind
also the picture from SLP is UPSIDE DOWN install with the wire connection UP
Sorry for the long post, hope it helps
Originally Posted by GETGONE
It's not NHRA or IHRA legal because it's a toggle switch and not a momentary switch. The other problem is it's ground activated the way it's set up. If the wire running into the car gets cut and shorts out it can activate the line lock since it's hooked direct to the hot side of the fuse box. I didn't even think about it being an issue until after I had installed mine and saw the posts on here. You can change the wiring so that the switch is on the positive side then wire in a momentary switch to make it NHRA/IHRA legal. Do a search and there's a thread someone drew up with the correct way to wire it.
That’s what I was going to do b/c I thought it was a real SHITTY design!
I also had a problem with the solenoid spinning on me where the gold colored metal and the chrome touch it unscrews there and it kept spinning on me.
All I have to say is that I would love to take it out of my car and smash it with a BFH and throw it away if the trash is even a worthy place for it!
Originally Posted by SS SLP2
also the picture from SLP is UPSIDE DOWN install with the wire connection UP
so does the gold part go up or down?
how does SLP mess up that bad?
wow look at the last pic on this link If you notice that the Solenoid isn't even theirs look at the wires on it. It's SLPs installation instructions.
http://www.slponline.com/inst/25000.pdf
http://www.slponline.com/inst/25000.pdf
Yeah..the instructions SUCK. I tried to make sure I put it in the right way and STILL managed to get it in upside down. I probably got mixed up looking at their damn instructions!
yea looks like mine hey on the guy looking for a switchi beleive i found one check out radio shack switch number #275-1566 specs are 1 x 3A 125VAC SPST
i already bought one i believe sometime back for another project ....i beleive this would work fine
i already bought one i believe sometime back for another project ....i beleive this would work fine
hey this is prob a stupid *** question....BUT, can i use the breaks normally even if the line lock is not hooked up...i ask because it will not be hooked up when i start drivng the car again, i will be wiring all that stuff later...im guessing yes because thats how it works anyways...brakes work normally until you activate the line lock...
GETGONE - I used the same gauge wire. I can't remember I think it was 18 gauge. I have a friend who's an EE and he said it would be fine. He checked some books at his work.
CULATR - I would recomend using a 20 Amp Pilot duty momentary switch. The same friend said to make sure it says PILOT DUTY. I think it has something to do with the constant load while the button is held down. That's been my challenge. I can't find a 20 AMP Pilot duty switch.
As GETGONE said - I will check Summit and Jegs for the switches rating.
CULATR - I would recomend using a 20 Amp Pilot duty momentary switch. The same friend said to make sure it says PILOT DUTY. I think it has something to do with the constant load while the button is held down. That's been my challenge. I can't find a 20 AMP Pilot duty switch.
As GETGONE said - I will check Summit and Jegs for the switches rating.