All I can say is wow!!!
01-30-2007, 07:02 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
I do want to point out that reading the first post he mentioned shocks and springs as well as the other things. But it reads like they didn't matter. I don't know what he used specifically, but I can assure you shocks are a HUGE change in these cars even when done all by themselves. I'm trying to say that when you make a lot of changes at once you can't tell which part did what to the car, which is why I prefer a more step-by-step method. In that way you can feel the changes, consider them, and know where to go next/what the parts did exactly.
Sure you can do just shocks first, but then you have to take it all apart again to do springs so you may as well do them both at the same time. And you could stop there and get used to them, but now you're driving with an out of adjustment rear-axle with the wrong pinion angle, LCA angle, and a panhard that can't adjust to the change.
01-30-2007, 09:01 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
now you're driving with an out of adjustment rear-axle with the wrong pinion angle, LCA angle, and a panhard that can't adjust to the change.
01-30-2007, 10:22 PM
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The pinion angle change is not detectable when you lower a vehicle with a full length torque arm. I don't care what the people trying to sell you a torque arm say. I measured mine before and after lowering the rear with a stock torque arm and measured no difference.
And while i recommend a rod end PHB for almost everyone just for the improvement in handling alone. They are not absolutely needed when lowering as long as your drop is moderate (an inch or so) and you're not running wider than stock tires.
And while i recommend a rod end PHB for almost everyone just for the improvement in handling alone. They are not absolutely needed when lowering as long as your drop is moderate (an inch or so) and you're not running wider than stock tires.
01-31-2007, 10:53 AM
#26
Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
I agree but the problem I have with that is, when you do springs and shocks you should also get an adj. panhard, adj. torque arm, and LCA relocation brackets to get your car adjusted where its supposed to be after its thrown out of whack.
Sure you can do just shocks first, but then you have to take it all apart again to do springs so you may as well do them both at the same time. And you could stop there and get used to them, but now you're driving with an out of adjustment rear-axle with the wrong pinion angle, LCA angle, and a panhard that can't adjust to the change.
Sure you can do just shocks first, but then you have to take it all apart again to do springs so you may as well do them both at the same time. And you could stop there and get used to them, but now you're driving with an out of adjustment rear-axle with the wrong pinion angle, LCA angle, and a panhard that can't adjust to the change.
And the change is pinion angle is so smal it's irrelevant. Most cars are set @ 0, and many go to -2 or -3 degrees when they adjust them, you don't get nearly that much change buy lowering the car, and certainly nowhere near U-joint damaging angles.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
