progressive rate springs?
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Do progrssive rate springs experience changing spring rates due to how fast and/or hard they're compressed? Or does their rates change in the same manner regardless of the forces acting on them?
How are progessive spring rates achieved? By having the spacing between coils change through the spring?
I ask in regards to QA1 rear coilovers which can be used with a variable(same thing as progressive?) spring rate of 100-200. I want to know how it varies. On hard launch is the spring rate less to allow weight transfer and harder on slower acting forces such as some cornering loads?
How are progessive spring rates achieved? By having the spacing between coils change through the spring?
I ask in regards to QA1 rear coilovers which can be used with a variable(same thing as progressive?) spring rate of 100-200. I want to know how it varies. On hard launch is the spring rate less to allow weight transfer and harder on slower acting forces such as some cornering loads?
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It's not so much a matter of how FAST the spring is compressed as it's how MUCH the spring is compressed.
The more a progressive spring compresses, the higher the rate it pushes back. A linear spring (say 300lbs) would exert 300lbs of force throughout the range of oscillation. A progressive spring (like the QA1 springs you mention) would exert 100lbs as the first coils compress, then exert progressively more force as more coils are compressed. In actuality, the softest coils are already compressed somewhat when the car is at rest, as the weight of the car has already "activated" them.
This is achieved by the spacing of the coils. The farther apart the coils, the softer the rate. Springs achieve their vertical oscillation through torsional (twisting) energy. As the coils compress, they get closer together.
Mark a point on a coil, then measure the outside diameter to that same spot on the next coil (around the outside of the spring). As you get to the coils that are farther apart, there is more distance to cover. Since the spring isn't as compressed in these areas, it doesn't take as much force to compress it.
It's all about converting energy. Whatever is compressing the spring is expelling kinetic energy to do so. That kinetic energy gets stored as potential energy in the spring. When the spring pushes back, that kinetic energy is being released. Remember Newton's First Law? For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.
-Mike
The more a progressive spring compresses, the higher the rate it pushes back. A linear spring (say 300lbs) would exert 300lbs of force throughout the range of oscillation. A progressive spring (like the QA1 springs you mention) would exert 100lbs as the first coils compress, then exert progressively more force as more coils are compressed. In actuality, the softest coils are already compressed somewhat when the car is at rest, as the weight of the car has already "activated" them.
This is achieved by the spacing of the coils. The farther apart the coils, the softer the rate. Springs achieve their vertical oscillation through torsional (twisting) energy. As the coils compress, they get closer together.
Mark a point on a coil, then measure the outside diameter to that same spot on the next coil (around the outside of the spring). As you get to the coils that are farther apart, there is more distance to cover. Since the spring isn't as compressed in these areas, it doesn't take as much force to compress it.
It's all about converting energy. Whatever is compressing the spring is expelling kinetic energy to do so. That kinetic energy gets stored as potential energy in the spring. When the spring pushes back, that kinetic energy is being released. Remember Newton's First Law? For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.
-Mike
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What, then would be the advantages of using a progressive rate spring vs. linear rate for road racing, drag, and street handling and vice versa?
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Progressive rate springs - when paired with adequate dampers (shocks) - generally offer better ride comfort. I say generally because it depends on several factors: shocks, rims, tire sidewall stiffness, swaybars, etc. The suspension on cars works as a system. This is why if you just change out the stock springs for higher rate lowering springs, but don't upgrade the shocks, the ride worsens tremendously. For the street, the idea is ride comfort. If your kidneys are sore after driving long distances, your suspension combination should be evaluated (or you need to re-cushion your seats).
For drag racing, the objective is weight transfer. You want the rearend to squat, then push the car forward. Any twisting motion should be minimized, as the energy wasted could have gone to acceleration, instead of twisting the car back to straight. This is where your torque arm, lower control arms, and rear swaybar help. The springs' job is to let the rearend squat without bottoming out. Generally, drag springs and shocks are softer, to aid in weight transfer.
For road racing, the objective is to minimize body roll and keep the wheels planted to the ground during a turn. Again, the energy wasted in rolling the car back to level should be minimized. Additionally, having a lower center of gravity aids in handling, so the springs tend to be shorter, but higher rate.
The progressive vs. linear argument is less about which type of spring is best for which application, and more about how the springs (and spring rates) interact with the other components in the suspension. You might see two road racers take different approaches, but get similar results. Maybe one uses a coilover kit with linear springs while the other uses progressive rate springs with adjustable shocks. As long as they know how to drive their cars and know how they will react in certain situations, there really isn't one setup that's better than the other.
Of course, this is all just information I've gathered while researching what components to buy for my own needs. If you REALLY want to know about road racing and suspension, go lurk at http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/. The bottom line is, you want to pick components that will work together for YOUR driving style and YOUR goals for the car. A call to Sam Strano's tech line might do you a lot of good when you're ready to buy parts. Just don't call him and ask for all kinds of advice, then buy from someone else. That's just shitty.
-Mike
For drag racing, the objective is weight transfer. You want the rearend to squat, then push the car forward. Any twisting motion should be minimized, as the energy wasted could have gone to acceleration, instead of twisting the car back to straight. This is where your torque arm, lower control arms, and rear swaybar help. The springs' job is to let the rearend squat without bottoming out. Generally, drag springs and shocks are softer, to aid in weight transfer.
For road racing, the objective is to minimize body roll and keep the wheels planted to the ground during a turn. Again, the energy wasted in rolling the car back to level should be minimized. Additionally, having a lower center of gravity aids in handling, so the springs tend to be shorter, but higher rate.
The progressive vs. linear argument is less about which type of spring is best for which application, and more about how the springs (and spring rates) interact with the other components in the suspension. You might see two road racers take different approaches, but get similar results. Maybe one uses a coilover kit with linear springs while the other uses progressive rate springs with adjustable shocks. As long as they know how to drive their cars and know how they will react in certain situations, there really isn't one setup that's better than the other.
Of course, this is all just information I've gathered while researching what components to buy for my own needs. If you REALLY want to know about road racing and suspension, go lurk at http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/. The bottom line is, you want to pick components that will work together for YOUR driving style and YOUR goals for the car. A call to Sam Strano's tech line might do you a lot of good when you're ready to buy parts. Just don't call him and ask for all kinds of advice, then buy from someone else. That's just shitty.
-Mike
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Bravo Mike. Well done sir!
Edit:
One correction:
You've got that flipped. The more coils in a given area (wire diameter, spring diameter and such being equal), the softer the spring will be. Consider a piece of spring wire that's not wound, it's just a metal pole standing straight up, it's very stiff (won't compress at all unless it kinks). As you add coils (and make them closer together), the spring becomes softer. Otherwise, you've taken very good notes and explained things quite well.
Edit:
One correction:
Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
This is achieved by the spacing of the coils. The farther apart the coils, the softer the rate. Springs achieve their vertical oscillation through torsional (twisting) energy. As the coils compress, they get closer together.
Mark a point on a coil, then measure the outside diameter to that same spot on the next coil (around the outside of the spring). As you get to the coils that are farther apart, there is more distance to cover. Since the spring isn't as compressed in these areas, it doesn't take as much force to compress it.
Mark a point on a coil, then measure the outside diameter to that same spot on the next coil (around the outside of the spring). As you get to the coils that are farther apart, there is more distance to cover. Since the spring isn't as compressed in these areas, it doesn't take as much force to compress it.
You've got that flipped. The more coils in a given area (wire diameter, spring diameter and such being equal), the softer the spring will be. Consider a piece of spring wire that's not wound, it's just a metal pole standing straight up, it's very stiff (won't compress at all unless it kinks). As you add coils (and make them closer together), the spring becomes softer. Otherwise, you've taken very good notes and explained things quite well.
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Actually, you don't want the rear end to squat much. The more it comes down the more energy you are losing that could have been used (by the suspension) to push down on the rear tires.
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Actually, you don't want the rear end to squat much. The more it comes down the more energy you are losing that could have been used (by the suspension) to push down on the rear tires.
However, I suspect that the soft rear spring approach works (even though it's not ideal) because the cars just land on the bumpstops. So, it takes a second to compress the spring (ok, a fraction of a second) and then you have pretty much a solid contact point (damped by the "non rebounding" 4th gen bumpstops, 3rd gens are rubber and will "bounce" when they hit the axle, the 4th gens are a high internal loss foam and they just make heat out of most of that energy). Again, this is my theory as to why the soft rear spring guys are still claiming it works so well (and I've seen results where it seems to work). I could always be wrong.
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Originally Posted by trackbird
You've got that flipped. The more coils in a given area (wire diameter, spring diameter and such being equal), the softer the spring will be. Consider a piece of spring wire that's not wound, it's just a metal pole standing straight up, it's very stiff (won't compress at all unless it kinks). As you add coils (and make them closer together), the spring becomes softer. Otherwise, you've taken very good notes and explained things quite well.
-Mike
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Originally Posted by trackbird
I agree with this and a proper drag suspension will lift the rear and not squat at all. That's due to the instant center that's built into the geometry of the rear in a proper drag setup.
However, I suspect that the soft rear spring approach works (even though it's not ideal) because the cars just land on the bumpstops. So, it takes a second to compress the spring (ok, a fraction of a second) and then you have pretty much a solid contact point (damped by the "non rebounding" 4th gen bumpstops, 3rd gens are rubber and will "bounce" when they hit the axle, the 4th gens are a high internal loss foam and they just make heat out of most of that energy). Again, this is my theory as to why the soft rear spring guys are still claiming it works so well (and I've seen results where it seems to work). I could always be wrong.
However, I suspect that the soft rear spring approach works (even though it's not ideal) because the cars just land on the bumpstops. So, it takes a second to compress the spring (ok, a fraction of a second) and then you have pretty much a solid contact point (damped by the "non rebounding" 4th gen bumpstops, 3rd gens are rubber and will "bounce" when they hit the axle, the 4th gens are a high internal loss foam and they just make heat out of most of that energy). Again, this is my theory as to why the soft rear spring guys are still claiming it works so well (and I've seen results where it seems to work). I could always be wrong.
Does anyone have a link to that website where all the manufacturers' spring rates are posted? I'm curious now.
-Mike
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
That's likely true. I know from watching people at the track, on TV, and talking to people in forums that "softer springs work better for drag racing". Maybe that's more a reference to the front springs?
Does anyone have a link to that website where all the manufacturers' spring rates are posted? I'm curious now.
-Mike
Does anyone have a link to that website where all the manufacturers' spring rates are posted? I'm curious now.
-Mike
Damn good post by the way. Thanks for the info!
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Per the discussion earlier in the thread, the rearend will want to squat, but it should be controlled. Blackhawk T/A and Trackbird are correct that this should be countered, though not at the expense of weight transfer. Are the springs you were suggested lowering springs? If so, that makes a lot of sense, as shorter springs are going to want to have a higher rate, to keep you from riding around on your bumpstops.
-Mike
-Mike
Last edited by chupr0kabra; 02-24-2007 at 08:17 PM. Reason: I KANT SPEL!
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They are the springs in a QA1 rear coilover from Hawk's Third Gen Parts. They're 2.5" i.d. coil-over springs. I assume i.d. means interior diameter? I don't know how long they are or if they're shorter than stock.
Last edited by eLTwerker; 02-24-2007 at 07:43 PM.
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Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
Per the discussion earlier in the thread, the rearend will want to squat, but it should be controlled. Blackhawk T/A and Trackbird are correct that this should be countered, though not at the expense of weight transfer. Are the springs you were suggested lowering springs? If so, that makes a lot of sense, as shorter springs are going to want to have a higher rate, to keep you from riding around on your bumpstops.
-Mike
-Mike
Or, do an experiment. Go get a bathroom scale. Grab something heavy. Stand on the scale and read the weight (you plus the heavy object). Then, rapidly lift that object over your head and watch the numbers on the scale. You'll see that the scale shows that you weigh more when you are lifting the object even though your total weight hasn't changed. By building a suspension that can lift the rear of the car upwards during the launch, you can put even more weight on the tires (during the launch event) and the car won't squat at all. That's why squat and a proper launch are not as related as many people assume.