fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Just like to see some comments about this setup. I use my t/a for daily driving but I just don't like the way it drives(stock). I haven't taken it to the strip yet but I dont plan on using it for that. I drag race on the street sometimes when I need to. I want it to be able to stick to the rid without alot of wheelhop. I don't know about you guys but when I corner hard I get some understeer. Heres what I've been thinking so far.

Hotchkis springs 1" drop
Koni's
UMI Bolt on relocation brackets
UMI non adjustable rear control arms(why would you need adjustable?)
UMI shock tower brace

I will most likely buy the Hotchkis and Koni's from Sam Strano. Also Sam if you see this message, whats the difference between the 740$ konis and the 848$ konis? I was also wondering about a sway bar but I don't know.

Demetri

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I'd have to know more about what it is you'd like to change about the way it drives. I know what I don't like, but I'm not you.

You may or may not need springs. Non-adjust LCA's will help the hopping, but the reason we like to use adjustables are: Non-adjusts bind the suspension in roll, and you can't compensate for the alignment of the rear axle--and they are never 100% perfectly straight. Adjustables solve both problems.

I'd have to say that LCA's would help. You might want brackets, but maybe not, that goes back to just what you don't like about how the car drives and while they help hop, they can also mess up balance. STB--if you want it, but handling wise it's not high on the list for me. Shocks, bars, springs are the big three.

The two sets of Koni's differ in price because the rears shocks aren't the same. Less money gets you shocks that have to be removed to be adjusted into one of 4 settings. More money gets you Koni's that are adjusted on the car, and don't have just the few detented settings. Both work well fwiw, just a matter of how easy/how much adjustment you want.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Well for one I think theres just too much bodyroll, also I don't like how when you press the brake that the whole car shifts toward the front. I don't care about looking good or stance or anything, I don't want it to be stiff to where I can feel a cigarette though. What I also don't like is when the car slides around a hard turn. I also want to hook up when I start from a dig.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Helps, but we'd need to talk. For instance. Shocks, bars, springs, some types of LCA's all have some effect on body-roll. And that's how suspensions are, a lot of overlapping things that we have to get right as a package.

dinols1z

I have Hotchkis springs in my car with Hotchkis LCA's, Sway's, Strut tower brace, & subframe connectors(welded). The car handles well. Maybe someone else can shime in on this, but if you want the car to hook wouldnt it be better to keep the stock springs and not getting lowering springs?

-Dino

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

I was thinking about not lowering. I was also thinking about the revalved bilsteins that Sam sells. Whats a good brand to buy for stock springs, since mine have 80,000 miles on them. The revalved bilsteins would save me a lot of money. How much different do you think there will be between the hotchkis and stock springs?

dinols1z

I think since you dont plan on Auto crossing, You should buy the revalved shocks from Strano.

IMO If I were you get the revalved bilsteins, LCA's, and Subframe connectors (welded) to help you get the car off the line, then to reduce body roll get some Sway bars.

-Dino

Greggy

the stock springs you have right now should be fine, unless they are broken or sagging or something...save the money for the rest of your parts (koni's or revalves...).

Lowering springs will help prevent the brake dive and help a bit in the roll department, but spinning on launch will be a little easier. I have no wheelhop with stock wheels, stock LCA's and sticky street tires..unless it rains out??, but that was with a mostly stock setup..I'm not sure if I still get wheel hop when wet. It has not happened since I made some changes.

A good performance alignment, balanced bars, and tire pressures will fix any understeer condition.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Don't the revalves leak after a while?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

WHAT? Where did you hear that?

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

One obvious need of change is shocks. I would either get koni sa's or bilstein revalves from Sam. Start with shocks with stock springs and give that a try for a year and see how you like them.

Swaybars will help prevent a bit of body roll. I would go with either of the Strano or Hotchkis front 35mm hollow bars, along with a 21mm solid rear bar or 22mm hollow rear bar. The 35mm suspension techniques solid front bar may be cheaper, but is way heavier than the hollow bars and provides the same rigidity. Your lookin at 15 or 20 lbs less with a hollow bar. This won't fully eliminate body roll, but a little body roll is good to have for balancing out the car's handling.

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Bilstein revalves from Strano 530.00
UMI adjustable rear control arms 180.00
UMI shock tower brace 79.99

790

Not bad considering that konis cost this much. How's this setup sound for now? Also Sam, you say you sell UMI products so I will probably be ordering this setup from you soon.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

I do sell UMI. FWIW, the rear arms are $169, not $180.

I can't give anything a 100% pass until we talk and I can get a better feel for what you don't like about the car. I don't think this plan is any way bad, I just want to make sure it's appropriate for what you want to change.