Pics of my drop....NEED HELP
03-22-2007, 12:56 AM
#26
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whats wrong with my springs? ive been looking at peoples cars with the prokit and they seem to be at the same height as mine.....
Also Konis are a little to expensive for my tastes....will KYB work or Bilstien?
would it help if I took the spacer out and trimmed the bumpstops?
Also Konis are a little to expensive for my tastes....will KYB work or Bilstien?
would it help if I took the spacer out and trimmed the bumpstops?
Last edited by my01ws6; 03-22-2007 at 01:09 AM.
03-22-2007, 09:24 PM
#29
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On a serious note, go seek out Sam Strano. Send him an email or call him up. You obviously have a really strange problem that no one understands and that's why you aren't getting any answers. This is the wrong place to ask these questions. Sam knows the ins and outs about fbody suspension. Give him a call he will help you.
03-23-2007, 12:54 AM
#30
Replace those rear bumpstops for the long tapered ones (pic below) and throw those spacers in the trash. The bumpstops you have are very stiff. That should help a lot in the rear. The other thing is spring rate. If the rear springs are too soft it will hits the stops pretty hard. Going to a firmer spring will improve handling and reduce bottoming out. Good shocks will also slow down the suspension travel and make the contact with the bumpstops softer.
Pretty much all that goes for the front's as well. The stock Decarbons use a very short and firm bumpstop. Switching to a better shock will slow the rate of travel and will also come with better more progressive bumpstops. A firmer spring up front will also keep the bumpstop contact minimized.
Keep in mind these cars are always contacting the bumpstops even when stock.
Pretty much all that goes for the front's as well. The stock Decarbons use a very short and firm bumpstop. Switching to a better shock will slow the rate of travel and will also come with better more progressive bumpstops. A firmer spring up front will also keep the bumpstop contact minimized.
Keep in mind these cars are always contacting the bumpstops even when stock.
03-23-2007, 01:43 AM
#31
There's not much you can do about trimming the bumpstops in the front suspension as they are part of the shock assembly, so you'll simply have to slow down for rough & uneven surfaces. However, as Jason pointed out, go with the tapered LT1 style rear bumpstops and ditch the spacers and that should significantly improve the ride. My car has the tapered bumpstops without spacers and it's got about 2" of travel before it bottoms out. Even when it does bottom out, it's not harsh at all... tells me to take it easy without sending the rear axle crashing into the trunk 
.
BTW, my car NEVER bottomed out with stock suspension but I recently lowered it with Intrax springs. Not only does it sit even lower than cars with Eibach Sportlines, but it actually rides smoother with less oscillation now, that too with the crappy factory deCarbons. I suspect these springs have a much higher spring rate than stock. Regardless, railroad crossings are still pretty traumatic, so I know the stock shocks are not up to the task of controlling the suspension within its extremly limited range of travel. Moral of the story, you can go low, but not without the right shock.
. BTW, my car NEVER bottomed out with stock suspension but I recently lowered it with Intrax springs. Not only does it sit even lower than cars with Eibach Sportlines, but it actually rides smoother with less oscillation now, that too with the crappy factory deCarbons. I suspect these springs have a much higher spring rate than stock. Regardless, railroad crossings are still pretty traumatic, so I know the stock shocks are not up to the task of controlling the suspension within its extremly limited range of travel. Moral of the story, you can go low, but not without the right shock.
03-23-2007, 02:45 AM
#32
well it sounds like for some reason you do not want to change your springs, if thats the case than maybe it would be a good idea to get drag bags that way you can add a up to an inch in height or just inflate them enough so it will assist you suspension and you will never bottom out, they are made by airlift and yo can find em on jegs or summit for 80 bucks, i have them on my car..... i can bet that those are factory cut springs
03-23-2007, 08:11 PM
#33
Check out the other 2 or 3 threads he's opened on this issue. Sam and a bunch of others has already giving him tons of suggestions. His rear springs are obviously sagging and weak and need to be replaced but he doesn't want to hear that. He doesn't need to waste anymore of Sam's time. 
Originally Posted by z28bryan
On a serious note, go seek out Sam Strano. Send him an email or call him up. You obviously have a really strange problem that no one understands and that's why you aren't getting any answers. This is the wrong place to ask these questions. Sam knows the ins and outs about fbody suspension. Give him a call he will help you.
03-23-2007, 08:49 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Jeep_junkie
However, as Jason pointed out, go with the tapered LT1 style rear bumpstops and ditch the spacers and that should significantly improve the ride.
BTW, my car NEVER bottomed out with stock suspension.
BTW, my car NEVER bottomed out with stock suspension.
Also, your car HAS bottomed out with the stock suspension. They all do whether you realize it or not.
03-23-2007, 10:20 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by HavATampa
Check out the other 2 or 3 threads he's opened on this issue. Sam and a bunch of others has already giving him tons of suggestions. His rear springs are obviously sagging and weak and need to be replaced but he doesn't want to hear that. He doesn't need to waste anymore of Sam's time.
My rear springs are fine...all of my springs are fine...I checked them last weekend...from what I can tell I have the prokit....
and the only suggestions that were made were RAISE IT BACK UP TO STOCK...or....YOU CANT BE THAT LOW....I see TA's all over around here in KC that are this low and even lower....I seriously doubt all those people would drive in that car if it rode like mine does....
and thanks for your useless post....all it did for me was take up space
03-23-2007, 10:57 PM
#36
Originally Posted by my01ws6
My rear springs are fine...all of my springs are fine...I checked them last weekend.
What you can try in the rear is adding those twist in metal spacers. They are 1" and will raise the rear a little bit, but mainly they will increase the springrate. Both things will help you stay off the bumpstops. Tey are easy to install, cheap and easy to remove if you don't like them.
03-24-2007, 01:09 AM
#38
It's hard to say for sure, but probably about 3/8"-1/2". The longer bumpstops will help as well as the tips are softer and the rate increases as they are compressed. Your current ones are blunt and stiff. When you hit them, you really feel it.
03-24-2007, 01:19 AM
#39
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LoL yeah tell me about it....I dont think imma try those metal springs spacesr....Ok well my plan is to remove the spacers, then buy the different bumpstops....see how it rides then replace the shocks....
What shocks do you guys reccomend? I dont want the cheapest but I dont want the most expensive either....KYB? Bilstien?
If in fact i find out after I replace the shocks that my springs are shot I will replace my springs with the prokit or something similar from Sam....
What shocks do you guys reccomend? I dont want the cheapest but I dont want the most expensive either....KYB? Bilstien?
If in fact i find out after I replace the shocks that my springs are shot I will replace my springs with the prokit or something similar from Sam....
03-24-2007, 03:16 AM
#40
I'd definetly get the Bilsteins over the KYB's.
Didn't you say you already have the Prokit springs?
Oh well, I'd just get some facotry rear springs from the slavage yard and trim about 1 coil off the top and try them with and without the isolater. The isolator adds about 3/4" or so. Removing one coil should increase the spring rate from 115 to 135 which will help prevent hitting the bumpstops. The increased spring rate will also improve the handling. I typically run between 160lb and 170lb/inch rear rates. I also modded my bumpstops to allow about 1" extra travel. It really helps to smooth out the ride.
Didn't you say you already have the Prokit springs?
Oh well, I'd just get some facotry rear springs from the slavage yard and trim about 1 coil off the top and try them with and without the isolater. The isolator adds about 3/4" or so. Removing one coil should increase the spring rate from 115 to 135 which will help prevent hitting the bumpstops. The increased spring rate will also improve the handling. I typically run between 160lb and 170lb/inch rear rates. I also modded my bumpstops to allow about 1" extra travel. It really helps to smooth out the ride.