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Sway bar or LCA

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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #1  
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Default Sway bar or LCA

Just put LCA and Relo on and all of a sudden I have a lot of *** end swaying oversteer. Is this normal. Do most modded cars end up with oversteer and what is the fix. I was considering either a bushing removal or front sway bar removal or a bigger rear sway to help launch and 60ft but both of those changes will probably make the oversteer really crazy on lane changes. Any ideas or thoughts?
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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if the lca's are lowered below level at the axle this changes the geometry in a way that can lead to oversteer. Make sure you are not below level. Larger front and rear bars...say 35/22mm as well as other parts can help keep the front and rear geometry in check. What is the rest of your suspension and what else do you like and not like about it? That will really help to get the info, you may want.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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Unhappy Rear end sway

I get this too . At about 100 the rear end starts " Speed wobble ".
I thought the idea of the brackets were too change the angle . Am I misunderstanding ?
I have the Granatelli control arms . I notice about a 1/16 inch of slop from side to side when the car is sitting level if I try and shake them . I was going to try and shim them with a washer and see if that makes a dif.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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me too, and my LCAs are granatelli, im going to check for slack... im going to be pissed if there is.
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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If you grab the arm next to the bolt on either end and shake it back and forth you can get movment , I'm wondering if between the two LCA's this is enough to get this rear end shake .
I'm going to try putting a thick washer on one side of the control arm and see if that takes up the slack . If it does I'll take it out and see if it eliminates the shake .
I have read in some other threads about the differeance in the bolt hole sizes . The USA made being 1/2 inch holes and the brackets on the car being 12 mm .
It seems to me that this would be fore to aft shake though . The posts talked about a "clunk" not a wobble .
Any one else got any ideas ?
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 02:26 AM
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^^^^I have the same problem and that is what I plan to do. Hopefully that will elimate the sway. It makes sence that the rear actually wiggles and causes the sway. Let us know if that fixs it.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Greggy
if the lca's are lowered below level at the axle this changes the geometry in a way that can lead to oversteer. Make sure you are not below level. Larger front and rear bars...say 35/22mm as well as other parts can help keep the front and rear geometry in check. What is the rest of your suspension and what else do you like and not like about it? That will really help to get the info, you may want.
Front sus is stock SS. Rear is LCA rod/poly with relo brackets on 275/40/17 Nitto which loosened the rear which im calling oversteer. Then added 15" prostar with 26/11.50/15 ET Street bias and rs airbag. This increased the feeling. No other changes and im working on launching and traction. As far as level LCA i thought the idea of relo brackets was to lower the axle end to increase bite or hook. So how does changes to my front & rear sway bars affect my car??
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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Every action has a re-action. And if this is the Rick I think it is (Pittsburgh???), this is precisely why I was so adamant about making one change at a time and not wholesale changes. And you are learning about suspension geometry and why we don't want the LCA's tail down (best for traction in a straight line) where we want stability.

I will say that given your other thread, I'm concerned the adjustment done to the LCA length was not correct. If that's off the car will not be happy.

The car didn't do this before, it is now. You only changed those parts, so you need to re-examine the install. Adding more parts now is not the answer, and won't help (remembing all the rest of the hasn't changed and it never did this before).
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 03:48 PM
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Again with the good advice Sam. I just thought the looseness happened to everyone and it was the price for hooking, but as we discussed, the problem from the other post is a mechanic error or variable that needs to be eliminated before I can move forward. I called the service mgr. he was a little hesitant but said to stop in tomorrow and talk to the mechanic about the brackets. This should be interesting since he thinks the bracket can only go in one way. Ill let you know the outcome.
Thanks again Sam
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 04:33 PM
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There's 2 holes in the relocation brackets. If you want stabilty when you lower the car, you use the top most hole to make the LCA's level. If you want stronger straight line acceleration, use the bottom hole and the LCA will be lower at the rear than the front. Compomises. Make sense?
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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But there are other issues (Rick called me). The LCA brackets are not welded on correctly. One is so far off one LCA had to be lengthened significantly to keep the wheel roughly in the center of the wheel opening..... and this was after the first attempt to weld the bracket and it broke off on the street and banged the wheel into the body.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Ahh, I understand now.
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