JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

The correct procedure for bleeding involves starting at the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and working your way to the closest to the MS. I'm not sure of the technical details, but this has always been the correct way to make sure all the air bubbles are removed from the lines.

LightEmUpLs1, in your case since you replaced the fluid, not going in the proper order probably means you did not get all the old fluid out.

2 inches sounds like quite a bit of travel. Not pumping the brakes, does it feel firm when you first step on it to stop the car? It sounds like you may have a little air in it, but I'm not sure.

I'm assuming you aren't familiar with bedding in the brakes. Just drive the car normally until that zinc or whatever is gone. Then drive out to the freeway or whatever nice long road you have nearby when there is little to no traffic. Use the brakes normally to get there so they are already a little hot and up to temperature. Then get out on the road and go up to 60 mph then hit the breaks firmly and slow down to about 10mph, but don't stop. Accelerate back up to 60 again and do this a total of 4 times. On the 4th and last stop accelerate back up the limit and just drive without using the brakes to let them cool down. A good 10-15 minutes if possible.

What this does is cause the pad material contacting the rotor to literally melt and leave a thin deposit of brake pad material in the pores of the iron rotor. From this point it is like brake pad on brake pad somewhat and the braking should be better. Now some pads take more heat than others, but your pads are not high heat units so I'm thinking 4 good stops should do it. If you can smell the brakes then they probably got hot enough.

After you do this, come back and tell us how they feel.

firebirdman469

iTrader: (3)

I am having the same problem. I bled my brakes the way you all suggest, but they are still spongy. I bedded in the brakes when I first got them installed but still no luck. I have done this process before on many cars but it isn't working for some reason. I am wondering if the reservoir went too dry when I took my calipers off?

For the power bleeding of the ABS, how much does it cost? and will any dealership use the fluid you bring?

I decided to call a nearby Tuffy Service Center, they quoted me $59.99 for a power bleed, but they refused to use my ATE Super Blue Fluid....WTF

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Bedding in the brakes isn't going to effect the pedal. I'm sorry if I didn't make that clear. It is only going to effect the way the pads grab.

As far as the pedal feels, that's mainly down to bleeding and the mechanical parts.

I haven't had to bleed my ABS block so I can't you much there.

ramairracer

iTrader: (13)

i work at moritz chevy on the west side, a tech 2 will bleed any air present in the bpmv, and if you ran the rsiovur (sp) low near empty then added your new fluid and never bled them again ithink thats your problem you let air back into the system and now it has some again, , if you need anymore help pm me i may be able to help, oh heres what i drive, look familiar?